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Mikey UC

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Everything posted by Mikey UC

  1. Hi finmac Mrs just dropped her phone down the loo (not the first time....or second) Is it still available ? Cheers (we'll take it if it is) Mike
  2. Thanks gents Phoned up the Seven Workshop looks like they know their way around a live axle, waiting for them to call back. It definitely isn’t the bushes, I took the wheel and brake drum off, the half shaft was able to move while the axle itself remained still.
  3. Rear live axle clunk when cornering, I jacked up the rear of the car and felt a clonk and some movement when I pushed and pulled on the wheel so I’m pretty sure it’s the bearing slipping. I also took the wheel off and wiggled the half shaft just to check it wasn’t the bushes. So I guess the bearing needs to be shimmed or tack welded in place. Does anyone know the best place to get this done ? Was wondering how hard it would be pack the bearing out with shims myself ? Many thanks
  4. Thanks keybaud I have the Omex 200 with a blue/yellow wire from the ecu to the tacho and page 25 is exactly the same in my manual. My car is one of the older versions not having an ecu where the tacho was driven off the coil -ive lead. So i was just going to connect the blue/yellow wire into the now redundant coil -ive lead. it's just that i wasnt expecting a +ive voltage on this cable when measured with just the ignition on. Hmmm
  5. Rev counter connection Normally the rev counter is connected to the –ive side of the coil (on cars without an ecu) The Omex ecu has a rev counter output that connects on to –ive coil lead (which is no longer being used as a coil pack is replacing the coil ) Only thing is the –ive coil lead has a voltage of about 3.5 volts, so I was a bit wary about connecting the ecu onto it. I contacted Northampton motorsport just to check the connections and they confirmed the rev counter lead connects to the coil –ive lead but was unsure about the voltage that I was measuring. Just wanted to check I am not about to fry my ecu by putting a current down the rev counter output. Anyone installed an Omex could help on the rev counter connection ? Many thanks Mike
  6. Cheers Jonathan – I have a wiring diagram,( but I’m struggling to read it.) On the crosflow I had a Webcon distributerless coil pack which I am also using for the K Series. I am using a white 12v cable ( which I’m pretty sure was the old coil supply) to power the coil pack, and I have earthed the coil pack directly back to the chassis. Next to the white cable termination there is also a white cable with a black line running along it, I guess this was the negative terminal for the coil, which I was going to use for my negative / earth but decided not to as it was showing about 5v back to earth. I'll try to find the brown / white trace white in the engine bay tonight and go from there, Cheers gents.
  7. Does anyone know where the connection is to the rev counter on a crossflow wiring loom ? I have a new Omex ecu with an output lead to the tacho but having problems trying to trace the wiring back to the tacho input. Many thanks
  8. Thanks Simonpa Bloonin brill that. I actually ended up gunging the collets to a screw driver and then on to the valve stem. Did the whole lot in about an hour.
  9. Took a whole evening to replace 4 valve stem seals. Can’t believe how small the valve spring collets are. With my neighbour holding an inspection lamp almost on top of the cylinder head and positioning the collets with a pair of tweezers – felt like a game of operation.
  10. Yes, identical jets. Started with the usual 2 ½ turns out on all mixture screws and wound them in until I got the best running. But I couldn’t get 1 & 2 to run richen up. Carbs fairly well balanced with a bit of tube and ear.
  11. Still having problems Cylinders 1 & 2 are running lean, plugs are clean and wet when removed and there seems to be oil leaking out of the exhaust manifold at the 4 – 1 collector for both cylinders. The colour tune spark plug glows white showing a lean mixture and altering the Weber mixture screws doesn’t change this. Cylinders 3 and 4 are running rich, plugs are sooty black, the colour tune spark plug glows orange / yellow showing a rich mixture. Did a compression test No1. 210psi No.2 200psi No.3 210psi No.4 210psi. Took the exhaust manifold off but couldn’t see any obvious signs of oil on the valve stems (but quite difficult to see) Would a leaky valve stem oil seal cause the mixture to run lean ? Cheers for any help gents. Edited by - Mikey UdaleClarke on 6 Sep 2014 17:18:34
  12. Many thanks revilla I might give it another run this evening In the hope that as it was the first time the engine had been run properly it might just be burning off some accumulated gunk. Failing that I’ll start with the manifold as you suggested and check exhaust valves, and hope its not the piston rings. Does the k series have a block breather – or does it use just the two on the cam cover ?
