Tom_Arundel

I think it`s an old reference to sustained track use and old rubber type hoses (also applies to cambelts) which age harden and crack under stress conditions, I don`t think it is relevant to recent road use cars.

Has anyone investigated the need for a raised compression ratio, longer injection pulse and more ignition advance for E10 fuel as it should produce less power than straight 95 octane?

I don`t know about Ks but on sigmas you can just get your hand under the nose and screw the cap off and then fill up with a short length of hose and a funnel

I got fed up and fitted it with black sealant ....no problems....trim excess when set.

Check the plug gaps are correct...not as bought...should be about 1mm - 0.9mm

Have you got a rear exhaust box?

I had similar on a TVR (same engine) many years ago and it turned out to be sparks `tracking` down the plastic of the rotor arm and then down the distributor shaft . Scraped the arm clean to get home and then fitted new rotor arm.

We learn to do it when we are babies...scream, shout, throw the dummy out....some people never grow out of it they frequently end up as `managers`!

Had this happen to me and came to the conclusion that the alternator won`t keep up with demand if you run below 3000 rpm with lights on, so I run in 3rd/4th if necessary to keep the revs up. I think the alternator has a larger than standard pulley to reduce the stress at high (track) rpm. which makes it run slower at low revs. If you hit traffic or traffic lights etc on the way home you can spend enough time at low revs to take the edge off the battery and the immobiliser will drain the rest to a level where it won`t start.

I wonder if Caterham will do an ECU reflash for E10 as it probably needs different injection and ignition curves. (Hint, hint )

If you are actually doing 105mph at 7000 in 4th then you have a 4.4 diff fitted....which is ok for acceleration but not great for speed, should be 3.9

Just for fun.....Set car on level road/garage floor. Put chalk mark on bottom of tyre and floor/road. Move car until chalk mark comes around to bottom again and mark floor/road again. Measure distance between marks in feet. Do sums as follows (assumes 4th gear is direct drive 1:1 and diff is 3.9) 7000/3.9 = 1795 multiply by distance between marks we will say 6ft. = 1795 x 6 = 10,769 ft/min Divide answer by 5280 and multiply by 60 which will give speed for your tyre at 7000 rpm which is 122 mph. However....engine power peaks at 6800 and it take time to get there ..... so 6800/7000 = 0.97 x 122 = 118 mph...Enjoy Note. 13`` wheels usually have a smaller rolling rad. so less feet per rev. but it looks faster on the standard speedo setting !! Note 2. I easily passed a guy, at a track day, who was doing 135mph down the straight on `little wheels` .......I was doing max 120mph....felt good at the time

Is that with 13`` or 14`` wheels and what is the tyre section? I think rev limiter should be 7200 on a 125. 135 is a different engine with VCT. 125 upgrades to 140 supersport. So yes it should go better than that but not much. Where are you?

Caterham do/used to do, a stick on carpet kit that makes a difference if you don`t have one. I managed to fix my diff years ago but that is a long story!

Did you manage to fix it?

Sounds a bit like a head gasket problem......Sigmas are usually reliable gasket wise...Does the coolant show any signs of contamination?

Did you hit a bump? if so check/press inertial switch.

Unplug the sensor and see if it makes a difference.

They don`t normally spill, is the battery fluid level too high...should be just above the level marker in each cell

Why do you need to adjust it?

It`s not water, it`s diluted sulfuric acid....suggest you clean the entire area asap. Fit windscreen washer type tube in hole and let it vent below car

The other car you mentioned has fibreglass panels, they don`t buzz like a proper 7 does

Not tried a series 3 but SV prop will just go over the diff (in situ.) by enough to replace the gearbox seal. As a matter of interest, how many Caterhams DON`T have leaky gearbox seals? Is this an inadequate breather and or a prop nose issue ?

I was singing as loudly as I could whilst blatting the other day and I couldn`t hear a word of it.....probably a good thing

As a matter if interest....when I was involved in dyno testing F1 engines using uj propshafts they had to be out of line or the needle rollers in the joints would hammer the same spot on the bearing and self destruct in a very short time.....prop shafts should be run out of line to avoid this......here endeth the lesson