Birkin S3 ZA.

The fuel pump should run for a few seconds as programmed in the ECU when the ignition is turned on, then will run constantly once the engine is cranking or running. There should be a relay that powers the fuel pump and I would think that is what is causing the problem. Chris

I once had a leak the really tested me, i found it was coming from a small hole in the bell housing casting. right on the bulge where the gear selector shaft was

Yes I know what you mean, I had a tran X box with straight cut gears with my Zetech that was good fun. The loud noise in fifth spoilt the fun when at just normal speeds though. Now moved over to a Duratec and Caterham six speed, this is on a new level of noises and fun Chris.

You could try the single wire alternator they have a set voltage regulator about 14.8v, you might think that's high but my Omex 600 ecu runs very well on it duratec motor drives much smoother in traffic'

Here is the type i have just fitted http://www.motorsport-tools.com/powerlite-universal-40-amp-lightweight-race-alternator.html it is the three wire type. I was using the single wire type but after loosing three Power master ones in as many weeks due to faulty build quality i thought it better to try another make, if you do join the p+ to the ignition wire it will drain your battery over time unless you have a isolator switch. Or if your feeling brave wire the ignition feed from p+ through a normally open oil pressure switch then it will give power to the alternator only when you have oil pressure. Maybe just run a new wire around the engine bay, you have until the spring time to finish it. Chris.

I would not worry about the rattle at idle, if its wineing in all the gears except 4th then its time to look at it. Chris.

Yes it does sound like the coils are a cheap copy, I only use helicoils but on the odd occasion i have used the cheap ones and I end up having the same kind of problems you have experienced. If you can get some genuine helicoils I am sure it would work, to get the old one out use a sharp pointed scriber to bend it then hook it out like a spring if the threads get damaged just put the tap through again. I always try and use the solid Wurth Timeserts for the smaller sizes they never fail and last a lot longer than helicoil inserts

You can get the ones that fit the shocks on quad bikes, they are about the same spring size 2" Chris.

I remember mine with the Webcon pro 4 system was 16 deg at 1000 rpm but only 5 deg at cranking speed. max advance was 26 deg max at 100% and 6000 rpm it did run 12:1 compression and had a fast burn rate so ran a few deg less than a lower compression motor would. Chris

I would suggest you do not have it welded and retapped, the welding makes the aluminum soft and you will still have to fit a insert to make the threads strong enough again. I do lots of this kind of repairs for motorbike shops even fitting a 5 mm helicoil can be a problem, you have to break the tab off once installed and if its done wrong and the insert bends as it breaks off then the bolt will jam in the threads. I never have a problem with larger inserts 8mm plus, the better inserts are the timesert http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html its a solid inset and not like a spring made from a strong alloy. Chris.

Brake cleaner and benzine will remove the oil if given a good soak for a few hours, the pressure plate will look like new when put in the dishwasher on the pans cycle And try one of the new flex hone on the surface before assembly.http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=6 great for discs and flywheels. Chris.

Take it off and find a bolt the same thread size, then use a drill or lathe and give it a good polish with 800 wet and dry. That will remove the coating and then with metal polish. Chris.

If it was mine I would weld it in place, the hard part is getting the oil out of the aluminium. over time it soaks in deep and can take a bit of heating cooling and cleaning a few times to get it clean. also the better machines can be set to etch the material more as you weld to keep it clean as you work, slowly weld the sides and get a good clean weld around the hole then join the sides to close the hole. Chris

I always use Loctite 567 for sealing high pressure hydraulics 10,000 psi its very good and a bit thicker than the other products.

When I polish the header pipes on our mx bikes they turn different blue colours, even bright sky blue that stays as long as you keep it clean. I don't think it will get hot enough to change colour unless you stick a cutting torch through it for some extra heat 😬

I have drained a couple of five speeds by drilling a 8,5mm hole in the bottom and tapping it 1/8 BSP. You have to drill a horizontal hole towards the rear of the main casing from the drivers side on the flat ridge in the centre of the housing about 50mm from the rear its a oil channel that drains the box 100%.

I run the 82 deg and it says between 80 and 85 even on track, the Ford Rangers are fitted with them as standard where do you think burton get them. I also run the under drive pulley set so flow at idle can be a bit slow, when the fan comes on if I increase the revs you can see the gauge drop back and the fan cuts off again.

After thinking about it first thing this morning the problem is 4th gear is getting tight on the main shaft. When I had stopped yesterday trying to get gears with the clutch pressed the main shaft was stopped due to the gear sticking on the shaft, only when I let the clutch out and the gears spin would it select some gears. I also remember I slight clack noise as I let the clutch out, that was the main shaft coming free again and being able select a gear if I was lucky. So that's why when trying to select 4th and it hits a stop like there is just no gear there at all, its because the gear is tight on the shaft and has stopped out of alignment so there is no way it will ever engage 4th. Until the gear can rotate enough so the teeth will line up for engagement, that's why double clutching would some times work. I will see if it stays free and just hope it was because its new or strip if it keeps doing the same thing.

I took the car out today for a run and the box was still not great, after 15 min driving it got worse. I stopped and it was hard to even get it in gear again, the peddle was firm to press and it was not a bleeding problem. I drove some more and it slowly got better and better and would change ok at 8500 rpm in all the lower gears, I hope the clutch friction plate is not about to come apart. Its a AP clutch the same as a R500 from race line and only done about 1000 miles, I will take it out again and see if it gives any problem this weekend.

I have removed a few with grease, it just has to be a thick type of axle grease and the shaft a few thou bigger than a spigot shaft. One good hit with a 4lb is all it takes for the hydraulic action to work.

I would have a guess at about 120 deg C maybe not for road cars but off road I think it would be close. Off road bikes rear shocks will get to that temp as well, to hot to touch and that's why there filled with nitrogen. Chris.

How much difference in the header size and length between the two exhausts? as I see the max torque is at different revs suggesting some thing has changed Chris

Hi Tom, I have replaced the clutch slave cylinder and removed the lid to have a look at 3rd and 4th syncs but there in the rear part of the housing. so I ordered new ones from Caterham and its now all back together sort of, just making a new oil tank and moving some water piping and the oil heater/cooler. If its still not right when I test it there will be enough time to remove it and repair it. Caterham recommend a 80w oil. Chris

I bought two spare 2,0 motors today that have been sitting in a garage for a few years, they came from a dealership that closed down. the Duratec has been striped and reassembled loose, valves springs and rings missing other wise every thing looks good and the head is the latest spec hi port. The other MZR has only been run only for a few hours, it looks like every thing is clean and new it has the VVT on it and does anyone run one with it connected and working? Other wise I might just remove it blank the holes and drill a oil feed for the journal, its identical to the Duratec only the VVT and a bit of a change on the head casting. It also has the latest head on it not bad for 170 pounds each 😬

Is maybe the oil or has the six speed given problems with forth gear?