Tom_Arundel

Yes! Sigma is so much better! The one you want is available online at many places. You may need the timing pin as well

It fits where the starter motor was when you have taken the starter motor off.....mine`s a sigma but should be similar. Correction....I see that the starter motor fitting is completely different so it won`t fit!

I`ve got this set if it helps....but may be what you already have.

Are you trying to undo the crank nose bolt? If so you can lock the pulley with a bar and `pegs`

I`ve probably got one in the shed.....where are you? I think it came from the local parts place

Sigmas use/need fully synthetic oil

It`s usually 3rd that goes crunch. Maybe bleed the clutch slave cylinder and check that your seat position is getting full travel on the clutch pedal. It is important that the correct oil is in the box, if in doubt change it, the wrong oil will wear out the syncro. cones. 3rd-2nd is a different syncro. cone from 1st- 2nd so maybe worn. P.S. unless in traffic I don`t use 1st gear, the car will pull away just as quick in 2nd if you use low revs. I did a 0-60 back to back test using 1st -2nd and 2nd only and the times were identical! Actually, most of the time it`s a 3 speed box just like the early cars !!

Mines been `baggy` for 10 years but never failed MOT

Cavitation is possible as the internal surface was eroded but not rusty.......interesting thought

SV should have a spacer (about 25mm long) at the top between the damper/spring top and the mounting bush.....check it is in place!

The conversation with Ford suggested that later/other models do have threaded plugs and that the steel ones are a reliability issue. They are 25mm dia. but I will press in a bung with an extractor thread in it and then punch a couple of dings in the rim. `Mechanical fuse`...Well they did that!! Core plugs fill the holes left by the CORE PRINTS during the casting process. Core prints are the support system of the sand core that forms the inside of the casting /water jacket, they extend into and are supported by the outer mould.....Just saying It is back on the road now, took about 4hrs 3 litres of Ford antifreeze £36 !!!!! 4 core plugs £9-60 !!!!!

Awful, not awful as in full of awe which would have been OK

Ford say it`s a common problem. I think that the core plugs are above the vent level and air/vapour gets trapped below them hence the corrosion. I shall replace them with home made aluminium bungs. Coolant - Ford red stuff. Ford part F1455107 012242 plug (price suggests they are made of gold!) It was quite funny dis-assembling the Caterham in Aldi`s carpark with customers making comments! GT40 was Virgins (ancient Superperformance) `experience day` car and the worst maintained vehicle I have driven...awful in the wrong sense! `Instructor` and organisation weren`t much better!

My 2010 sigma steamed to a halt at Aldi`s yesterday, where I bought some water to fill it up. I thought it was the head bleed hose joint but today I found it was the head core plugs had corroded through. The spark plug gallery was entirely full of water which found its way up through the cam cover and exited at the back of the head adjacent to the bleed hose. It never misfired which was amazing! I removed the cam cover and pressurised the water system and a jet about 2ft high came from the rear core plug ( between the spark plugs). Core plugs came out ok, they were so thin that I just pushed a screwdriver straight through them. So tomorrow I hope a visit to Ford will find some new ones and I`ll be back on the road!. I get the impression that the core plugs are above the coolant level in the head and suffer corrosion because of that......So, any coolant stains at the back of the head near the ign. coils may well be core plug problems. I suggest that anyone with an older sigma gets the core plugs replaced......it`s not a big job but a failure could be! P.S. Drove a GT 40 today.....Terrible

Could be as you say but the rear brakes can (and frequently do) cook the seals on track days if you put the handbrake on in the pits or don`t do a cool down lap.....just saying

I use Hylomar cos it`s what we used on the F1 engines and it was made by RR and I have `some` lying around

I use Hylomar but any `gasket goo` will do (not much required). Just a wipe over with a cloth....a drop of petrol helps but we are not allowed to do that these days Make sure the seal remains in its groove and is not trapped/pinched when refitting it.

It is easy but.....It is a rubber seal that fits in a groove in the cover, not a gasket. If it is not damaged it doesn`t need replacing. Where the cover fits over the cam bearing caps it needs a bit of sealant in the corners...that is probably what is leaking. So...whip it off.....1/2 hr. Clean it up and check for nicks/ damage. Put sealant over bearing caps. Refit cover 1hr.total.

They are not leaks, they are part of the rear basket frame corrosion protection system (RBFCPS for short) as designed by Lotus (Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious)

I suspect the higher numbers are not showing so 999 actually goes to 1000 (or 39000) but only show the 0s

I suspect the higher numbers are not showing so 999 actually goes to 1000 (or 39000) but doesn`t show it

No problem with either readout except the recorded mileage goes back to zero on both readouts, so what should read 38543 never gets beyond 999 before going back to 0 again. Trip goes to 999 then 0 as it should. It`s like having two trips. I did talk to Caerbont a couple of years ago, they scratched their heads and said to take it in to them, which I should have done over the winter but sunny days are hard to miss.

Caerbont electronic...no problem with the speed readings

Any idea why my 7s odometer keeps going from 999 to 000 and counting again. 999 is a correct reading but it fails to go above it and returns to 0 Its not on trip.

Isn`t that the way they fired the first atomic bomb?