The Pikey

OK before I bung it on Ebay 350 quid anyone?

I have a JVC HD Everio GZ-GX1 camcorder that I got last week and was used today for the first time. Unfortunately as it has no optical viewfinder (uses the LCD screen) it's no good for picking small model planes out in the sky which is what I wanted to use it for. Having said that it is quite a funky thing being able to connect up to your iPhone for remote filming and what the camera is filming gets sent back in real time (well with a slight delay) I got it via a rewards scheme at work and I think the proof of purchase is still at work. I think the cheapest you will get one of these is £472 ish and this one has only been used for a genuine 11 min 23 seconds today. You will need to supply a SD card as they don't come with one. Review here £380 inc post Jason Edited by - jason fletcher on 13 Aug 2012 17:00:14

Caterhams version.. here

AP do a 14mm one. Jason

Dave there hasn't been on any I have worked on but it if I were putting one together I would do so. Jason

The park switch is in the motor. When the wipers are in any other position than parked the switch sends a +12v out on a wire which is then sent back to the slow speed wire when the wipers are switched off via the old style rocker switch. On yours I would think it will go to the relay module that works a lot of the electrics in your car. Other than that I haven't got a clue how it's wired so unless anyone else has an idea I think a call to Caterham technical would be a good idea. Jason

You can powdercoat over existing powdercoat as long as it's fixed firmly. Ian is right in that the powder is charged so it sticks to the metal so if there is existing powder coat the new powder will struggle to stick to it. So what they do, is heat the item up and shoot the powder while it's hot, it sticks because it melts when it hits. However it's a crap botch job and the results are never perfect. IMO the proper way is to chemically strip or blast the existing off with the correct grit/pressure and then put an etch primer on it first, bung it in the oven just to get it flowing. Then pull it out and shoot your colour on and bung it back it at 180-200 deg or 10 mins. perfect results every time :smoking: Jason Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 6 Aug 2012 23:04:01

Pat the halves marked top got on the bottom on your chassis! On the metric chassis it's the other way round... Bolts don't come with them... Jason

it alters the bump steer. If I remember right on your imperial chassis the clamps want fitting with the larger half towards the ground so they raise the rack. Jason

Quoting anthonym: Ok a few misunderstandings here. My 3.62 LSD complete is out of the car. In its place in the car is another used open 4..0:1 diff in its own casing. Can I transfer the limited slip components? I understand yes. My question is whether there is or what is the risk of noise issues owing to the two already used components being brought together late in their lives? I am being given this issue as a reason NOT to transfer my LS components. Thanks for pics. Off to have a look. Right, yes you can and it is a job you can do yourself but you will need a tool (from ebay) to take the bearing housings off. No risk of any more noise than you have already. Jason

I don't think fitting a new crown wheel and pinion in your old casing will cause any problems if you also change the bearings because you are changing all the wear parts. The only thing is that the pinion height may not be perfect as Ford shimmed each individual casing/pinion . You won't manage to do this job yourself unless you have the right unique tools for this job. As mentioned above, Phil at Road & Race will do this job for you. Jason

Heres my selection Engine: Fuch's Race Pro S 5-40 Gearbox: Redline MTL Diff: Ford 90 grade with additive if LSD Brakes: Dot 4 or 5.1 Coolant: Classic Coolant

Quoting jjsanz: Thanks for all the info. I've started to take the rear apart and had just a couple more questions if I may. 1. Noticed that one end of the A-frame bushes had two large washers between it and the chassis, is this common!! 2. There are two large metal P clips attached to the top of the diff, holding the handbrake cable in place, are these just riveted on to the diff? Can they be drilled out and replaced? Or do you guys just tie-wrap the brake cable to the diff! 3. What thread lock do you use on the bolts holding prop-shaft to the diff? When I took the prop-shaft off the flange, I got a trickle of oil come out, so I guess my leak is between the input shaft and the flange and not the oil seal as there is no oil between the flange and the diff housing!! 1. Yes, it will have been measured to centre the DD tube. They need to go back as they were. 2. I'd drill them out and use tie wraps when it goes back in. 3. I just used the medium strength blue stuff Looks like you have oil travelling up the splines, when the flange goes back on I would ensure all the oil is off the splines and slide it on with RTV. Jason

What you need to do is the same test with the bulb connected. I am sure you have a bad connection or broken wire and this is dropping the voltage under the load of the bulb Check the green wire on the 6 way block as it comes out the headlamp stay (Check the car loom connector and the headlamp connector) If it looks ok remove the green/white or green/red pin (depending on which side you are working on) and run a wire from it to the centre connector on the bulb and see if it works. If it don't then run a wire from a decent ground or battery neg to the outside of the bulb and see if it works. If neither of the above works then the problem is further down the loom ☹️ Jason

Maybe CC fit a ATB diff? How do they act when one wheel is turned? Jason

Personally I would get the bagged sets from Caterham. There are hard to find sizes and ones like suspension bolts are of the correct grade, from known suppliers and are quality assured. Jason

Normal kitchen siv should do the trick

BTW, to get the diff out you don't need to take the Dedion tube out and if the car is high enough the A frame can swing forward when the rear bolt is removed and the forward bolts & spacing washers are just loosened. J

I would defo take the diff out but I doubt it's going to possible to do it in situ anyway because of the prop being it the way. As far as getting the flange off, other than the 4 threaded prop bolt holes there are another two plain holes, these are to locate the tool in which stops the flange turning when you try undoing the nut. The nut holds nothing on apart from the flange. The old seal can be a right bugger to get out too and obviously it's important to get the new one in straight as well. Once the car is up on the stands I can get a diff on the floor in 30 mins so thats the way I would do the job. The time spent taking the diff out will be time saved plus a bit on getting flange off and the seal in and out. Jason

YHBM about the wipers

If you don't get an answer on here and if you have time you could send the ecu to SBD to find out.

He weren't with us but he should have been just like you

This will fit the Imperial chassis too with a couple of spacers or 4-5 washers each side. Jason

Sounds like the spherical bearing at the bottom or the top ball joint or even both. They won't be unique parts to Caterham but I'm guessing the spherical may be difficult to get off the shelf at a bearing company. Jason

I have used a standard pump on a 200 BHP engine without and problems. If you can't find the pump caterham have never got in stock then you can make either the Walbro GSS242 or GSS340 fit without much trouble. Jason