John Vine

Interesting! Thanks for the update. JV

To be sure you diagnose the problem, can I suggest you try these one at a time? JV

Which, of course, can be anywhere you choose, including your home address. JV

Well, that's unusual. I wonder if the insurer realises the implications of what they've put in writing? My understanding is that the only trip you can legally make prior to registration is to the IVA. JV

I think the angle of the photo is misleading. The lower edge of the showercap is about level with the bonnet edge. JV

The straps hook under the reversing and fog lights (at least, mine do). JV

I'm with DanRo. That's exactly what I do: JV

Re the CRB, the correct one is made by INA (p/n F202994). It was designed to fit the Ford clutch fork and will fit snugly (Ford FINIS 6124270, p/n 83BB 7548 AA). The SKF one that CC supplies will work fine but tends to be a little sloppy on the fork. The INA part is not so easy to find these days but there are alternatives (such as LuK). The O-ring for the selector shaft only applies to the 6-speed box (no gasket). Agree about the washer tube for the pivot pin. IIRC, the original sleeve was rubber. Personally, I'd try Redline for the lot. JV

That's good. If you had a cable clutch, I'd have suggested some pre-load for the CRB (clutch release bearing) to avoid premature failure.

Thanks for the update. Yes, it's a good idea to get the box completely refurbed. The release bearing show signs of loss of grease (unless all that gunge is from your oil leak). The clutch fork should be ok provided the slot where it fits onto the pivot pin isn't worn. And if they're worn, replace the pivot pin and plastic sleeve too. Is your clutch cable-operated or hydraulic? JV

Well, I fitted the new sender this morning, along with a bleed tee. The new sender has definitely fixed the original problem, although the gauge still under-reads by about 3C, compared to the coolant temperature as reported by Easimap: But I can live with that. JV

It's supposed to be harder wearing. It'll also need crimping lightly to fit. JV

Points from 40C upwards are from Caerbont. Points below 40C (apart from the 17C one, which I measured myself at 3290 ohms) are my estimates while attempting to force a smooth graph. I couldn't find a way in Excel to differentiate them! JV

An update... Demon-Tweeks let me down, I'm afraid. Although the sender was shown as in stock when I ordered it, nothing arrived. When I queried this, DT regretted that it was now out of stock. Annoying, as I wanted to fit it prior to my imminent trip to France. I approached Caerbont, who said they could supply the sender. They sent me a pro forma invoice, but specified a delivery time of a week (so, too late for me). I then asked the ever reliable Chris at Redline. Yes, he had the correct part (TT6811-03 = 71167). I ordered it yesterday (pm) and it arrived in this morning's post (Saturday). What a service! I measured the resistance to be 3290 ohms at 17C, so it looks as though that's going to fix my problem. I'll be fitting it tomorrow, along with a bleed tee. For info, the curve looks like this (estimated values below 40C, apart from 17C): JV

I think you'll need to remove the complete gearlever and re-check the assembly sequence. The spherical bearing would normally be in the standard (lower) position in the housing. The correct assembly sequence (working upwards from the bearing) is: spacer, lower collar, spring, upper collar, circlip. Make sure the spacer sits directly on top of the bearing. I don't have an exploded diagram, but the pic in the Guide you referenced shows the sequence of components: It would also be worth checking that the gearlever fork is engaging correctly with the saddle, and also that the housing sits squarely on top of the gearbox. JV