Roadsport06

Good afternoon all, Just a quick update. I went back to the start, stripped the gear lever down, regreased it. I put in a new saddle, screwed the lever back. I put on a steering rack gaiter to stop dirt getting in. The lever is now pushing down and going into reverse nicely. Thank you again for your responses

Thanks all. Having kids means ducking and diving so often, but I've managed a few minutes to change spark plugs. Water down cylinder 3 so that probably explains the rough running with fault codes for misfire on cylinder 3 and O2 sensor. I've ordered a new saddle. I'll check the lever is doing it's thing next week, change the saddle and reseat the lever. (Note to self - check that what you've done is working before putting everything back. Although it won't take long). On reflection, I suspect the saddle may be the issue as it was near impossible to push down to get into gear and the lever wasn't crudded up. I did the steering rack gaiter addition which the lever was out first time. I'll update here for people in the future.

Thank you all for the input. I'll start again, I'll change the saddle too. What are the advantages of a bronze saddle?

That's my thought JV. I was called away after I'd stripped it down and degreased it. It's hardly the most complicated bit of kit but I may have been an idiot and got something in the wrong order as I was a way from it for a while. Does anyone have an exploded diagram of it as I think I need to get the tunnel off again and look at it. I think from top working down I had circlip, collar, spring, collar, spacer, bearing. I can't remember whether I had the bearing mounted in the top or bottom the housing. I assumed the spring was crudded up and that was making it difficult to push the lever down but it didn't look too bad. I know nothing about the bit where the lever and gearbox mount. Could there be anything that needs greasing that is stopping me push down on the gear lever? I also had a misfire on cylinder 3 and an O2 sensor error on OBD2. I'll put in fresh fuel and change the plugs, but possibly need a new lambda sensor. Is there a gremlin than sneaks in my over winter ready to annoy us on the first drive of the year?!

Good evening all. I've been struggling to push my gear lever down and into reverse. Last weekend I took the car out of hibernation and took off the lever and stripped down the gear lever as per here. Degreased the stripped off parts and greased. I took the car out for the first time. I can't push the gear lever down at all but I can get into reverse without pushing down. As if all gears and reverse are on the same plane. Have I done something daft (I was called away after stripping the lever but I surely haven't cocked that up). Is there anything else I should look to? Or start again?

DVA stocks the gaskets with the holes drilled or you can drill them yourself. I clamped the gasket between two wooden blocks and drilled through the blocks and gasket to ensure the gasket didn't get damaged.

I'd agree with JK. Get your voltage measurements. Is the battery fluids topped up? The battery isn't the biggest so an immobiliser will drain them in not much time. The drop in voltage on cranking can be enough to reset the immobiliser.

Has the immobilizer disabled? If not you'll get fuel on first start to run for a few seconds before there is no fuel

Is testing the brake fluid in the reservoir a reliable check? That assumes that the brake fluid/water ratio is homogeneous throughout. Is that the case? I had read somewhere that the water migrates to the lower point, usually the calipers.

It looks like the one off a Rover 25. PCF010086.

That was an issue in my car. It only really revealed itself when I had the car running so there was pressure in the system. It was a pin hole, the hoses weren't old but weren't in a good way, cracking all over the place. I decided to swap to silicone for all hoses.

Why not sign and date it - seems more fitting and personal for a car built at home and your connection stays with the car into the future.

There is a rubber pipe from your filler pipe to tank that is worth checking .They can leak here. I'm not convinced that the rubber is resistant to petrol so perish. The other is the gasket for the fuel sender under the boot floor. I've had both perish.

Method A - Bleed tee. Here This goes in your highest hose and slowly fill from there so you don't get air locks. Once at the correct level close up the bleed tee, massage the bottom rad hose with a few big squeezes, run the car up to temperature so the thermostat has opened, let it cool and check if you need to add a little at the bleed tee so that hose is full of coolant. Some people seem to struggle more than others with air locks. I never have but I fitted the tee during my build.

Contralube on the pins though