wingnutLP

I have just realised that I never closed tis thread off. It was the receiver wire that had come bent out of place so it wasn't surrounding the ignition barrel. Once bent back it worked fine. Thanks so much all, I would have had someone out to fix it or worse had the car towed as I was at a complete loss.

it is not an sv, a normal skinny car but I am v skinny! Yep, harness rather than inertia reel. I don't use the crotch strap as I can't see how it will go round teh seat pad and it doesn't seem to be able to fit through the seat. I could do with going up to normal height in order to stop my elbows frombashing the transmission tunnel as much. I tried a pillow at bedforrd to wedge me in and spun immediately due to lack of feeling through my backside!

I have the standard leather seats and am a skinny sod. I don't feel very secure and have to brace myself with my right knee aganst the tunnel. One problem is that I have a lowered drivers seat so I will get that lifted so I can clamp myself tighter with the seatbelts but I am wondering if I should consider either the tillet seats or the new GT seats. Any thoughts? Is the weight saving on the seats worthwhile and is it the kind of thing I might find someone to do a swap with? Edited by - wingnutLP on 21 Dec 2012 15:29:16

There is a funny loped wire thing around that area which i noticed for the first time yesterday. Should it be plugged in to something? I think it seemed to befloating loose around the barrel... Thanks

Hi All, I want for a short blat this sunday after filling up my car the flashing immobiliser light on the dash would not go off and so I couldn't start the car. It has never given any problems before, normally I just twist the key all the way in the ignition which causes the led on the dash to flash fast and then I wave the fob around the ignition barrel and the light goes out. This time nothing... I have a battery cut off switch and so tride cutting power for a bit but still no joy. Things I thought may have been causing the problem include my new phone which has NFC which I thought may have caused interference but even with phone well away the problem persisted. The only other thing I can think that may have changed recently is that I fitted a lithium battery about a 9 months ago. This has worked finre but I recently bought a conditioner that possibly keeps the voltage a bit higher or lower? What doesn't make sense is that it started fine from home and then died at the petrol station... After 20 minutes or half an hour just as I was about to give up it suddenly worked. So I drove home with no problems and then once in the garage tried again and it is dead again and whatever I do I can't get the immobiliser off. Any ideas on what I should do?

FWIW it was a wire slipped out of a crimped bullet connector. It took an age to find though!

The supplier has been incredibly helpful. They think that the calculator on the site was not working and gave me a figure that was too high consequently the exhaust once the packing has expanded has over filled. They are sending me FOC 2 meters to replace the 1.7m I bought. They said to stick 1 meter in which they think should be enough and then I have a meter spare in case I need it later. I will re pack and then post new noise reading next time I track it.

Quoting Neil66: Quoting wingnutLP: Surely only a moron would rivet something like that closed? Bollox... nothing wrong with riveted cans... I've ridden bikes for years with aftermarket cans & they're always riveted - ally rivets, easy to drill out & easy to replace. Provide a seal what's wrong with them...?? Obviously if the can in question is 5x the size & weight of a light bike can, and it's only a few rivets - ally maybe questionable, but certainly not to be written off with a flippant remark like that... The car's half held together with rivets for gwds sake A servicable part that you need a drill to access is a good idea? The car is half held together with rivets but your wouldn't rivet your bonnet closed would you? Call me old fashioned but I think that if you need access to a part of the car to perform routine maintenance it is probably best to use a fastener that can be removed and repaced rather than a rivet.

I fitted this stuff in may and have done two or three track days and 2000 miles since. On the first track day at brands the tester unprompted said "that is quiet for a k series 7" but I didn't ask the reading. Next few events were no problem but yesterday I was nearly not allowed into bedford at 99.1db. I got flagged each lap unless I stayed off the gas in both places where drive by microphones are on the left of the track. I have e mailed them to see what they say but have not opened the can yet. It will be interesting to see why the sudden change.

there must be a way in... Mine is rivited one end and has recessed hex nuts on the other. Surely only a moron would rivet something like that closed?

Just got home. Great weather! I hadn't been before and quite like it. Strict drive by limits on noise mean that I had to be a bit careful. I need to look at my recently re packed silencer and see what the problem is.

great, but lots of ideas there thanks. It needs to go up about the height it was lowered so i guess that is 30mm or so. I will watch out for the roll bar but iI have long legs and a short body so iI think iI will be fine as iI am not planning on going higher than the original seat height would have been. box section Ali sounds like the way to go rather than spacer bolts as iI was thinking.

my car came with a lowered seat and I am long of leg and short of body! It hadn't really bothered me but at brands last week the instructor suggested my thumbs should be resting in the crooks of the steering wheel. to get my hands that low my elbows bump against the transmission tunnel particularly but also the door rest. This makes changing gear a bit awkward. I have since tried sitting on a pillow in the car and think I have been too low all along. With the pillow I have a better view and also can change gear more easily with my hands in a comfortable position. It also might help with the fact that iI physically can't get the lap part of my belt tight enough around my skinny ass when iI am on track! The upshot is that I now need to raise my seat. I don't really want to remove the lowered floor as the next owner may eventually want it so iI was wondering if anyone has any clever ideas? Has anyone ever seen spacing bolts for this purpose? I could use some tube, washers and long bolts I guess but I worry that there will be movement in them. your thoughts on the matter would be much appreciated.

OK, I will take a look. There is a toggle switch but when it is set to oil which used to work now reads zilch. I will contort myself under the dash and see if I have knocked something loose and thenhave a look at the apollo tank. Thanks :)

I have just removed my faulty factory fit oil pressure guage and replaced it with a mecanical one and for some reason the oil temp has stopped working. Any ideas? I have checked all connections in the back. The pressure sender only had one connection so I don't see how the sender could have also done temperature. Maybe there is some sort of pass through from the old pressure dial to the temperature dial? I have left all the old wiring in place, should I try plugging in the old guage to see what happens?