Mikey UC

Hi finmac Mrs just dropped her phone down the loo (not the first time....or second) Is it still available ? Cheers (we'll take it if it is) Mike

Thanks gents Phoned up the Seven Workshop looks like they know their way around a live axle, waiting for them to call back. It definitely isn’t the bushes, I took the wheel and brake drum off, the half shaft was able to move while the axle itself remained still.

Rear live axle clunk when cornering, I jacked up the rear of the car and felt a clonk and some movement when I pushed and pulled on the wheel so I’m pretty sure it’s the bearing slipping. I also took the wheel off and wiggled the half shaft just to check it wasn’t the bushes. So I guess the bearing needs to be shimmed or tack welded in place. Does anyone know the best place to get this done ? Was wondering how hard it would be pack the bearing out with shims myself ? Many thanks

Thanks keybaud I have the Omex 200 with a blue/yellow wire from the ecu to the tacho and page 25 is exactly the same in my manual. My car is one of the older versions not having an ecu where the tacho was driven off the coil -ive lead. So i was just going to connect the blue/yellow wire into the now redundant coil -ive lead. it's just that i wasnt expecting a +ive voltage on this cable when measured with just the ignition on. Hmmm

Rev counter connection Normally the rev counter is connected to the –ive side of the coil (on cars without an ecu) The Omex ecu has a rev counter output that connects on to –ive coil lead (which is no longer being used as a coil pack is replacing the coil ) Only thing is the –ive coil lead has a voltage of about 3.5 volts, so I was a bit wary about connecting the ecu onto it. I contacted Northampton motorsport just to check the connections and they confirmed the rev counter lead connects to the coil –ive lead but was unsure about the voltage that I was measuring. Just wanted to check I am not about to fry my ecu by putting a current down the rev counter output. Anyone installed an Omex could help on the rev counter connection ? Many thanks Mike

Cheers Jonathan – I have a wiring diagram,( but I’m struggling to read it.) On the crosflow I had a Webcon distributerless coil pack which I am also using for the K Series. I am using a white 12v cable ( which I’m pretty sure was the old coil supply) to power the coil pack, and I have earthed the coil pack directly back to the chassis. Next to the white cable termination there is also a white cable with a black line running along it, I guess this was the negative terminal for the coil, which I was going to use for my negative / earth but decided not to as it was showing about 5v back to earth. I'll try to find the brown / white trace white in the engine bay tonight and go from there, Cheers gents.

Does anyone know where the connection is to the rev counter on a crossflow wiring loom ? I have a new Omex ecu with an output lead to the tacho but having problems trying to trace the wiring back to the tacho input. Many thanks

Thanks Simonpa Bloonin brill that. I actually ended up gunging the collets to a screw driver and then on to the valve stem. Did the whole lot in about an hour.

Took a whole evening to replace 4 valve stem seals. Can’t believe how small the valve spring collets are. With my neighbour holding an inspection lamp almost on top of the cylinder head and positioning the collets with a pair of tweezers – felt like a game of operation.

Yes, identical jets. Started with the usual 2 ½ turns out on all mixture screws and wound them in until I got the best running. But I couldn’t get 1 & 2 to run richen up. Carbs fairly well balanced with a bit of tube and ear.

Still having problems Cylinders 1 & 2 are running lean, plugs are clean and wet when removed and there seems to be oil leaking out of the exhaust manifold at the 4 – 1 collector for both cylinders. The colour tune spark plug glows white showing a lean mixture and altering the Weber mixture screws doesn’t change this. Cylinders 3 and 4 are running rich, plugs are sooty black, the colour tune spark plug glows orange / yellow showing a rich mixture. Did a compression test No1. 210psi No.2 200psi No.3 210psi No.4 210psi. Took the exhaust manifold off but couldn’t see any obvious signs of oil on the valve stems (but quite difficult to see) Would a leaky valve stem oil seal cause the mixture to run lean ? Cheers for any help gents. Edited by - Mikey UdaleClarke on 6 Sep 2014 17:18:34

Many thanks revilla I might give it another run this evening In the hope that as it was the first time the engine had been run properly it might just be burning off some accumulated gunk. Failing that I’ll start with the manifold as you suggested and check exhaust valves, and hope its not the piston rings. Does the k series have a block breather – or does it use just the two on the cam cover ?

Had the car idling nicely but with a slight hesitation when depressing the throttle quickly, which I put down to running a bit lean on undersized idle jets, so booked in to James Whiting next week for an MOT and to sort out the weber jets. However took the car for a bit more of a spirited run up and down my road, when I came back the exhaust was quite smoky with oil seeping out, around the 4 – 1 exhaust manifold collector. I replaced the head gasket myself, so it’s possible I did it incorrectly (but pretty sure the head was torqued back on properly and stretch bolts still within tolerance). Anything else that would cause oil in the exhaust, before I take the head off (again).

Cheers Gents Checked the cam timing using two bits of tube down 1 & 2 cylinders, sounds much better now. I was about 5 degrees out before, sounded like a tractor in need of a valve regrind. Its hesitating a lot on acceleration, I think that’s down to my idle jets being undersized (using Weber carbs).

Many thanks gents. I’ll line it up with the pulley marks and check it by measuring the 1 & 2 piston positions.