O.G.

Does anybody have a tonneau for a SV. O.G.

I'm looking for a Tonneau cover for my 2015 SV 360R. It will only be used to cover the cockpit while towing on the trailer or when parked. Cant see much chance of me driving with it fitted. It would have to fit with the windscreen or Aero fitted. For that reason I'm looking for a reasonably priced one or second hand that is functional. Any suggestions please. As an aside, do you have to be cut around the factory supplied change up lights mounted on the scuttle? O.G.

Same assumption as Speedtrip, nothing perfect on a Caterham except the driving. Maybe one day I'll take a look.

On my 360R SV I have discovered, while the boot floor is up the RH handbrake cable is bearing on the brake flexible hose. Not good. I am in the throws of moving the cable to loop behind the hose but it's been there before and the clearance was not much then. Currently the cable is tie wrapped to the chassis diagonal and then loops around to the adjuster bracket. Has anybody had this problem and can suggest a different routing or does any picture exist that will help? O.G.

I don't know the configuration of your car but are the bolts of the "D" headed type? If so, is it possible the the short ones are actually pushed back and have turned so are not actually bedded down correctly. This would need to be corrected immediately. I second dumping the spacers! O.G.

Jonathan, Thanks for your reply. I've sent you this message as it would be a a distraction from NACA ducts. I found that when I was typing on my i pad the font size is smaller than that in a post. I now see, when posted, that it comes up to the normal size so really I do not have a problem. Thanks anyway. O.G.

Chris, I have watched the video of the "Loud American" extolling the benefits of fitting a backwards NACA duct on a NASCAR. I'm not at all convinced. You could probably cut any old hole in many places on a saloon car that runs at 150 - 200mph and find a lower pressure on the outside than inside. The backwards NACA duct could even have impeded airflow. Nigel (54) is right, you do not see these ducts on aircraft with a lip/flange on the outside. The duct would fitted from within maintaining the sharp edge that is a part of how ot functions. They are a triumph of style over function as used on most cars. I hope your project, whatever you end up doing, works out well. O.G. P.S. How do I increase the font size on this system.

Chris, I would counsel against fitting a NACA Duct the wrong way round. Such is the vagaries of aerodynamics I don't expect you will get any appreciable air movement out of it. NACA Ducts hardly work at all when fitted the right way round at vehicle speeds. They are there to look cool....... O.G.

Geoff. Wish I could but I had sintered plates fitted 1000 miles ago before your mega thread "BMW/Titan LSD Viability" had completed. I will have to live with the clanking and clonking for another year. O.G.

Thanks Geoff, Keep the reports coming please. I was thinking of replacing my Titan next winter. O.G.

To increase ground clearance I'm changing to Toyo R888 on my Duratec as they have a 60 profile against 55 for ZZS. That gives about 12/15mm theoretical increase in ride height before playing with the suspension. They also increase the effective gearing. Something I've wanted for road use. O.G.

How old are the flex lines? If not, as it's both sides, sounds Master cylinderish. O.G.

Whilst passengering with my son driving our 360R (wet sump DURATEC) I noticed after 3 to 4 miles the coolant had reached normal. But at 4000 rpm the oil pressure was just a smidgin off the red. To an engineer like me that is not ideal even making allowances for Caterham instrumentation. After ten miles and again at 4000 this had dropped to closer to 6 bar than the red. I have resigned myself to do the ten miles warm up before "pushing on" and remain with Miller 5/50 till the oil change is due and then reassess. I do do a few track days a year. I recently had a Beemer with an oil temp gauge that also showed you needed 10 miles to get up to normal so maybe it's the same for all vehicles. O.G.

My plastic drain pipe option. Works for me and CHEAP! Mine was left over from a very long ago plumbing project. I do have some left. It is a perfectly tight fit, need no glueing or screwing. You can make it as long as you like. The only down side is finding it. It's no doubt an old British standard. Mine is OSMA 1 1/2 inch. Message me if you need anything further. O.G.

Thanks everyone, as ever you have the answers. Job done but certainly not the easiest especially as you have to impart no little force on the glass edge. Benton's U Tube link is very useful but made it look easier than I found it and doesn't cover the complication of heater wiring. What I learnt: 1, Ensure you have the glass the right way round in the frame if the glass is heated - blue wire to the left. Also on my glass you can read the etching from the outside. 2, Fit the seal to the glass first! 3, Only lube the seal to the frame, don't allow lube to get between the glass and seal. I used Silicone Lube. Next time I will spay it into a pot and paint it on. Goes everywhere with a Aerosol. 4, Take care to get the heater wires into the grooves in the corner blocks. Not my favourite job! O.G.