jonheli

Hi Nick 175 55x13, Date code is 1304. Regards, Jon

For Sale - 4x Avon CR500 175 55x13 1.5 - 2.0mm above wear bars £80 set Caterham 7Pro4Blue 4pt Q/R Harness valid to 2020 as new with receipt (purchased 2016) £80 Caterham 7CS-2Red Plug in crutch strap as new £15 S3 FIA bar sfbs half hood, as new used once in dry £70 NOW SOLD Hood Bag for full hood (straps to roll bar) '7' logo on ends £40 9 litres Comma MS5L 5W50 Engine oil £30 Please PM if interested, collection only (I live in Kent) Thanks, Jon

Hope these help, as you can see I also have an Apollo on my 220 BHP 7, and it is a Wet Sump 1.8 K Series Works very well, Oil Temp never rises too high and warms up quickly!! Regards, Jon

Hi All Does anyone know if a TRS 'Single Seater/Caterham' 6 Point Harness will fit ok, ie are the belt mountings (placement and hole dia) a direct replacement for the original Luke 4 point Harness? Reason for asking is I want to upgrade existing 4 point (2" Straps), and I've found a very reduced price one on Fleabay

Success at last!! For reference, I connected the red 'Headlights' wire on the unit to the Single Blue wire on the Dip/Main toggle switch (Permanent Live); The black 'Ignition' wire was connected into the green wire on the Heated Screen switch (Ignition switched feed). Now all works perfectly, so again Thanks for all the help and advice.

Thanks Ian - at least I now know I'm not that thick or going mad!! I did see a 'surplus' wire under there, and my car also has a Heated Screen switch but normal screen, so that gives me a couple of options to try; I'm sure I'll get there in the end, and anyway this is all part of the fun of owning a 7! Thanks for your help

Can't seem to upload larger than this!First Instructions are for when Ignition is off and Lights left on - It has a Red Wire ('Connect to Headlight Fuse' ) and Black wire ('Connect to Ignition Fuse'). Second part of instructions is for after door has been opened with lights left on I have tried connecting to Blue Wire on Dip Switch and Ignition controlled Feed to Indicator switch - this makes it buzz when indicator is switched to left/right, but makes no difference if headlights are on. beginning to wonder if this is something to do with Immobiliser, (which is not standard Rover - it has a coded key that goes into a socket on dash), Although this makes no difference when trying to get this to work. With Ignition off, all Lights can be put on/left on, and dip flasher also works, so maybe it is not wired conventionally?

Thanks Simon - yes, I did contact them and they were very helpful and supplied just the base lead and sent by ordinary post, so very happy!! As you say, they are a great company, and give great after service! Cheers, Jon

hi Jonathan - hope these help. Not sure of make as it was bought on Ebay. maybe I'd be better sticking to a known brand, as ian B mentioned!

After much poking under the dash, It appears that my car (K Series) has a live feed to the Main Beam Flash switch! Seems I've got to find another Ignition controlled source that's easy to get to. Having tried some other ways of connecting the buzzer unit, all I've discovered is that I can get it to operate all the time, but can't find a way of silencing it with the Ignition on. Might have to try another make of unit? This one has just a red wire (connect to Headlights) and a black wire (connect to Ignition Switch), but that seems to be the same as most others I've looked at!

Thanks to you both, as ever a great help in solving one more of the 7's mysteries, and much appreciated! I continue to be amazed and delighted with the support available from the forum....... this is without doubt the best club I have ever belonged to!!

I've had a couple of times when leaving the car parked during the day of forgetting to turn lights off (Is it a sign of advancing years?!), fortunately without suffering a flat battery as not parked for long. I've bought a buzzer to remind me, and the instructions kindly mention the door operated courtesy light switch (!!), but also state connection is made to headlight wire and ignition switch wire as the connections to be made. Trouble is, having looked under dashboard at switches, I can't see any easy way of splicing the two wires into the respective cables as there is hardly any space, and little 'free wire' to use. Same applies to fuse box (bring back the old screw terminal boxes I say.... showing my age here!!). Anyone found an easier way to wire one of these in, or should I just try to remember to switch them off without help?

Hi all Can anyone tell me if a standard serial lead will be ok with my Emerald M3DK to laptop connection? Didn't have a lead supplied when I bought the car, and Emerald can supply a lead (with an OBD plug as well which I don't want) for £30, plus nearly £7 p&p, so nearly £40 total for something which I might get cheaper elsewhere (and less P&P for a bit of wire and jiffy bag!) Help as always much appreciated

Don't know if this will help - Mine has a brass bleed fitted into heater hose; once jacked up, you remove a screw on cap and then fill via the expansion tank until coolant appears in top radiator plug,Replace plug in radiator and screw cap on, then top up expansion tank after letting car back down. Usual hose squeezing, then recheck level.

Thanks for that Jonathan, the archive was interesting! No real problems with the brakes (Discs all round, standard calipers), but when I first got the car, although it stopped well, just didn't have that 'sharp' feeling; changed the front pads to M1144 which were an improvement, now as fluid probably should be changed felt I'd try this fluid as I have some unused 1 litre tins.