paul richards

Fair enough.

Thanks Jonathan. I knew you’d be able to find it.

Unfortunately you can’t get caphead nuts.

I don’t have a spacer (I didn’t know there was one) but I simply used 2 pieces of 50mm x 50mm box section. I welded plate on the ends to blank them off and drilled the appropriate holes in them. An easy job that can be done by any engineering workshop if you can’t manage it yourself. There is a thread on here somewhere with pictures but I’m blowed if I can find it.

Push the side skin in.

That’s a deal. A blat to Blackpool?

Time for one last blat before it goes?

“swirl makes your left shoulder wet”. Not if you have a spare wheel.

You can drive it to IVA test but not to post build check.

Tried tape but doesn’t work on “Dusty” surface.

The doors on my car are in reasonable condition except that the material inside the part that bows out to give elbow room has become loose and saggy. I have armrests fitted and to gain access I have removed the armrest and slit the material where the armrest is located and this will be covered when the armrest is refitted. I thought it would be as simple as spraying some glue in to reattach the material to the door. However the material is thin and glue can easily soak into it and show on the inside of the car. Not very successful as the inside of the door is a bit like hardboard and over the years is quite “dusty”. Second attempt was to try and secure using double sided tape but the “dust” doesn’t allow thinks to stick to it. Has anybody successfully carried out a similar repair? I’m thinking I need to find some sort of size/primer and then a suitable glue. Any ideas/recommendations?

My half hood is from Soft Bits. No real problems but does blow up a little when in gale force winds (Scotland) and at 100mph+ (Germany).

Standard floors have reinforcement in the form of channels underneath where seats are mounted. Lowered floors are thicker gauge. In any event repair washers should also be used. 4 holes are used to secure seats. All should be used but may need a little fettling sometimes.

Just needs welding. I’ve had to do mine a couple of times.

Is it to be located in the top hose? If so installation is straightforward. It’s a little more complicated if an Apollo tank is also incorporated. I placed mine with the oil inlet/oulet going up and down with a 90 degree end on oil the hose that connects to the top. As it will sit on the chassis I used some sticky foam to stop it rattling. Picture is my installation with Apollo tank and top hose thermostat (just to make it more complicated).