The Pikey

I bought the car with std brakes then buy the big brake kit. You will also need to buy different rear pads. You have brand new front callipers, disks and rear pads to sell. I would not go with Caterhams QR column, I'd go with the Rapfix version with a Caterham column then get the Momo of your choice. The Rapfix does not start to wobble after 100 miles, are a lot easier to get on and off. Again you have the std Mountney wheel and column to sell after IVA. You want a LSD but I'd only want a Titan and I'm not sure what CC are selling at the mo. Weather kit, sell the silly roof (CC gave me £200 credit for mine) buy a half hood. Trackday roll bar. The std one isn't worth it's scrap value so no point in getting the TD one from the parts desk. Personally I would have the carbon dash but that just for bling and I like bling If you only listen to one thing then let it be this, buy the "R" !!! You will not regret it and it will save you money in the long run. Jason

As the exhaust is on the right some but not all of the heat could be coming in through the peday box cover. I found that by sealing the cover on with foam tape the heat was reduced. You can also line the tunnel and footwell with heat reflective blanket but this is a paint in the 🙆🏻 to do with the engine and box in. Jason

You could fit a relay along with a new switch. Only a five min job to wire up. Jason

Defiantly 10.9 grade as Ian says. I always try and get quality bolts for critical areas. Normally a branded or at least one with the makers initials on the head thinking there is more chance of them making a quality bolt if they are putting their name on it. Jason

Anyone fitted one of these to a Imperial chassis? Jason

I had 4 degrees on my Busa cush drive. I only had it a while and changed it once. The second owner changed two or three in only a few miles. He drove it a lot harder and faster than I did. In the end he fitted a U.J in place of it and I think it was perfect after that. Jason

Might be worth editing the Ebay description/title to include "Zetec SE" as thats what they are called in tintop land. Jason Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 23 Jun 2013 20:24:27

Adam if you knew that it wanted oil then I'm sure you did. I can't remember doing mine either but as I know to do it I'm sure I did. A bit like I can't remember tightening the conrod bolts or oiling the rings but I'm sure I did if that makes sense Let us know what the problem was when you get to the bottom of it. Jason

I'm surprised the oil seal is gone after 1700 miles. Was it new when it went in? Was the plastic tool used to fit the seal? Did the seal have engine oil rubbed around it before fitting? As for the clutch plate, I would not consider putting the old one back in. Jason

Jon a metric one will also fit an imperial chassis. You just need some washers/spacers to drop in the holes in the chassis as the threaded boss thing is shorter on metric versions. Other than that they are the same. Jason

about 16.20 ish today. Jason

. Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 7 Jun 2013 20:13:26

Oz thanks for the offer but if this one is no longer in the garage then I'll need the cash to spend on something else to keep my busy Advert now on Pistonheads. J

courtesy of Paul Seymour there is a pic here As soon as the sun starts to shine I'll get it out, do some pics and bung it on Pistonheads. J

Ben yes Arch still make the CSR. If they didn't then I would not be interested in the slightest. Arch offerings are 🥰 😶‍🌫️ The other crowds stuff makes me As far as upgrading the chassis on the current one, I can't think of many parts that would cross over other than the lights! J

Ben to be honest the real NEED is to find something new to do. I can't improve on the one I have for sale and I have a few ideas for the CSR engine and want a challenge. So just an itch that needs scratching really J

thanks for the comments guys Lets see if anyone comes up with the wedge, if not I'll keep it. But I really NEED a CSR. Looking for a abused nail but there aren't many about at the moment. J

. Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 30 May 2013 09:59:44

. Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 29 May 2013 21:01:41

. Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 29 May 2013 21:01:25

While waiting for the sun to shine so I can get some pics took for Pistonheads I thought I'd offer the car on here just in case anyone is interested. P/Ex for a knacked CSR if there is such a thing... Likely to be one of the best 7's about and looks better than new. Cost me a fortune to build and has done 2500 miles. For details on registration call 07766312700 Reg number F18 LAT (F1 8LAT) included Imperial Chassis: Removable diagonal braces in engine bay Uprated diff supports Watts Linkage Wide track Aero Wishbones Nitron dampers with Eibach springs Uprated front Brakes Uprated master cylinder Uprated rear brake pads Heater Lowered floors powder coated Side skins powder coated in engine bay Fuel tank protection Aero fuel cap Stack dash Superlight switch gear Lowered MOG headlamp brackets Freestyle Adjustable front roll bar Rear anti roll bar Track day roll bar Cartek rain light as high level brake light Either a set Barnby or Superlight wheels with CR500 tyres 6”&8” Buyers choice. Rapfix QR column Momo 26 steering wheel Soft bits mohair ½ hood and boot cover Titanium 7 grille Mohair side screens VW R32 blue pearl with yellow vinyl stripe Carbon: Rifs rear light blocks (set of four) Front cycle wings Sill protectors Dash Tillett seats (carbon/Kevlar) Front indicator pods C400 airbox Tunnel Inner door skins Armrests Mirrors Rear wing guards Drive train: 2.0 Duratec 276 BHP Ultimate performance CNC head Ultimate performance cams 1mm oversized valves Supertec 12.5-1 pistons Keyed crank Carrillo conrods Raceline/Jenvey 48mm TB’s Raceline dry sump VP2 conrod shells Modified chain tensioner Brize alternator Powerlite starter Raceline compact flywheel ARP flywheel bolts Raceline belt tensioner AP clutch Raceline compact bell housing Raceline engine mounts SBD engine loom MBE ECU Siemens 690cc injectors AH Fabrications Millington dry sump tank Laminova Radtec Extreme radiator Silicone hoses & Mikalor clamps throughout All Goodridge oil fittings BTB 4-2-1 Exhaust Powervamp PV25 battery in alloy case Cartek battery isolator BGH E8 5spd gearbox, alloy case with 2.66 long first. 3.92 diff with Titan LSD Prop shaft. Uprated, sealed and foam filled. Edited by - jason fletcher on 30 May 2013 10:03:51

Bent axles/torsion rods. Run a length of string across the centre of the tyres faces on each side and see is the wheels all point is the same direction Also compare the camber on them too. Also as 2GBR mentioned the the tow ball height could make the rear axles wear but I would think it would have to be a good bit out plus maybe loaded with not enough nose weight to cause this. There is no adjustment if wrong, it's just bent ☹️ Jason

about 6.30pm

On A46 by Coventry airport 6pm

at 60 deg your stat is still closed and the water is only running round the bypass route so your rad will be cold. Run it to above 80 and you should find the rad gets warm. Jason