The Pikey

Oh of course the rear lights work off the sides... You would have thought I'd have known that bearing in mind every spare second of my life for the last 6 weeks or so has been wiring a Seven...

Something is not right there. I'm guessing you have 130 watts ( 2x55w and 2x10w) running which is about 11 amps at 12v. Jason Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 28 Mar 2012 23:11:58

Found the missing bolt

I have a new but out of date what I think is a six point harness. There seems to be a few on the Caterham website so I'll try and describe what I have here. Other than the normal 4 mounting points there is a crotch strap that mounts at the rear of the floor. There is no arm restraints. The fitting pack consists of 6x paper washers, 6x flat washers, 6x wavy washers, 6x stepped mounts, 2x short bolts, 2x nuts, 2x long bolts and ONE medium bolt so the buyer will have to supply the other missing bolt.The red release mechanism is on the right strap so it's really suited for the passenger side but would work on both. I have fitted one strap just but noticed that the buckles are silver and not black so it does not match the other one I have hence selling it. Pic available via email. Looks about £200+ for a in date one from Caterham so how does 90 quid delivered sound? thanks Jason

B4100 Warwick about 17.15 today. Jason

Personally I like Laminova's. One will keep your oil and water temp to roughly the same and can be bolted anywhere as they don't need airflow to work. Jason

I've had both and the Duratec is miles ahead of the Sigma. The nicest Sigma IMO is the 125 but it's slow in comparison to the 175 of the Duratec. The Sigma 150 is too top end for me. I haven't tried the 140.. jason

I have a brand new set of ARP main studs, washers and nuts. I bought these last week from Burton Power but they won't fit with the Raceline dry sump system so they are now up for sale. They have not been fitted and are still sealed in the plastic bags. These £80 posted to UK thanks Jason

Not sure you will get the ARB on with the wishbones in place. J

If everything else fails then you could make a simple unit out of an additional buzzer and two diodes. Once made all you would need to do is pull off the left and right indicator spades off the switch and connect the gizmo in line along with a earth. Theres a wiring diagram on the club site somewhere. Jason

Look under the dash for the bleeper. It is a black plastic thing about 10mm round it looks like this. It will be taped to the loom. You will most likely find the sticker is still on it and this makes a massive difference to the volume. Jason Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 11 Mar 2012 00:09:38

don't sound normal, can you post a pic? Jason

Here you go Steve. here

As said above a step drill will do an ok job of it but a sheet metal punch will do a perfect job of putting a hole the thin aly dash. J

I'm guessing they would use the rim to clamp the wheels to the bed so I would think you would need to remove the tyres. Edited to say I'd be semding them to K&N to get them on a lathe and done properly. Jason Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 4 Mar 2012 15:48:18

Any comments on these doors? Are they any good and what are they like to keep clean? thanks Jason

They are only a M8 x 20 10.9 grade hex bolt. Jason

I think most would use 80w 90 gear oil. and you will get this from Halfrauds You may need some additive if it creaks. Jason

1/2 impact wrench Small disc cutter Riveter Tyre inflator Couple of blow off guns And my favorate is a small 3/8 drive impact wrench, it's brilliant! Jason

Tom have you tried some decent bulbs? if you will pardon the pun the difference is like night and day.. Jason

The SVC and Caterham lights are exactly the same other than maybe the connections. My last pair that came from Caterham had SVC stickers inside them... Jason

Can someone tell me why having a LSD would make it whine while driving in a straight line because I can't see why it would?? OK going round a corner slowly you might get a grumble or two but in a straight line from my view they are all the same. There are silent diffs out there ( I've have had two out the 6 caterhams I've owned) so it is posable to get good ones but the fact remains most are carp. I know Caterham say TADTS but they don't all do it so there has to be more to it. I'm currently not convinced by that the mesh should be in the middle of the teeth as suggested by some. I have spoken to someone who recently had the opportunity to measure the backlash and blue the gears to check mesh on a "new old stock" sierra diff and he found the backlash was 2 thou and the gear mesh was towards the inner edge of the C/W. He thinks this is so because with the application of BHP and expansion of the case with heat the mesh would then end up with a central mesh. Also the C/W bearing preload was very high and again he thinks this would loosen off with case expansion. I have just built a diff to the above settings and it should be on the road in about three weeks so we will then see if the above is B.S or not . Jason Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 3 Mar 2012 23:37:28

Jon Stone seen cruising around Kenilworth today. The 7 is looking good with those Nitrons Jon :smoking: Jason

looks like he's sat in the car but his head is missing?? 😳

Grant Axle 1: 360 Axle 2: 500 Gross: 860 Jason