JonPivo

Hello, Following two annoying conversations at MOTs about the dimly glowing engine check light, I decided to follow the method and remove the wire linked to the tacho. Seems to have worked for me. The wire in question was brown/grey on my 2019 310R, and I removed it from the connector rather than cutting in case I got the wrong one! On the wiring diagram it is wire BU153. Thanks to original poster for sharing! Jon

Brake discs are fine.

Thanks Geoff, that's useful. Yep out of warranty now so not expecting much from Caterham though I will try. Here are a couple of pictures of the drive shaft. I don't really know what I am looking for in terms of excessive wear here, so any thoughts welcome!

My car is a 2019 310R so definitely has the new bearings. When I say both bearings I mean both the Off and near sides of car, ie both rear wheels/hubs. I haven't touched the hub nuts since the build and I torqued them correctly and I specifically asked them to be checked at the post build check. Car has been through two services at caterham dealers since then and I would assume (probably wrongly that they would have checked for play in the bearings then). I have stripped back the near side and there is a lot of movement in the bearing. I will look at the other side later but suspect it will be the same. Does this seem like a defect in the parts or is it something I could have done wrong during in the build? Note, I live near Stirling in Scotland and the nearest dealer is Oakmere so I don't have easy access to any input from caterham. Cheers, Jon

The mechanic showed me the issue and I have rechecked it back at home. Jon

The mechanic who did the MoT showed me the play on both sides. He tried tightening the nut and though it moved a wee bit the play remained. Jon

Thanks for the comments so far. To confirm it is a 2019 car so has the newer sealed bearings. The hubs were torqued up as per the manual and assume (always dangerous!) would have been checked at the post build check.

Hello, Popped my 310R in for its first MoT this morning and was surprised to find it fail due to excessive play in the rear bearings. I last checked about 6 months ago and they seemed fine. A couple of questions: 1. It feels odd that both bearings fail at the same time and after less than 5k miles. It has had a couple of track sessions but otherwise it is had an easy life. Is there something that I could have done wrong during the build that could have contributed to the failure, or is it possible the bearings were not fit for purpose in the first place? 2. How easy is to change the bearings myself and does anyone have any tips/advice on how to do it? Thanks, Jon

Hi all, Quick update on my car's idling issues... After trying various things, I came to the conclusion it was probably a faulty lambda sensor (unplugging it made no difference to the way the engine ran). Once we were allowed to visit England again, I took the car down to Oakmere who checked it over and replaced the sensor under warranty. Engine is running well now - starts first time from cold and no more oscillating revs! Thanks to all of you who gave advice. Jon

I gave you the throttle site reading, the TPS (assume this what is labelled throttle angle increasing) is 0.41. Do I adjust this by altering the throttle stop only? Or is there something else I should tweak?

Hi Colin - TPS is 0.0 with just the ignition on. Once started, with no pressure on the throttle, it mostly stays at zero with an occasional flicker to 0.4.

Thanks Chris. I had another play with Easimap to see what I could see with the lambda sensor - using the input template that easimap defaults to, I get no lambda panels and there is no input available to add. If I use a randomly selected one (9A6ae91.ec2) this does have some lambda outputs including warm-up timer that counts down from 20 seconds following start-up. Once up to temperature the only lambda value that changes is 'Wide Range Lambda 1', measured in mA. There is an additional panel available, labelled 'WR Lambda1 RI Error', which just shows a constant resistance value of 490 Ohms. Is there a particular input template that I should be using? Or is the fact no other outputs are available suggesting the probe is dead?

Thanks for the advice, Tom. Following you're steps here's what I find... 1. When cold I find the car won't start without a little bit of gas; it just turns over, almost catches but then stops. 2. I can't see any obvious air leaks; I will have a more thorough check later this week. 3. I have disconnected the battery for a bit so hopefully the ecu has reset ( any ideas how long this takes, i.e. is it pretty much instant or does it need no power for several minutes?). 4. I will disconnect the lambda sensor when i go out next and see if there's any difference in behaviour. I thought this only had an impact once the engine is hot, so shouldn't be an issue at start up? On the the lambda sensor, how should this show up on easimap? I have to added it to my 'dashboard' but it always shows an error. Not sure if this is a real error, or because I have the wrong config file, or the ecu doesn't share this info? I also get an 'unknown error' coming from the ecu at all times, again I am not sure if this just because the ecu is locked or if it is a genuine issue. By hunting, I mean the revs oscillate once the throttle is released, usually dropping down to a level where the engine almost stalls before recovering a bit and 'bouncing' around for a few seconds. This can cause 'kangarooing' if changing down, which is fun...more of a problem is when edging out of a junction, it is very easy to stall, usually at just the wrong moment! Finally, is anyone able to provide a bit more detail on the correct setting for the throttle pot for the 310, and a bit more info on how to adjust it? As you can probably tell I am quite new to all this, so please assume I know nothing! Cheers,

Hello, I am after some help adjusting the idle on my 310R. My 7's idle seems to be on the low-side with the car often taking a bit of effort to start when cold and once going it doesn't maintain an even tick-over. If I blip the throttle the engine almost stalls as the revs fall (down to about 500 according to Easimap) before recovering and 'hunting' for bit before settling down a little (at around 800 to 860). This also happens when driving, making the car tricky to drive in town. I can see various threads covering this topic but most seem to be for different models. I have tried adjusting the throttle stop on the throttle body and increased the idle from about 800 to nearer 950 but the hunting was just as bad. I would take it to an approved dealer to get it sorted but there is no dealer in Scotland currently... Is anyone able to offer any advice? Thanks, Jon