O.G.

Does anybody have a tonneau for a SV. O.G.

I'm looking for a Tonneau cover for my 2015 SV 360R. It will only be used to cover the cockpit while towing on the trailer or when parked. Cant see much chance of me driving with it fitted. It would have to fit with the windscreen or Aero fitted. For that reason I'm looking for a reasonably priced one or second hand that is functional. Any suggestions please. As an aside, do you have to be cut around the factory supplied change up lights mounted on the scuttle? O.G.

Same assumption as Speedtrip, nothing perfect on a Caterham except the driving. Maybe one day I'll take a look.

On my 360R SV I have discovered, while the boot floor is up the RH handbrake cable is bearing on the brake flexible hose. Not good. I am in the throws of moving the cable to loop behind the hose but it's been there before and the clearance was not much then. Currently the cable is tie wrapped to the chassis diagonal and then loops around to the adjuster bracket. Has anybody had this problem and can suggest a different routing or does any picture exist that will help? O.G.

I don't know the configuration of your car but are the bolts of the "D" headed type? If so, is it possible the the short ones are actually pushed back and have turned so are not actually bedded down correctly. This would need to be corrected immediately. I second dumping the spacers! O.G.

Jonathan, Thanks for your reply. I've sent you this message as it would be a a distraction from NACA ducts. I found that when I was typing on my i pad the font size is smaller than that in a post. I now see, when posted, that it comes up to the normal size so really I do not have a problem. Thanks anyway. O.G.

Chris, I have watched the video of the "Loud American" extolling the benefits of fitting a backwards NACA duct on a NASCAR. I'm not at all convinced. You could probably cut any old hole in many places on a saloon car that runs at 150 - 200mph and find a lower pressure on the outside than inside. The backwards NACA duct could even have impeded airflow. Nigel (54) is right, you do not see these ducts on aircraft with a lip/flange on the outside. The duct would fitted from within maintaining the sharp edge that is a part of how ot functions. They are a triumph of style over function as used on most cars. I hope your project, whatever you end up doing, works out well. O.G. P.S. How do I increase the font size on this system.

Chris, I would counsel against fitting a NACA Duct the wrong way round. Such is the vagaries of aerodynamics I don't expect you will get any appreciable air movement out of it. NACA Ducts hardly work at all when fitted the right way round at vehicle speeds. They are there to look cool....... O.G.

Geoff. Wish I could but I had sintered plates fitted 1000 miles ago before your mega thread "BMW/Titan LSD Viability" had completed. I will have to live with the clanking and clonking for another year. O.G.

Thanks Geoff, Keep the reports coming please. I was thinking of replacing my Titan next winter. O.G.

To increase ground clearance I'm changing to Toyo R888 on my Duratec as they have a 60 profile against 55 for ZZS. That gives about 12/15mm theoretical increase in ride height before playing with the suspension. They also increase the effective gearing. Something I've wanted for road use. O.G.

How old are the flex lines? If not, as it's both sides, sounds Master cylinderish. O.G.

Whilst passengering with my son driving our 360R (wet sump DURATEC) I noticed after 3 to 4 miles the coolant had reached normal. But at 4000 rpm the oil pressure was just a smidgin off the red. To an engineer like me that is not ideal even making allowances for Caterham instrumentation. After ten miles and again at 4000 this had dropped to closer to 6 bar than the red. I have resigned myself to do the ten miles warm up before "pushing on" and remain with Miller 5/50 till the oil change is due and then reassess. I do do a few track days a year. I recently had a Beemer with an oil temp gauge that also showed you needed 10 miles to get up to normal so maybe it's the same for all vehicles. O.G.

My plastic drain pipe option. Works for me and CHEAP! Mine was left over from a very long ago plumbing project. I do have some left. It is a perfectly tight fit, need no glueing or screwing. You can make it as long as you like. The only down side is finding it. It's no doubt an old British standard. Mine is OSMA 1 1/2 inch. Message me if you need anything further. O.G.

