I'm sure the 90LS oil will be fine regardless of what LSD you have. The LS additive will do nothing to help a ATB diff if thats what you have but it won't hurt it either.
Jason
Had exactly the same problem. Check the tapered hole the track rod end goes in is drilled central and straight, one of mine was not central. In fact the hole was so close to the edge it could not have been safe to use. CC were a little concerned 😳
Jason
Elie
have considered running the water rail along the other side above the zorst? I think it's a much neater job and keeps things more accessible.
couple of very poor pics here
Jason
Quoting ozzy: Jason,
I know a few men in white coats. Would you like me to send them round, to save you from yourself?
Nige
you won't say that if the new one come's off . I'll give you a clue, two words, Hartley- Levante
J
I have a itch that needs to be scratched so I'm afraid that subject to getting some prices on a few things I will have to sell my 7 and build another one
Haven't got the time to put the full spec down at the moment but I think it's the ultimate series 3 Seven. Built last year and has a 1800 mile old 276 BHP Duratec pushing it along.
I'll post some more details of the spec if the new project looks like a goer.
Jason
Edited by - jason fletcher on 28 Dec 2012 18:38:56
Always a good idea to balance the brakes.
First off and most importantly make sure the shoes are not sliding down to allow the trailer to reverse otherwise it will not be posable to adjust accurately. If you can't tow it forwards into the place you want to work on it the best way to do this is to pull it along by hand and sort of pull the hand brake on a bit just so the shoes grab, this shoves the shoes where they need to be. At this point do not push the trailer backwards and do not rotate the wheels backwards while setting up. I think the above is why some people bugger the job up.
Jack it up so all 4 wheels are off the ground. loosen the brake linkage rod, find the adjusting screw on each drum and while rotating the wheel FORWARD tighten the screw up until you can just about turn the wheel. Then back of 20 clicks. Do the same on all 4 wheels. You now have equally balanced drums. Now adjust the cables so they feel equal on the balance bars. Then take up the slack on the linkage rod, to do this pull the rod backwards and forwards and shorten until the metallic clunk at the hitch end just disappears.
To check it's all gone ok while rotating one wheel forward get a helper to raise the hand brake slightly until you feel it grabbing slightly then without the helper moving the handbrake check all wheels are about the same. It's unusual for them to be perfect but they should be somewhere near.
Jason
Buy another and fit it yourself. Its not hard to do. Even though all the wires are black you will find they are coloured inside the box itself. To save time you could even cut the existing wires a few inches out the box and connect the new ones. The longest job will be removing the scuttle which I doubt is a job an alarm man would want to do anyway.
I do have a installation booklet here if you need it.
Jason
I can see why you are looking at it but the standard engine has a 11.5:1 compression ratio and it already redlines at 8600 with it's max 222hp at 8000. Bearing that in mind I don't think we would see the 100+ extra BHP you can squeeze out of a 170bhp Duratec.
Honda K20
Compression: 11.5:1
Power: 225 PS (165 kW; 222 hp) @ 8000 rpm
Torque: 215 N·m (159 lb·ft) @ 6100 rpm
Redline: 8600 RPM
Jason
Strangely I was thinking of what Rich could make with the off cuts too... and then I started to think that it would be nice to have Colin Chapmans signature in it somewhere... Hint hint Rich..
Mine has arrived and it's a very very nice improvement on the standard product.
well done Rich
Jason
Quoting EFA: SBD are full of Sh1t. Have been since they ripped me off in 1993.
All in my opinion only of course.
Edited by - EFA on 7 Nov 2012 08:01:26
Don't beat about the bush Arnie, just say what you mean. 😬
BTW, got 276bhp out of mine with a Ultimate Performance head, oversized valves and 12.5 to 1.00 Supertec pistons. Built it myself and it's a walk in the park if you fancy it.
Jason
Darren
Not many people have managed to get 300 out the 2.0. SBD claim their kits will do that but strangely they won't build you one and won't guarantee you will get it if you build or get a engine built with their kit.
Could you go with a 2.3? Easy to get your 300 if you do.
Jason
I am 99% sure I have a new one of these at work which you can have for £35.00. If that sounds ok I can check on Tuesday.
Edited to say I think it's a 3/4 so .75
Jason
Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 4 Nov 2012 18:55:15