The Pikey

bound to be a dodgy hazard switch I'd say. J

I think the CC one is the best. It's produced by Tillett in a two part mould for them and it's really thin and lightweight. Also the holes are cut for whatever standard switch gear and clocks you are using.

If the clutch is lines up properly then really it should just slide in without much effort. You haven't got a short raceline belhousing and a normal long input shaft gearbox have you? Jason

Simon can you tell me what the date stamp is on the tyres please? Jason

Quoting SKC: Hi Menacy and Jason, Thanks for your replies to this thread. I have spent a lot of time and money developing my business and the products that we sell. I am sure you will therefore understand that I am not going to print on this or any other forum the specifications or components used to achieve the performance levels we market. I am however more than willing to accept orders from each of you should you wish to purchase products from us. Regards SKC Maybe it's just me but I'm not too impressed by that post. This is a club forum where members help members and topics are put up for discussion just like menacy did. You then post on the thread in a way that tells everyone you are in business doing this stuff. And then when someone asks what needs changing inside the engine you act as if this is some sort of black art and you are the only one who has ever bolted a Rotrex to a Duratec. It's a club forum you know, not a shop window. Jason Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 12 Aug 2013 00:46:16

Quoting SKC: Hi Dennis, What level of performance are you looking for? If you're looking for something over about 280bhp then the costs start to get expensive. The engine needs uprated components, then there's the cost of the super charger, Regards SKC SKC so if you wanted a 270-280 bhp supercharged 2.0D what would need uprating inside? Would it need porting to get to that power? are std pistons ok? J Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 11 Aug 2013 14:41:19

test

The ECU sends a negative feed to the relay when it wants the fan on. This flicks the relay on which sends a positive feed to the fan. The negative for the fan comes from the bunch of negatives bolted to the chassis under the nosecone. The ON/OFF temps are set in the ECU so you will need the interface from SBD to access this. When the fan is supposed to be on it pops up on the laptop. Thats how it works on mine anyway.. Jason

I'd used Evostick contact adhesive.

I think as long as the anaerobic you choose is one that stays flexible when cured then it would be fine as would RTV.

I also think it might be the relay. Either that or the fuse, the wiring to the fan or the fan of course. I am 99% sure the sigma use the MBA ECU to switch the relay when required so there is no fan switch on the rad.

I just made my engine number up using my initials, date of birth and the year I put the engine together. Went through IVA fine. J

you know what I mean 😬

I'd consider buying an input shaft off them and seeing if it can be modified by measuring exactly how much of the splines are needed for your install. If it looks like a goer then send them the modified shaft to built your box with. J

I wouldn't worry about the warranty as I hear they don't offer one... 😳

Don't they do a short input shaft version then? If not would it be possible to shorten a long input shaft like Phil at R&R does for the 6 speed?

Campden Rd near Long Marston about 7.45 this morning. Nice morning for a blat Dave Jason

What about the relay in the fuse box under the dash, does that click too? If not then there is either a problem with the wiring to or from the switch or the relay itself J

I think your immobiliser is working as the light has gone off. From memory they light flashes slowly when armed, quickly when ignition is on and it's waiting to read the fob and when the immobiliser is off so is the light off. There won't be any noises from the fuel pump if the inertia switch is disconnected. Personally I would take the two white/red wires off the starter and bridge across the big battery+ connection and where the you took the red/white wires off to see if the starter is works, be careful as there will be quite a spark when you touch the wire on the terminal. Then I would check the relay under the dash to see if it's in place and clicking when you press the button and then the fuse. If there is no click from the relay then scuttle off I'm afraid. Jason

Mine is perfect. How much out is it? jason

Agreed, as said wish I had gone the Omex route. It is not over complicated and works very well indeed in our uncomplicated installs. Jason

Quoting charlie_pank: I'm going to be controversial slightly deliberately Save your money, buy a low-spec kit/car and learn to drive it. Upgrade over time as your spannering and driving skills improve... maybe a valid point but Greg could be a stunning driver already and feels spending another 5-10k now is better than spending 10-15k later on the same stuff? Jason Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 10 Jul 2013 21:04:11

Sorry, I should have marked it sold

I used MBE but if I did it again I'd go with Omex. Jason

I have a Bushnell 3-9x40 mil dot telescopic sight for sale. I bought it new and was only used for one tin of pellets before I sold the rifle. It was on a pre charged rifle so it's had a easy life. It's boxed and really does look completely unused and new.For some reason I have not got the lens caps but the glass is perfect too. £40 plus post.