jcaswell

Ok I opened the second bottle and added til it ran out filler hole. Took about a 25% of the second bottle. Fully filled and driving no leaks.Cheers Jamie

My diff hold 1.1 litres, according to the specs ,is one litre enough . I am using Motul and the bottle is . 1 litre and expensive. Not that I'm cheap though.I do have a second bottle.Do I really need to open the second bottle to add .1 of a litre.

Thanks guys and the pictures from John were great. Now to bleed the brakes and take a drive. Cheers Jamie

Just got a set of stainless brake hoses. There is a small plastic bag with a nut, a copper washer and one fitting.The lines have a swivel fitting on on end. I used the nut from the small pack on the end of hose that does not swivel and threaded into the three way brass connector and tightened the nut. The small fitting from the bag I screwed into the rear caliper with copper washer between fitting and caliper body. Then attached swivel end of hose to fitting and tightened.I just need to know I have done this right before I add fluid. Thanks in advance. All input appreciated.

I need to drain my diff of lubricant. It's a Ford LSD 7 inch diff. I have the level / fill plug out. Do any of the rear cover bolts remove to drain the diff.

Looks like I need a left side axle. What are my options to buy from, Caterham on line, Redline Components any others. Also the large nyloc nut on the end of the axle is it reusable.

Hi, yes play in the outer drive shaft and the joint. Wheel bearings are fine. Looseness in the joint. I have the drive shaft out and see there is some clicking noise in the outer joint.

My car is 1995 imperial chassis, De Dion, 5 speed ,Ford diff LSD. When diving and take power on and off I can hear a knocking in the drive line. I have been going through a systematic check. Wheel bearing are good no play.Checked mounting of diff all seems correct. I have found a bit of play in the left rear axle. At the wheel end {outside joint} I can get 1/8" to 3/16" of movement by pushing up on that joint. The joint at the diff end can't really see any movement or induce any clicking sounds. Only the left side axle has the movement mentioned the other side seams fine. What are my options repair or replace? Thanks in advance. Jamie.

Ok thanks every one for help. I got new Caterham rear springs part #71198 progressive . They told me the top and bottom mounts were ok as the new springs were the same inside and outside dimensions as the old race springs. Everything fits great just adjusting the spring perches for proper front and rear ride height. Thanks to everyone for their input.

Ok, I needed to know what I have and how to work with the shocks. I am in Canada so no body close to me offers flat floor set up for Caterhams. When looking at the bottom of the shock under the adjustment rings for the springs there is a piece with flats on the sides and another piece below that, is that a spacer about 1/ 1/2 " that can be removed. Before I buy springs I will lengthen the spring mounting and reinstall and test.

I have a 1995 Caterham S3 Imperial chassis, De Dion. My car is a bit of a hybrid with new chassis. Has wide track front suspension and Watts linkage on the rear.This how I received when I when I bought it. I would like to lower the ride height at the rear. I have HPC wheels with standard size tires for these rims. My shocks do have the threaded pieces on the tube and two lock rings. They seam to be at there lowest setting already. Please see pictures. .Any input gladly welcomed.

The re-plumbing is done all new silicone hoses fitted, fresh anti freeze.and a new 90 degree thermostat. All is great have heat on demand now runs at around 90 degrees on gauge and lower on the road. Filled system from the expansion tank at the front and top heater connection no air locks and very Happy with out come. Thanks to everyone who offered assistance.

Here is my heater valve I have installed, which hose should be the inlet to the heater. I have an old valve in a box that has and arrow for flow on the valve which is the bottom hose in picture. Is that correct or not.

This is what I have come up with. My header tank is at the front. To eliminate one run of hose to the alloy pipe below rad I T connected going from heater and by pass hose and take one hose to front.

OK thanks every one who responded. I now see its a plumbing issue. Now have diagram to go by. Will let everyone know how goes when I re-plumb. I have an aluminum piece for my lower rad hose . It only has two take offs. I will try and get a third welded in place or I will need a metal T pice to work this out. Any one know where I can get 15MM x15mm x15 mm stainless or T 5/8"x 5/8"x5/8" will work as well. Thanks Jamie.