The Pikey

you know the metal ones they glue the dash on the passenger side. thanks Jason

Thought that might have been you Guy Thanks for not mentioning I had the half hood up on a summers evening Jason

0.94...

The two Steves set them at 37 thou Jason

I'd present your car without doors, remove the hinges too as the are a fail and then fit the standard CC parts to the stanchions for IVA. After you can take them off and fit whatever you like. There must be loads of sets of these std parts in members garages who would be willing to lend you them. Jason

Antex are OK but Weller are better. I have various Weller irons but the one I use most of the time is this one it's not cheap but worth every penny. Also whatever you get make sure you get real lead/tin solder and lots of spare tips because as soon as the chrome or whatever the coating is wears off you work will become dull. Jason

I don't think the MT75 goes up a Caterham Tunnel. I also doubt the 6 spd Mazda gearbox would either :-(

Looks like the MX5 had a shift pattern like it on their 5 speed boxes. J

Might be but I'm thinking if they have changed what box they use then it would be for something more modern and readily available. J

Just looking at the Caterham 40th anniversary edition and it looks like the shift pattern is not the same as the type 9 gearboxes. It has reverse below 5th instead of left and up. Anyone know what box is being used? here Jason

Don't you just use the two holes for the stanchions and longer bolts? I guess you have a aeroscreen and only one hole each side?

The seller told me they may have imperfections

Bruce did tell me that the company that made the aluminium which was pre coated in that leather look they made the dash and inner skins out of went bust. I think the latest is a special powder coating which has a texture to it. So, it's not a problem getting a plain one. Jason

Hi Kev I've fitted two Cartek isolators. It works by cutting the negative connection to the battery and a positive connection to the ECU. The isolator could do with being fitted close to the negative side of the battery and a short lead goes between the large bolt on the isolator and the negative terminal of the battery. The isolator needs to be fitted to a good ground and as everything I could find to fasten it to on the 7 was aluminium which means the starter current would be running though rivets I also ran a lead from one of the six mounting bolts to a good chassis ground. The other two terminals should cut the ECU, on mine one wire came from the battery positive and the other went straight to the purple ECU wire which normally connects to the battery positive along with the one (or two) brown wires. Jason

are you moving the wheel backwards or forwards?

Phil have you tried the ones Carl sells? They are a million times better than standard. Jason

The fog should be on with both the dipped and main beam lights but not the sides. If it don't then you will fail IVA so I guess if the MOT man noticed it you would fail that too. Jason Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 4 May 2013 20:19:20

From memory there are only two pin connections on the rear of the switch but there are also two spades on the sides for the illumination. Edited to add link to switch pic Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 1 May 2013 22:55:48

That is defiantly the rubber cracking. I would change it now. Jason

I drilled one rivet out and drilled another hole in the chassis for the other. I also bonded it on with Silkaflex. Take care not to centralise the bracket as I seem to remember it needs to be offset to allow the bottle to miss the cruciform. Jason

or buy 20 on Ebay for 99p 20 for 99p

It's a voltage drop due to current draw. With the fog light in the on position (and headlamps if you need them on to activate the fog??) run a wire from the chassis somewhere to the negative side of the lamp, if it lights up you know it's a bad earth. If it don't then you know it's the poss side at fault. If the lamp didn't light up then I'd cut an inch off the red/blue? wire at the lamp end,reconnect and try again. If that didn't work then see if the switch is at fault by pulling the plug off the bridging the two contacts, if that lights the lamp the switch is at fault. If that fails to sort it, run a long wire from the other wire on switch plug red/orange? directly to the red/blue terminal on the fog lamp. If that works then the wire if broke between the switch and lamp. Jason

They dropped to 240k a few years ago but they are now up to around 300k for an average spec one.

Phil yes still about. See you at Stoneleigh J

Caterham have millions (well 1442) standard metric wheel nuts in stock. here Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 26 Apr 2013 14:44:09