Thanks everyone, as ever you have the answers. Job done but certainly not the easiest especially as you have to impart no little force on the glass edge. Benton's U Tube link is very useful but made it look easier than I found it and doesn't cover the complication of heater wiring. What I learnt: 1, Ensure you have the glass the right way round in the frame if the glass is heated - blue wire to the left. Also on my glass you can read the etching from the outside. 2, Fit the seal to the glass first! 3, Only lube the seal to the frame, don't allow lube to get between the glass and seal. I used Silicone Lube. Next time I will spay it into a pot and paint it on. Goes everywhere with a Aerosol. 4, Take care to get the heater wires into the grooves in the corner blocks. Not my favourite job! O.G.

Looking for advice from anybody that may have fitted a new glass into the frame. It's heated so the stakes are high. i.e. £350. I've had a few goes with and without lube. Putting the seal in the frame first, no luck then glass in the seal first, no luck. Any practical tips would be appreciated. I also need a suggestion to glue back together the seal corner joint. O.G.

Mine is very close to the wipers but not touching. Maybe a little enlarging/slotting of the attachment holes might make a difference. Try undoing the screws and see where it sits naturally. O.G.

I would check it again in another 1000 on the expectation that it would be clean. This would be similar to aircraft philosophy after fitting a new unit. O.G.

I've gone for the "Verce" option - thanks Jonathan! It was only £4 and all you have to disturb is the Dash Edge Trim. The only reservation I have is has the UJ ball joint stiff enough to hold the weight of the phone on bumpy roads. It was OK on a short test drive. Will report after a more vigorous test. O.G.

Thanks all for your comments especially Piers300. Your post prompted me to do some deeper investigation and I found I only gained 15mm at the front with 15s and Avon ZZSs. Although I haven't dismissed the idea of 15s yet I wondered if 13s (or 14s) with a less racy profile might perversely give me more height. Can anybody give me spirited road going examples of what they have fitted that goes inside the arch and gives me more than 530mm diameter. 530mm is the diameter Avon quote of a 195/55 15 so that is the thing I"m trying to beat. Subject to any options I could then be looking for a set of same size 13s. O.G.

My 360R (Duratec wet sump) hardly passes the Coke Can Test for Ground clearance. I have 65mm (2.5 inch) clearance unladen. There are already a few grazes showing. I was thinking of going for 14 or 15inch wheels purely for road use and keeping the current 13s for track use. I'm reluctant to change the suspension set up only to return it for track days. As well as increasing clearance this would effectively increase the gearing so I won"t be doing a very annoying and wearing 4000rpm at 70 while having to get somewhere on the motorway for instance. I accept the handling etc will be degraded somewhat but I'm prepared to live with that. After all, it would be worth it if it prevents just one cracked sump. Has anybody got any suggestions as to what of these two sizes is best for spirited mostly dry road use, and, what might give rise to even more debate, tyre choice. Obviously a conservative profile is preferable. I'm also looking to go for same width front and back. If there is anybody out there with a set of wheels they wish to sell please message me. O.G.

I don't know if it's failed but I'm desperate to solve this kangarooing so I'm looking at everything. I will try harder to remove it out tomorrow. Thanks O.G.

Tried to remove the air sensor bolted on the black plastic inlet manifold due to an issue I'm having with severe kangarooing. I undid the screw, although the sensor loosened up and could be swiveled around it would not come out with moderate force. Is there something I'm missing or can I just pull harder. Is it possibly held in by a tight seal/O ring? O.G.

I'm looking for any ideas of how and where to mount my phone, preferably in portrait, in my 2015 SV standard dash. I'm expecting to use it mainly for Sat Nav but who knows after that. I don't mind drilling the odd hole or minor rework. There have been a few false starts so I thought it was time to go to the experts for some "blue sky thinking" (that's management speak I'm told). Any pictures might help. O.G.

Steven, "That is why I think The Club has a part to play" You said "No it doesn't". Can you please explain why? Is this a club policy or is it a personal view? Perhaps it is something that the club could move on to. Personally I wouldn't want this thread to be hi jacked by what could turn into quite an emotive subject so I won't say anything more. O.G.