Paul_Hedley

1997 Caterham 21 Red (the colour that best sets off the stunning shape) 2.0 Vauxhall ‘Red top’ engine – 187bhp (rolling road tuned by the two Steves) on Emerald K6 ECU Genuine 59k miles Top end refresh (new cams, buckets and springs) in 2016 Two sets of wheels – original ‘21’ 16inch wheels (shod with very little used Yokohama Advan Neova tyres), and lightweight 15inch Caterham Orcus wheels (shod with Uniroyal Rainsport tyres). Caterham leather seats (completely re-upholstered by Oxted Trimming) Interior retrimmed by Oxted Trimming Headlights replaced with clear lens Wipac units, greatly improving the beam pattern and night-time usability of the car New stepper motor dash instruments, allowing speedo calibration for different sized wheels, and much more accurate readings. LED change-up light, and LED warning lights on new dash panel SPA digital gauges for Oil (temp and pressure), water temp and voltage Chassis no.5 of the very short run of these special and individual cars. Vauxhall engine suits the car well (the original demonstrator had a VX) – quick enough but tractable and easy-going at low revs, but hot cams make it really shift further up the range. Was in decent nick when I bought it 7 years ago from Sevens and Classics at Brands Hatch, but now runs much better than before thanks to the remapping work, and various elements of tidying up and replacing wiring and electrical elements. All of the work done on the car since I have had it has made it a better and more usable car, which is after all, what the 21 was supposed to be. Large lever arch file of paperwork covering (with a short gap against a previous owner) the entire history of the car from original order paperwork to most recent parts and servicing. Two small star cracks in gelcoat on bonnet (caused by a previous mechanic who refused to accept responsibility), but apart from that, bodywork is in pretty good order for a 25 year old car. Kept garaged, and looked after in recent years by Peter at Spy Motorsport. Genuine reason for sale (and I’m worried that I might regret it ….). Lots of photos available (including underneath etc) Offers over £20k paulshedley@gmail.com 07775 675401

Thanks chaps, I think I have definitively traced the problem to the switch - replacement ordered.

I have, I think, a failed fog light switch. Is there an easy way to confirm whether the diagnosis is right? I have a halfrauds basic switch (3 terminal - +, ACC and earth) but I can't get the fog light to work at all. Either I haven't got the wiring right, or the problem is somewhere else (let's hope not!). Any way I can check the wiring? Is it worth a continuity check from red/orange wire to bulb terminal? Is there anything else I can check? Thanks in advance to those more experienced in electricals than I.

Thanks Alastair - I had looked briefly at this possibility, but it seems to cost almost as much to have the thing recalibrated as a new one (with up to date electronics in it). And I've also managed to get the new one pre-set to my current mileage, so OEM branding apart, I should have 'in keeping' instruments, but much better performing than the original fit. I have also just discovered that contrary to what I was originally told, the new sender is actually M8, so should fit the Caterham bracket. Will save me a job and some headaches ....

Thanks chaps. I had thought about trying to convert the gearbox drive for an electronic output to the new speedo (the reason for all of this is a new Racetech speedo to replace my non-configurable original which is, after a wheel change, miles out). Not sure how I would do the configuration of the pulses per mile from the gearbox output. Fitting would be easier though, as I'm having to make a bracket to mount the sender on the front hub - probably using the brake caliper mounts. Unfortunately, the Caterham part is the wrong spec for the racetech sender. I had thought of using the the steering arm mounting point, but I can't get a bracket to sit properly there, with my limited metalworking skills. Paul

I'm in the process of moving to an electronic speedo sensor from the current gearbox cable drive. Once I've switched over, does anyone know of a blanking cover/screw cap that would seal up the old cable drive from the gearbox? I don't want to leave it open, but leaving the old drive unit attached isn't great either. Thanks Paul

Can anyone who has the Caterham front wheel speedo sender bracket on their car (the one that bolts to the brake caliper mounts - https://caterhamparts.co.uk/senders/1206-bracket-front-wheel-speed-sensor.html?search_query=73450&results=1) tell me the spec of the threaded tube? My sender has an M10 thread, so it's a question of whether the Caterham bracket will fit, or whether I need to make one. Thanks Paul

Can anyone running the Caterham Orcus wheels recommend a wheelnut set (possibly locking, as I'm switching from HPC 16s where the nuts are covered)? Given the lovely anthracite finish, I think the standard nuts will look a bit naff (and mine, being a 97 car, are in far from good condition). I'll need to replace them all. What are others using? Thanks Paul

Hi Tony. Have sent you a pm. Paul

Does anyone have 4 decent 15in wheels (possibly as a result of change to 13s on a 7)? Thanks Paul

x2 Two Gates 6Jx14in minilite wheels shod with (rather aged but reasonably treaded) Yoko 021rs. Offers? Probably collection only from South oxfordshire.

Pair of brand new, boxed and unused Titon Caterham harnesses bought from Prima motorsport and never fitted. Fully FIA compliant till 2021. Cost over £200 new - £150 ono Full details below. Paul Titon 4 Point IVA Compliant FIA 8853 – 98 Approved Racing Harness Standard Adjuster Quick release buckle side - release to centre console side Colour - Red Shoulder Fixing - Anchor Plates Lap Fixing - Anchor Plates

Thanks everyone - a job for the weekend perhaps. Paul

Does anyone know if the differential ratio is normally stamped anywhere on the casing? I'm curious to know what is actually in my car. Thanks Paul

Thanks for this Stephen. I was considering removing the undertray, but it's very useful to have that experience of a negative effect of so-doing. To be honest, I wasn't looking forward to drilling out a very large number of rivets, and then filling in all of the holes .... If that's out, I had two other ideas (apart from possibly installing a barrier behind the rad to try to ensure that hot air from the rad goes upwards out of the nostrils in the bonnet rather than backwards into the engine bay). 1. wrapping the exhaust 2. ducting some air from the front of the car to blow across the exhaust primaries, though this would have less effect if the undertray is still in place. More thinking to be done I feel, possibly alongside a larger fan. Talking of lift at the front, I saw reference somewhere to someone using something akin to a small mudflap on the lower front edge of the front wheelarch, which apparently had a significant effect. Is this something you're aware of? I guess diveplanes night be another option. Paul