keybaud

The calipers are AP racing calipers and were installed correctly, which is horizontally; however, the entry and bleed point on the AP calipers are at equal levels. I jacked up the front of the car to raise the brake fluid reservoir above the height of the brake bias valve and this also raised the bleed nipple above the brake hose entry point. The reason for the air still being inside the caliper appears more to do with the fluid flow inside the caliper, hence the need to remove the caliper and hold it vertical to ensure all the air can be removed.

The problem was resolved by removing the calipers and bleeding them whilst vertical, with a piece of wood between the pads. This allowed the trapped air in the caliper to finally be removed. Two months of anguish over...

I am having a nightmare trying to bleed my brakes, so I'd be grateful for any advice on how to find the actual problem and/or resolve it. I had the rear calipers refurbished and replaced all the brake hoses, as there was a leak in one of the calipers and the hoses were frayed in places. I bled the brakes manually, but even when no air came out, it still took 2 presses of the brake pedal before it went firm. I then bought a Sealey pressurised brake bleeder and did the brakes again. The system stayed pressurised before I started bleeding, so there isn't a leak, and it really was a lot easier to bleed. With the pressurised container still attached, the brakes function correctly, but as soon as the pressure is released, it still needs to 2 pumps until firm. The only thing I can think of is that there may be an airlock in the brake bias valve. How can I test if this is the problem and how can I fix it? I've had the reservoir higher than the valve for a week and I tried bleeding the rear calipers with the 3-way junction above the bias valve.

Or get a 7" wheel made up.

Which ECU is it? My Omex 600 rev counter output (blue/yellow wire) is the signal wire to the rev counter, which also has a positive and a negative feed. The ECU gets the RPM from the crank sensor. Page 25 has more details and discusses the coil positive and negative confusion. http://omextechnology.co.uk/600%20ECU%20Installation%20Manual%202v01.pdf

Lithium batteries are also charged by a different method (constant current) to lead acid batteries, so the battery will have to contain circuitry to stop them from being damaged by a lead acid battery charger. I assume that the electronics can't handle the very high currents of a jump start battery, which is much higher than a charger or alternator output, so the issue is the current, not the voltage. The high current may damage the internal circuitry of a lithium battery, whereas the lead in a lead acid battery can take quite a beating, as there are no electronics to be damaged. The electronics will also be why you can recharge a dead lithium battery, because it wasn't actually dead, it was protected when it reached a minimum voltage, so only pretending to be dead. All this extra gubbins is something else to go wrong, so, as I said earlier, lithium for reduced weight, lead for reduced maintenance. Other reasons I wouldn't use a lithium battery in a car, is the same reason I won't charge my lithium batteries inside a car: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjAtBiTSsKY http://www.rcnews.net/2014/04/25/lipo-battery-fire-spreads-through-shed/ /edit Electric cars are designed to use lithium batteries and the entire charging mechanism is also designed for lithium batteries, whereas I wouldn't put a lithium battery in a car with a charging system for lead acid and chargers at home that are designed for lead acid. There are too many factors that could cause a problem and a burnt out Caterham isn't on my list of things I'd like for Xmas. I'm still looking for the photo of a burnt out BMW 3 series, where the owner user to rehcrage his radio control batteries with a proper lithium 12V charger. I say 'used to' as the car was damaged beyond repair in the ensuing fire when one of his batteries exploded.

I use LiPOs for radio control models and regularly have to replace them. They have fantastic discharge rates and the rate at which they can be charged is getting better, but they are much more delicate than a lead acid and can easily be damaged beyond repair. Even storing them at the incorrect charge state can damage them and discharging them too far kills them stone dead. If weight is a primary consideration, the LiPO is the way forward, but if reliability is more important, then I'd stick with lead acid.

I have 220 BHP with 6" front 13" wheels and 7" rear wheels. I have 70 profile AO21Rs for road and 55 profile CR500s for track, as I wanted more ground clearance on the roads without changing the suspension setup, but the AO21R is no longer road legal and the CR500 is no longer manufactured, so I'm in a similar pickle.The Avon replacement for the CR500 is the ZZR, the smallest of which is 185/55x13, so a little bit wider than the CR500 175/55x13. It is suitable for 5.5" to 7" wheels, so you could just fit them, if you haven't had problems with your narrower CR500s. Alternatively, you could get 2 wider rear wheels and fit the 215/55x13, which is suitable for 7" to 8.5" wheels, but make sure you know the wheels will fit and not interfere with anything else before you buy them. My rears are 7", ET50, 108mm PCD and fit a DeDion car. http://www.avonmotorsport.com/road-legal/performance/zzr /edit I could be wrong about the CR500 not being made any more, as it wasn't listed on one Avon related site, but I've found it on another one!

Has anyone got a 5-speed gear knob for sale? I bought an aluminium ball one from EBay, which is very nicely made, but it is about an inch too low. I could get an extension for it, but I'd rather have a single knob has the extra height built in to the design.

Ignoring the type of liquid used in a cooling system, the coolant's purpose is to transfer heat. Anything else it does is a side-effect, beneficial or otherwise. Waterless based solutions are not as effective at transferring heat, but offer beneficial side-effects, such as reduced corrosion and reduced pressure (so less chance of hoses blowing). They also boil at a higher temperature, so can be used for an engine that runs hot, but deliberately making an engine run hotter will require more thought than just using waterless coolant, as the oil viscocity will now be reduced. Note 1: If they transfer heat slower than water, this means that they not only take it away from the engine at a reduced rate, they also give it off at a reduced rate at the radiator, but if the engine termperature is the same for both types of coolant, then the water mix is not working at its full capacity. Bad analogy: I use a 10Kg bucket to carry 5Kg of sand and I then use a 5Kg bucket to carry 5Kg of sand, the sand transfer rate is the same, despite the smaller bucket. My personal opinion: Snake oil in a pretty bottle. It's primary function (for normal cars, inc 7s) isn't as good as water based coolants, but it looks pretty and gives users something to talk about down the pub. P.S. If it has a lower thermal capacity and you get a leak, you'll hit problems with waterless coolants quicker than with water-based ones.

Part of my adjustable front anti-roll bar has snapped and it isn't possible to replace this part any more. I want to replace the broken anti-roll bar with a standard one as I don't race the car, which is a 1992 Vauxhall Challenge S3 with standard width front suspension.

My Vx is 59mm on CR500s and 75mm on 70 profile AO21Rs

Going across at an angle and then straightening up as you ride over the bump or putting your wheels on the curb, if there is one, are two other options.

Added linkiness http://www.caterham.nl/cars-for-sale/page/show_ad/catid/8/adid/321

The UK distributor for Newton Equipment is Think Automotive. Give them a call and they'll be able to get you a replacement without buying a complete assembly. http://www.thinkauto.com/