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The Pikey

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Everything posted by The Pikey

  1. 2005 helmet sold to Dave. 2010 helmet still available unless Danny confirms he wants it. Jason Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 2 May 2014 13:59:08
  2. Racelidz Snell SA2010 helmet used for one trackday and hoon about at Curborough. Perfect condition size XL £90.00 collect from Stoneleigh. Racelidz Snell SA2005 helmet size large. more used than the one above, the Kevlar strap is a little grubby but other than that it's unmarked. £60.00 collect from Stoneleigh. SOLD Dave Momo race suit in blue. Momo size 58. I'm 5'10" 42' chest and a perfect fit. It's in really good condition. Not sure what the spec is but this is what is wrote on the back. " Standard 8856-200, RS.023.02, FIA, year of manufacturer 2005. Also on a different label Nomex 111 27% Vicose Visil 27% mobacrilic 18% polyacrilonitail 28% Then an a big label EOEO. Hope that tells someone what it is. Condition wise it's not faded, perfectly clean. Looks like it cost a fortune new. £100.00 collect from Stoneleigh. I will be at the show only on the Monday morning but I live only 1/2 a mile from Stoneleigh so collection on Sunday is OK too. Jason Edited by - jason fletcher on 2 May 2014 09:53:54 Edited by - jason fletcher on 2 May 2014 13:58:37
  3. The Pikey

    Understeer help

    I think adjustable platforms are the way to go. Or a nice set of Nitrons 🥰 🥰 ... Sorry..
  4. The Pikey

    Understeer help

    you need to measure at the rear of the wishbone. The rear wants be be 15mm higher going by the book. I found when using a LSD it needed another 5mm. Jason Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 13 Mar 2014 21:04:31
  5. The Pikey

    Understeer help

    Are the front wishbones parallel to the floor and is the rear 15mm higher than the front measured between the the chassis and floor under the rear of the lower front wishbone and between the chassis and floor where the rear wheel arch meets the body? I'd set to the above and if no good raise the rear about 5mm and see how it go's. J
  6. I think the type of plug you are looking for will look just like the one that plugs into the rad fan (two female spades one up and one across) I'm guessing the one have is an econseal type? I would pull the wood forward floor out and see if it's under there. J
  7. I think you will find thats a plug for a raised brake light which would explain why it's not live.
  8. What colour are the wires you have located?
  9. I'd go direct to Webcon here Jason
  10. Ah right. I'm still thinking that a structural polyurethane from a car body shop would work well but Hysol 9462 will also do a good job of this. The Hysol would work even better if the aly angle had a series of holes down it's length. Jason
  11. Guy What is that shape and size of that parts you are gluing. i had it in my mind you were gluing sheet to sheet for reason. Alternatively I have a Henkle product here called Hysol 9462 which we could glue a test piece if you are passing my way. Jason Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 2 Feb 2014 08:43:31
  12. Is epoxy really the best adhesive to use? Unless there is a really good key the epoxy won't stick to aluminium too well and also normal epoxy don't like heat. I think I would be seeing if a contact adhesive like Thixothix would work better. Jason
  13. It's yours then. I live right next to Race Retro so I'll get it home and you can collect it then. Jason
  14. this is bottle is years old and from the time where you could just exchange them like Calor gas bottle. I guess they still own the bottle but no there is no rental on it. Anyway I'm giving it away not selling so if BOC want to come and get it then fine by me :-)
  15. FOC to anyone who want to collect it from Banbury. It's the one thats about 4ft tall. Jason
  16. The Pikey

    Hayabusa SV

    Sorry that car was sold a few years ago. Jason
  17. I have half a 5l can here but I'm in kenilworth. You can have it FOC if you are passing but I wouldn't want to post it. Jason
  18. The Pikey

