Tom_Arundel
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Everything posted by Tom_Arundel
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Caterham diffs. are out of the airflow and get hot which significantly reduced the oil viscosity and that affects the noise. All the pre-loads go out of the window as it gets hot. The oil itself gets `mangled` when driven hard so it does pay to change it. It is only 1ft. from your ear! Carpet helps a bit! I did adjust mine in situ. by trial and error and ended up 6 notches tighter, which is quite a lot but also quite a lot quieter! There is also a possibility of metal to metal contact (spacer washers mostly) and there have been loose mounting bolts. `Unusual English engineering` is why we bought Caterhams...isn`t it?
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Don`t use it enough? No isolator? Banners have short lives.
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That`s why I bought a 7 in the first place....so I could spend the rest of my life taking it apart and fixing it!
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I would have thought that you would have felt the `tramlining` if the rears were slack. Is it possible that the MOT report is wrong and it should say the front bearings? Front bearings frequently need adjusting and it`s easy.....Jack it up and give them a rattle!
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A picture says a thousand words.......
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Don`t know about anyone else but I drilled a small hole at the bottom of the bell housing to check for/drain any oil.
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E10?..........Temp. it was cold a month ago............Check coolant level.........Check throttle is fully open.........Check air filter element....etc......etc.
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Someone put a kipper on your exhaust manifold ?
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Seized brake piston?
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Yes if you are stuck.
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Don`t start up with your foot on the throttle, it confuses the ECU. Watch out for overtight TPS mounting screws stopping throttle return
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150s tend to go out of balance between the pairs of throttle bodies as well as the TPS tending to be unreliable (Ford part). Caterham also did a map upgrade years ago. They are a bit of a fiddle to get right but it can be done.
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Where are you?
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I don`t know if it still applies but doors were left off for IVA and mirrors fitted on screen stalks...also take some spare cable ties with you just in case.
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What type of 1.6 Sigma....fixed cam.....125.....140.....150...etc? How many miles? How hard do you drive it? Have you tried a small adjustment of the throttle stop screw (on the throttle body)? Does it `Hunt` at idle? If it is a 150, are the throttle bodies in sync.? Check plug gaps are 0.9mm not 1.3mm Easy map should have transition 0-1 at idle and it is very hard to get right
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Yes!
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Ah! Gone are the days when you could just pour in some calcium carbide and then pee on it and light it up
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It`s a standard Ford part (you can get it from your local dealer) and will do a 100k on a fiesta. The Caterham service interval is a bit severe and is for the `rubber band` on a K series! I changed mine (Sigma) at 30k when I put new cams in and there was no obvious wear or tear on the old belt which had done many track days etc..
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I always go to MOT with aeroscreen fitted, they don`t check for wipers or washers as not reqd. for aero. and therefore bottle also not reqd.
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Please note the `13` denotes a gap of 1.3mm which could cause coil problems at high revs. Gap should be 0.9mm
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Also...you don`t need all the taper threads on the plug, they can be shortened down to the core diameter by about 6mm, which gives better engagement and is quite a lot less fiddling
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And a small person passenger for added traction..... and always best to do it on a down slope with a tail wind
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Interesting.......precision or accuracy, that is the question
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I don`t know the workings of a Dragy but it includes an accelerometer. In my experience accelerometers are sensitive to orientation i.e. must be orientated exactly to the direction of acceleration......exactly horizontal and in line with the direction of travel. If it is tipped up or down by a small amount you will get errors in the readings. I doubt that GPS is `change of position` sensitive enough to calculate tenths of seconds.
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Sounds ok, check the gaps at 0.9mm - 1.0mm
