CharlesElliott

The assembly guide is based on the reasonable approach to get the best angle for the straps under the seat. Unfortunately I have see crotch straps tear the floor in extreme conditions Charles PS My membership has just expired so will be my last post for a while / for ever

I'm certain that would actally be safer. The weak point is the thin aluminium floor, which can tear. With the bracket higher up more load is on the steel chassis tab.

Call or message Tony at TSK who would have painted it originally.

Yes, that's normal in my experience.

The wavy washer is there to take up tolerances and stop the harness bracket rattling. In theory the top hat is just taller than the harness bracket so the wavy washer sits on top the bracket to take up that slack. it doesn't add to the safety and in practice the tolerances of the brackets and fittings can vary a lot. I don't use them but in a race car the belt rattling or not is not a consideration.

They drill the chassis rail and weld in additional bosses, just like the existing ones for the harness straps.

Yes, normally the top of the screen frame should sit against the front of the foremost rollcage bar.

From my recollection of the work I did on the MEMS a long time ago, there were fast areas of memory that had to be used for certain data lookups - although the address space overlaps, perhaps it was where 'fast' memory was accessed?

You should only be using the 2" belts with a HANS. Without a HANS you need 3".

My '310' race car weighs about 530Kg with fluids, but no carpet, no lights and only one seat. The imperial chassis were definitely lighter than the new metric ones by maybe 15Kg but you would struggle a lot to get to 500Kg.

And I believe the air con control was what Caterham re-purposed for the shift light. EDIT: I see that you already had that thought. Cooling fan control is another thing I can see in the ECU, but it doesn't appear to be gear dependent.

Air con control?

I would suggest faulty earth. The dash instruments and wiper motor are earthed under the dashboard on the passenger side. Hard to get to without removing the scuttle to be honest. The other earths are in the front under the front brake union, battery to chassis and engine to chassis. Check them all and that the powder coat has been removed so that the connector can make good connection with the chassis.

Sorry to see the accident, am glad you are OK. It's hard to know from the pics whether the wishbones and/or tie rods broke and the chassis is broadly OK, or if there is related chassis damage. Replacing wishbones, rack, radiator, nosecone etc. is all pretty simple and low cost. Pretty much everything at the front end is easy - including minor chassis tweaks like the steering rack bridge bending. If the chassis is significantly damaged then you will a long front which will add a few thousand to the bill to strip the front and engine out, have Arch replace and then put everything back again.