Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Birkin S3 ZA.

Account Inactive
  • Posts

    587
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. The fuel pump should run for a few seconds as programmed in the ECU when the ignition is turned on, then will run constantly once the engine is cranking or running. There should be a relay that powers the fuel pump and I would think that is what is causing the problem. Chris
  2. I once had a leak the really tested me, i found it was coming from a small hole in the bell housing casting. right on the bulge where the gear selector shaft was
  3. Yes I know what you mean, I had a tran X box with straight cut gears with my Zetech that was good fun. The loud noise in fifth spoilt the fun when at just normal speeds though. Now moved over to a Duratec and Caterham six speed, this is on a new level of noises and fun Chris.
  4. You could try the single wire alternator they have a set voltage regulator about 14.8v, you might think that's high but my Omex 600 ecu runs very well on it duratec motor drives much smoother in traffic'
  5. Here is the type i have just fitted http://www.motorsport-tools.com/powerlite-universal-40-amp-lightweight-race-alternator.html it is the three wire type. I was using the single wire type but after loosing three Power master ones in as many weeks due to faulty build quality i thought it better to try another make, if you do join the p+ to the ignition wire it will drain your battery over time unless you have a isolator switch. Or if your feeling brave wire the ignition feed from p+ through a normally open oil pressure switch then it will give power to the alternator only when you have oil pressure. Maybe just run a new wire around the engine bay, you have until the spring time to finish it. Chris.
  6. I would not worry about the rattle at idle, if its wineing in all the gears except 4th then its time to look at it. Chris.
  7. Yes it does sound like the coils are a cheap copy, I only use helicoils but on the odd occasion i have used the cheap ones and I end up having the same kind of problems you have experienced. If you can get some genuine helicoils I am sure it would work, to get the old one out use a sharp pointed scriber to bend it then hook it out like a spring if the threads get damaged just put the tap through again. I always try and use the solid Wurth Timeserts for the smaller sizes they never fail and last a lot longer than helicoil inserts
  8. You can get the ones that fit the shocks on quad bikes, they are about the same spring size 2" Chris.
  9. I remember mine with the Webcon pro 4 system was 16 deg at 1000 rpm but only 5 deg at cranking speed. max advance was 26 deg max at 100% and 6000 rpm it did run 12:1 compression and had a fast burn rate so ran a few deg less than a lower compression motor would. Chris
  10. I would suggest you do not have it welded and retapped, the welding makes the aluminum soft and you will still have to fit a insert to make the threads strong enough again. I do lots of this kind of repairs for motorbike shops even fitting a 5 mm helicoil can be a problem, you have to break the tab off once installed and if its done wrong and the insert bends as it breaks off then the bolt will jam in the threads. I never have a problem with larger inserts 8mm plus, the better inserts are the timesert http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html its a solid inset and not like a spring made from a strong alloy. Chris.
  11. Brake cleaner and benzine will remove the oil if given a good soak for a few hours, the pressure plate will look like new when put in the dishwasher on the pans cycle And try one of the new flex hone on the surface before assembly.http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=6 great for discs and flywheels. Chris.
  12. Take it off and find a bolt the same thread size, then use a drill or lathe and give it a good polish with 800 wet and dry. That will remove the coating and then with metal polish. Chris.
  13. If it was mine I would weld it in place, the hard part is getting the oil out of the aluminium. over time it soaks in deep and can take a bit of heating cooling and cleaning a few times to get it clean. also the better machines can be set to etch the material more as you weld to keep it clean as you work, slowly weld the sides and get a good clean weld around the hole then join the sides to close the hole. Chris
  14. I always use Loctite 567 for sealing high pressure hydraulics 10,000 psi its very good and a bit thicker than the other products.
  15. When I polish the header pipes on our mx bikes they turn different blue colours, even bright sky blue that stays as long as you keep it clean. I don't think it will get hot enough to change colour unless you stick a cutting torch through it for some extra heat 😬
×
×
  • Create New...