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Tom_Arundel

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Everything posted by Tom_Arundel

  1. Tom_Arundel
    Where do you live?
  2. Tom_Arundel
    Sigma steering column goes through the exhaust manifold ...does it touch one of the pipes? If so rotate rack slightly to get clearance.
  3. Tom_Arundel
    As a matter of interest, give the end of the prop shaft a good vertical tug- rattle at the gear box end and see how much it moves. I think that a lot of seals leak because there is too much clearance between the prop nose and the gearbox bearing sleeve causing the prop to vibrate in the seal. Not normally serious but maybe the cause of a leak
  4. Tom_Arundel

    Oil leak !

    Tom_Arundel replied to kiloromeo's topic in TechTalk

    # 31 sounds like it`s got too much beer in it !
  5. Tom_Arundel

    ECU pipe

    Tom_Arundel replied to babymerc's topic in TechTalk

    The 125 sigmas connected to a boss on the underside of the rear of the inlet manifold but I think on the 270 this is blanked off and the pipe is just open to air. Shouldn`t flap around though!
  6. Tom_Arundel
    I`ve got a set of Yoko 21s on 14`` rims in the garage in Rugby if any good to you.
  7. Tom_Arundel
    On mine and several other sigmas it was caused by the 2 screws holding the TPS in position being too tight. A slight easing off of the screws fixed it.
  8. Tom_Arundel
    I`ve had that happen on a Sigma more than once. The Banner has quite low capacity, it`s ok for normal running but won`t last under high loads e.g lights and wipers on and running below 3K rpm.. If i`m driving with lights etc. on I run in a lower gear to keep above 3K and make every effort to avoid traffic but I realise that is not always possible. So yes there is a problem keeping the alternator running fast enough to charge the battery when it is under load in traffic. The problem is how to avoid over speeding the alternator at high rpm., a smaller pulley may fix the low speed problem but cause a high speed one. Keeping the revs up may help.(or a much bigger battery)! There have been several posts recently about glimmering ign. lights
  9. Tom_Arundel
    I suspect its TADTS as mine does as well. Could be the way the engine is mounted, road cars tend to have a third top link I don`t go to max rpm. the power curve drops quite rapidly above 7k `Short shifting` at 6800 gets you there quicker. Stress goes up as the square of rpm., 6800 to 7500 is about 23% more stress. The engine may have the Ford flywheel and be balanced to production tolerances which don`t anticipate 7500rpm And then there`s.........!!! Let us know what you find, if anything
  10. Tom_Arundel
    Just adding lightness as Colin would want!!
  11. Tom_Arundel
    The TPS is really difficult to set against throttle opening at idle...it`s so sensitive that just tightening the screws can upset it. It takes a lot of trial and error to get it right. It needs to be done hot.
  12. Tom_Arundel
    Did you get it sorted?
  13. Tom_Arundel
    Maybe they changed it on later cars but the 125 MAP sensor was always connected to the manifold so check the connection on the manifold (stub pipe at rear of inlet manifold underneath) is blanked off properly. (maybe you have) Check for free return movement from WOT if you fit a new TPS (sticky throttles are quite exciting!!!)
  14. Tom_Arundel
    Maybe replace the diff seal at the same time.
  15. Tom_Arundel
    Check for air leaks/split pipes on intake manifold especially the rubber pipe to the MAP sensor (usually splits under the manifold) Disconnect the lambda sensor under the driver`s foot box and drive without it as a first try. TPS is very sensitive to idle setting adjust with caution but it does cause `KaNgArOoing`. Don`t overtighten the TPS screws as they have caused the throttle to jam open!!! There is a balance between throttle opening and TPS reading which is hard to get right. Avoid changing the idle screw on the throttle body. Did it get wet in Wales?
  16. Tom_Arundel
    pictures?
  17. Tom_Arundel
    Did you have a passenger....they sometimes make grinding noises....sorry!
  18. Tom_Arundel
    So is petrol !!! Scooter mirrors from a motorcycle shop removed from stalk and screwed through PERSPEX
  19. Tom_Arundel
    Cor! Having `done` Iceland I wouldn`t want to do it on a bike. You can end up in the middle of nowhere in freezing fog. It maybe ok on the main road but off road was quite a challenge even in a 4x4 with a heater! Nice bike though!
  20. Tom_Arundel
    Nope, Perspex....Different properties/composition and much easier to form to shape. Also Perspex aero screen made in the shed.
  21. Tom_Arundel
    Hinges are blocks of aluminium hacksawed and filed to shape with brass pins Loctited in to drilled holes....nothing flash Use cardboard to make a profile pattern then copy onto perspex. Use hot air gun or good hairdryer (carefully, don`t overheat) on perspex and ease into shape. Take care not to break through too quickly when drilling holes as it can crack perspex (semi blunt drill is ok) I had some perspex lying around from other jobs but you may get some offcuts if you ask around I made a small turn clip at the bottom to secure it and to it will open to get my foot out of the car! Door just clips on...no poppers!!
  22. Tom_Arundel
    Get some perspex and make your own
  23. Tom_Arundel
    Do people collect these or do they drop off?...I stayed at a B&B where the owner said a 7 was his dream car and he had always wanted one.......When I got home a cap was missing.....never lost one before or since....makes me wonder! PS I`ve got 3 yellow ones spare now!!
  24. Tom_Arundel
    No tight bends/curves in the cable line
  25. Tom_Arundel
    Fat boys have better traction!! But it`s still about the same time as the record for downing 2 litres of ale!
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