    Hayabusa SV

    Sorry I'll explain better.. The BWM cush drive used by Nova is not designed to make good the bad angle that we seem to have to fit the Busa engine in at. When running the cush drive is constantly getting bent in and out at it rotates. If it's a long drive it generates heat and soon fails. There are a few pics still on locost builders from when I did my install but not much that will show where the problem is. Pics here Jason Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 26 Jan 2014 18:40:47
  19. The Pikey

    Hayabusa SV

    when I did mine I used a SPA dash and the stock Busa ECU. It was really easy to figure out what wires went to the SPA dash so the rev counter etc worked. If you use the Busa ECU then you need to make a plug up to connect to the Busa dash for engine diagnostics if needed. My experience showed that due to the angle the nova cush drive fails on long drives in a S3. It's perfect for sprints but melts on track days and long journeys. Jason
  20. The Pikey

    Hayabusa SV

    Quoting charlie_pank: I can't remember having any issue with the diff flange on the Bailley Morris TRT. I'm pretty sure it went in after the diff. I certainly didn't have to bend the chassis to make it fit. I've made do without reverse so far, I still don't feel the need for it. IIRC the Hyabusa and all the gubbins is nearly as heavy as a K-series and only 180hp... more torque than other BECs though. I've never built a SV but I'm 110% sure that on a DD S3 the prop has to go in before the diff. K8 onwards Busa are 200bhp and they proper rock! J
  21. The Pikey

    Hayabusa SV

    Quoting timbo: Hi Jason, The Bailey Morris prop should not require any chassis bending. The OD of the rear resilient tube is no greater than the OD of the diff flange if I recall on the megabusa. Hmmm Have you a picture or link to the ARCH gear lever set up... As I too much prefer the gear lever control. I was planning to obtain the westfield kit and modify to suit. yes the diff flange is way bigger than the TRT outer tube but the flange won't go thorough the chassis either which is why it needs fitting before the diff. My chassis certainly needed tweaking to get it in. Maybe they do different sizes? Sorry no pics of the gear lever but it very nice. I've had three new chassis's from Arch. Two came via CC and every time CC tried to make have a metric version. It's never a 6 month month wait. I bet if you spoke to Bruce he would say 4-5 weeks tops. You can then get the removable diagonals and use the left mounting points for the engine mounts and the right one goes back in after the engine is fitted. J
  22. The Pikey

    Hayabusa SV

    oh and specify no exhaust cutout either and make sure the washer bottle mount is not fitted.
  23. The Pikey

    Hayabusa SV

    Quoting timbo: thinking of next 7 project. Am no stranger to the hayabusa. lots of questions folks. Has anyone built a SV hayabusa? If I was factory ordering a chassis what you request the factory make additions to on the chassis if at all possible. What is the highest ratio BMW diff? Am trying to avoid a proposhaft reverse transfer box as they are generally sho"te. Reverse alternatives? As anyone used the TRT cush drive adapter on the output flange. My last had the 2 piece centre flange Bailey Morris resilient tube. Any advantage? Gear change set up - still like the idea of a lever system. Anyone other applications? Mine was a S3 but I guess the changes will be the same. Short passenger footwell uprated diff supports Removable diagonals in engine bay (don't forget these otherwise the engine won't go in) Bonnet without louvers to allow to be cut out for filter I used a quaife reverse box, it was crap. I have seen the MNR version and it certainly looks the nuts with no backlash at all. If you use a TRT rear prop shaft then you have to spread the chassis apart by the diff. Sounds drastic but a neat job can be done with a scissor jack. Be careful of the angle of the engine. I used Force racing engine mounts and these put the engine at a to big angle to the cush drive disintegrated on long runs because of heat build up over the period. Previous to me, their mounts had only been used on sprint cars where they worked fine. The second owner fitted a UJ in place of the cush and said it was fine. You have the extra width with your SV so this should help anyway. I like the gear lever that Arch do, like all their stuff it's very well designed. I did spend a fortune on proshift paddles and a Flatshifter but on the road it was crap. Check Ebay for the 3.12. There is a guy on Eastern Europe selling them a a decent price and seems the get good feedback. Jason
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