  13. Had the car idling nicely but with a slight hesitation when depressing the throttle quickly, which I put down to running a bit lean on undersized idle jets, so booked in to James Whiting next week for an MOT and to sort out the weber jets. However took the car for a bit more of a spirited run up and down my road, when I came back the exhaust was quite smoky with oil seeping out, around the 4 – 1 exhaust manifold collector. I replaced the head gasket myself, so it’s possible I did it incorrectly (but pretty sure the head was torqued back on properly and stretch bolts still within tolerance). Anything else that would cause oil in the exhaust, before I take the head off (again).
  14. Cheers Gents Checked the cam timing using two bits of tube down 1 & 2 cylinders, sounds much better now. I was about 5 degrees out before, sounded like a tractor in need of a valve regrind. Its hesitating a lot on acceleration, I think that’s down to my idle jets being undersized (using Weber carbs).
  15. Many thanks gents. I’ll line it up with the pulley marks and check it by measuring the 1 & 2 piston positions.
  16. Cam timing using standard non Vernier pulleys. Think I mucked up all the timing marks when I changed the head gasket so I need to set my cam timing from scratch. It seems that the inlet / exhaust marks on the pulleys line up horizontally when the engine is at 90 BTDC, with the exhaust arrows pointing to the left. However, how do you find 90 BTDC? – I know there is a mark on the cam belt cover and another mark on the engine block that lines up with two marks on the crank sprocket , but that seems to be a bit hit and miss. Is it best to find TDC with a dti and rotate the crack back 90 degrees ? Many thanks for any help
  17. Thanks revilla for the exposed flywheel – thought I might have to separate the engine and bellhousing. Guess I should try and find a cam belt cover then, pity it looks a bit BDA-ish without it.
  18. Thanks Jonathan, yes the brown/yellow is the smaller cable. I just had an extra cable on the crossflow alternator. Hi revilla - it's an EU2 Edited by - Mikey UdaleClarke on 17 Jun 2014 13:08:40
  19. Also stupid question but the engine doesn’t have a cam belt cover, hoping this won’t be a problem, but was wondering what stops the cam belt slipping off the pulleys….
  20. I’ve swapped my old crossflow for a k series and have a few wiring ‘issues’ The alternator is a standard Rover item with a Lucas 3 pin block connector. So far its connected with the two large brown wires and the brown/yellow wire in the connection block, as the crossflow, but I can’t find a terminal on the alternator for the feed back to the dash indicator light. Pikie of alternator here I guess it does need one, but there doesn’t seem to be anything obvious to connect on to. Thanks for any help.
  21. K Series with Webers. Replaced my old crossflow with a k series and fired it up for the first time last weekend. Sounds more like a tractor than a K Series, although I’m hoping that’s down to 4 year old petrol in the tank, a hole in the exhaust manifold where the lambda sensor should be (plug on back order) and the webers needing a proper tune. But a few points – there is a section of exposed flywheel on the offside of the engine near the crank sensor, is there a blanking plate for this, or do they all have that. I’m struggling to find the oil pressure connection to the wiring loom, there seems to be a plug next to the oil filter, is this it? Compared to the old crossflow it’s a pretty tight fit, I reckon only 10mm between the water rail and the chassis cross member, the alternator is also pretty close to the chassis, but I’m using a standard Rover pulley at the moment, I’m guessing a Caterham pulley might pull the alternator in a bit. Pickie here. here http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/2620367019 The inlet manifold is a bit pony at the moment as we had to chop and change it to get the Weber filters to poke through the bonnet, but I might get it remade now I have all the right dimensions. Thanks for any help. Edited by - Mikey UdaleClarke on 17 Jun 2014 13:17:10 Edited by - Mikey UdaleClarke on 17 Jun 2014 13:22:02
  22. Not using injectors Stu. Running on Weber DCOE carbs. Edited to say –Hopefully will be running on DCOE carbs Edited by - Mikey UdaleClarke on 16 May 2014 12:04:54
  23. Many thanks Looks like I will be peering in through the starter motor hole or possibly the uncovered bit by the crank sensor and counting teeth. The Omex unit should be able to be remapped (fingers crossed), unfortunately I think I just specified it to be mapped to a 1.8 K series.
  24. I bought a flywheel of blatchat a few years ago (maybe a bit more actually) it was a lightened one but not the very light R500. Does anyone know if it has the 36-2 tooth pattern, or did Caterham ever change the tooth pattern on their flywheels. I need to check it will work with my Omex ignition unit. Unfortunately my one is now installed so I can’t check it easily.
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