Ainsley

Remember, they are not instructions, they are a guide 🙂

I seem to recall they were metric, the only imperial were the ones that go through the rubber on my 2024 car.

Be aware, they all need to stick out of the bottom the same length, I believe one of the bolts in the kit may be longer as it originally had to cope with the engine earth strap being fitted. That is no longer advised so one bolt may be longer. I ended up not realising till I noticed it sticking out further than the others and had the pain of cutting it to match in situ. Removing it is a worse pain as the engine mount ends up pulling the holes out of alignment and you spend ages loosening off all the engine mount bolts to line it all up.

Their decline in performance is gradual, its not like the suddenly become rubber death traps. Tyre companies don't want to get sued and do want to sell tyres. I would drive about on them and see what they are like. Personally Id wear them out before spending money on new ones. I watched an interesting comparison between 10 year old motorcycle tyres vs new ones. Semi pro motorcycle rider set some timed laps on track on both to find out about old tyres being terrible was true/noticeable/worth changing. He felt and timed the difference, it was a tiny difference. He was a very good rider on a race track where any tiny difference would be noticeable. On the road, with is massive variety of conditions and the fact you are not trying to balance on the very edge of grip for a lap time, I reckon its fine to just wear them out before changing them. At least go for a proper drive and see if you end up in a hedge 🙂

Ah, that makes sense.

What does an idle circuit do then ? Is this something that adjusts the mixture to adapt to altitude / cold air / cold engine etc and tweaks accordingly. So if the Caterham does not have one I can understand why you need to tweak it with your foot till its all at operating temp. Or is the issue caused by it being mapped to pass emissions ?

Mine didn't stall, but it varied its idle speed quite a bit. I ran it up to temp to check for leaks and that the fan came on. Adjusted the idle so it didn't stall. Then on a shake down run its idle wavered about a bit, like it was hunting for the correct setting. Then it went to Caterham for its PCB and they said its normal behaviour. Once I've had it back and put some more proper miles on it I will see if it settles down. If not I will send it off for throttle bodies and remap earlier than planned, which will sort that out.

You have eliminated the Diff cradle touching the boot floor support ?

Anyone got a Cat replacement pipe ?

It touches, but is it not just touching the padding ? The bell housing does the same.

I tried that when installing mine, it does not move.

It may be worth documenting what you did find and do to sort it. Others would benefit if you manage to reduce any NVH. I will probably be asking for advice after my first European road trip 🙂

My 420 is the same. But I think you are chasing a never ending tail. You will sort that bit which then highlights some other bit, which you sort that then highlights some other bit...........and on and on. I would just wear ear plugs and drive the nuts off it so you dont notice any noise/vibration/harshness.

Yup, just like a coke can basically 🙂

Its tight for sure. Basically I forced the body work in, kept the nut in one position and only rotated the bolt. I had to use an open spanner on the nut and a socket on the bolt head. Its all possible, but required some manual persuasion. The black trim does look good finishing off the open lines on the red body for sure.