jcaswell

Ok I opened the second bottle and added til it ran out filler hole. Took about a 25% of the second bottle. Fully filled and driving no leaks.Cheers Jamie

My diff hold 1.1 litres, according to the specs ,is one litre enough . I am using Motul and the bottle is . 1 litre and expensive. Not that I'm cheap though.I do have a second bottle.Do I really need to open the second bottle to add .1 of a litre.

Thanks guys and the pictures from John were great. Now to bleed the brakes and take a drive. Cheers Jamie

Just got a set of stainless brake hoses. There is a small plastic bag with a nut, a copper washer and one fitting.The lines have a swivel fitting on on end. I used the nut from the small pack on the end of hose that does not swivel and threaded into the three way brass connector and tightened the nut. The small fitting from the bag I screwed into the rear caliper with copper washer between fitting and caliper body. Then attached swivel end of hose to fitting and tightened.I just need to know I have done this right before I add fluid. Thanks in advance. All input appreciated.

I need to drain my diff of lubricant. It's a Ford LSD 7 inch diff. I have the level / fill plug out. Do any of the rear cover bolts remove to drain the diff.

Looks like I need a left side axle. What are my options to buy from, Caterham on line, Redline Components any others. Also the large nyloc nut on the end of the axle is it reusable.

Hi, yes play in the outer drive shaft and the joint. Wheel bearings are fine. Looseness in the joint. I have the drive shaft out and see there is some clicking noise in the outer joint.

My car is 1995 imperial chassis, De Dion, 5 speed ,Ford diff LSD. When diving and take power on and off I can hear a knocking in the drive line. I have been going through a systematic check. Wheel bearing are good no play.Checked mounting of diff all seems correct. I have found a bit of play in the left rear axle. At the wheel end {outside joint} I can get 1/8" to 3/16" of movement by pushing up on that joint. The joint at the diff end can't really see any movement or induce any clicking sounds. Only the left side axle has the movement mentioned the other side seams fine. What are my options repair or replace? Thanks in advance. Jamie.

Ok thanks every one for help. I got new Caterham rear springs part #71198 progressive . They told me the top and bottom mounts were ok as the new springs were the same inside and outside dimensions as the old race springs. Everything fits great just adjusting the spring perches for proper front and rear ride height. Thanks to everyone for their input.

Ok, I needed to know what I have and how to work with the shocks. I am in Canada so no body close to me offers flat floor set up for Caterhams. When looking at the bottom of the shock under the adjustment rings for the springs there is a piece with flats on the sides and another piece below that, is that a spacer about 1/ 1/2 " that can be removed. Before I buy springs I will lengthen the spring mounting and reinstall and test.

I have a 1995 Caterham S3 Imperial chassis, De Dion. My car is a bit of a hybrid with new chassis. Has wide track front suspension and Watts linkage on the rear.This how I received when I when I bought it. I would like to lower the ride height at the rear. I have HPC wheels with standard size tires for these rims. My shocks do have the threaded pieces on the tube and two lock rings. They seam to be at there lowest setting already. Please see pictures. .Any input gladly welcomed.

The re-plumbing is done all new silicone hoses fitted, fresh anti freeze.and a new 90 degree thermostat. All is great have heat on demand now runs at around 90 degrees on gauge and lower on the road. Filled system from the expansion tank at the front and top heater connection no air locks and very Happy with out come. Thanks to everyone who offered assistance.

Here is my heater valve I have installed, which hose should be the inlet to the heater. I have an old valve in a box that has and arrow for flow on the valve which is the bottom hose in picture. Is that correct or not.

This is what I have come up with. My header tank is at the front. To eliminate one run of hose to the alloy pipe below rad I T connected going from heater and by pass hose and take one hose to front.

OK thanks every one who responded. I now see its a plumbing issue. Now have diagram to go by. Will let everyone know how goes when I re-plumb. I have an aluminum piece for my lower rad hose . It only has two take offs. I will try and get a third welded in place or I will need a metal T pice to work this out. Any one know where I can get 15MM x15mm x15 mm stainless or T 5/8"x 5/8"x5/8" will work as well. Thanks Jamie.

yes that is how it is plumbed.

Here's a couple of pictures of my setup.

yes one from front thermostat, on the motor and the other to the rear of the thermostat on the engine motor both go to the heater valve.

Thanks for your reply. Could you send me any pictures of your set up. Mine is how I received the car and I'm not sure its correct, it seems to be correct. There is a noticeable different in the temp of each heater hose when car is fully warm. The one hose comes from thermostat side of housing and is the lower hose an the heater valve. The top hose on the heater valve goes to the back side of the thermostat housing on the engine.

Hi thanks for your response. What degree thermostat do you run?

Hello all, first off my car is a bit of a hybrid. Its a post 1996 chassis, 2 litre zetec on jenvey 45 throttle bodies.There is a fresh air heater. When driving my car early spring and summer monthes it hardly gets to 80 degrees and hardly any heat just barely warm air from heater not worth anything. I started out removing the 82 degree thermostat and installed an 88 degree hardly any improvement in heat. I do not have any air locks in cooling system .My heater take offs are from the nylon thermostat housing on the rear of the motor. I am using a newer aluminum radiator with electric cooling fan. When having the car idle in driveway and bring up to operating temperature it heats up to about 95 degrees the electric fan kicks in cools down to 90 degrees and cuts out.When I drive It never gets above 80 degrees and still hardly any heat. Any zetec owners have any hints on how high a temperature thermostat I could use or do I have a plumbing problem. All seems right the way everything is plumbed. I could send pictures off all my connections in the cooling system.

I pulled the steering shaft into the inside of car with steering wheel attached. The top bushing came out the bottom one stayed and the white plastic part is off . Can it be glued the white plastic part back in place or fully replace bushing. How do you install new bushing in lower column. The bushing is the standard one Caterham supplies.

Will consider cars from early 1990's up to 2000 year . De dion rear, Prefer 1.8 up to 2 litre cars, 5 or 6 speed, cycle fronts, full weather equipment, heater , if you have one to sell or know someone considerering selling send them my way. Have cash waiting for the right car. Cheers Jamie.