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The Pikey

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Everything posted by The Pikey

  1. I have never had a problems when using Hammerite smooth over powdercoat. Jason
  2. On the looms I have worked on there is a white wire (IG switched live) on the plug that connects to the engine loom and this is what's connected to the IG of your alternator. The alternators L connection should go straight to one side of the warning lamp on the dash the warning lamp on the dash and the other side of the lamp should be an IG switched live. Jason
  3. I had a standard prop and Bailey Morris charged me 100 quid to fit sealed U/J's same as the R500 (which are from a Freelander by the way) and a new gearbox input shaft. Thought this was a bargain! Jason
  4. Although I didn't know Stack recommended it I have always used Teflon sealing compound for these senders. It's very gloopy (is that a word ) and helps it thread in well. Never had a leak. Jason
  5. Kenny I have loads of these relays. (mate works at the place the Caterham looms are made) If you are not sorted let me know. Edited to say these Tyco relays are overkill. You don't need one thats 5 pin and diode protected, just a 4 pin will do fine. Jason Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 9 Apr 2012 22:24:10
  6. The Pikey

    CSR DIFF

    Andrew I just taped cardboard around the tubes. Jason
  7. On the looms I have worked on there are two brown wires coming directly from the battery + to behind the dash, one (the thickest) heads straight to the fuse box and divides off to a good few wires and the other heads towards the right side of the dash and loops back again. This is one of the wires that is cut by the switch you are fitting. The purple wire comes from the fusebox and heads out to the engine bay. Never seen this brown/green you mention but if you look at the colour of the two wires which are wrapped in black loom tape connected to battery+ then you should see two thick brown wires the thinner one of the two is the one the battery master switch is connected to and if it's brown-green they fitted a different colour wire on your loom. Jason
  8. Quoting snuttall: Resurrecting an old thread here, but I've just got hold of one of these leads from SBD to access my Sigma 125's ecu (mainly to try and diganose if the lambda's faulty). Downloaded all the software and drivers, but can't get it to 'see' the ECU - did either of you have any problems getting it set up? Cheers Steve Steve nothing new there for me. It always does that to me even though I follow the instructions to the letter. To sort it read this. Jason
  9. too big, can't reduce it as theres no option to. Can you do it and I'll link to that one? J
  10. If you are talking about the ball joint things then the current imperial RARB is supplied with M8 female ball joints. J
  11. Sounds like the the part that clips in where there fork engages in the selector rod. maybe he gave you the 5 speed version? six speed version
  12. No problems with mine using 13" wheels CR500 tyres and the lowest wing stays. Jason
  13. Dave give me a call at work 01295690933 J
  14. dave flick the hazard light switch a few times. Jason
  15. Shad from my understanding there is more than one AP disc machined from from the same casting. It was a year or so ago when I looked but I'm sure the retail was only 70 ish quid each for a disc that could be machined down to suit. AP racing vented catalogue
  16. Quoting AMMO: I've built 90 Duratec engines without a Laminova. For me it's the perfect solution! 😬 There are pros and cons of using a Laminova. Personally I look at them as adding cost, weight and complication. The nice thing is the fact that the oil warms up quicker. . Ammo Only 90? you need to get your finger out and get into tripple figures my Lam's don't do anything to warm the oil up until the stat opens at 83 deg but at that point there is a rapid oil temp rise. I think the Modine goes in the bypass circuit which means it's working straight away? J
  17. Is there an alternative brake disc available for the current big brakes? I know Canley used to offer one but no more ☹️ thanks Jason
  18. Built two Duratec cars now with laminova's. There is never more than a 5 deg difference between the oil and water. I think it's a perfect solution. Jason
  19. Quoting Pat the Plumber: Strangley enough...NO Well strangely enough thats your problem...
  20. I think that would make it draw less current not more. Jason
  21. Pat as Mav says, with the lever assembly off the box can you push it down and compress the spring? Jason
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