Just a thought....The inertia switch has a`snap` connector plug for the wiring. The locating lugs on mine were moulded the wrong way around which could enable the plug to easily disengage. I reported it to CC at the time but haven`t heard back. Might be worth checking the plug is locked into the inertia switch properly.
1. Fully open throttle by hand (mind your fingers!) Does it tend to stick open as you release it? 2. If it does, try easing off these 2 cap screws by a small amount (it helps to shorten the Alan key a bit) don`t go more than a sixth of a turn ( ACW 1 Alan key flat) as you could move the TPS and that would not be good! 3. If the throttle was stuck open, did it release when you eased the screws off? 4. try throttle for smooth open / close with with no sticking (by hand)
I know it`s too late but.......my MOT man said that as long as the split was sealed it would be ok and to use any black sealant (silicone etc.) They do tend to split/fret quite easily.
In my experience the problem is that the 2 throttle pot. screws are too tight by about a quarter of a turn which causes the spindle to lock at full throttle......crack them off a bit and give it a try. The TPS should have sandwich plates either side of it but some do not!
Cover has a reusable rubber seal but check it for small `nicks` and make sure it stays in position whilst you refit it (can get trapped). RTV or Hylomar the bearing caps (as you said). Torque 10Nm or 7 lb ft. All fairly straight forward.....enjoy
12 years with nothing done anywhere no additives, no take outs,and no problems. I think many owners get a bit OTT with unnecessary stuff, it`s just a car at the end of the day
As an aside....I put 2 spanner flats on mine to avoid the hex socket/De Dion tube, so I can fill it thro` the boot floor without jacking the car up.....One of my better mods!
and, probably,- better roads, no potholes, no cats eyes, no loose manhole covers, no speed humps, bricks, timber, etc.,.....not to mention Hedgehogs!!!