ScottR400D

Any progress with these things? The more I think about it the more I wonder if anything at all is being done re the Titan. CC seem to be having issues getting Duratecs and it seems possible that they won’t be available for too many years to come. Doesn’t seem worth developing a decent LSD now. That will leave just the little Japanese engined cars which hardly need an LSD in any case.

No s**t? If you look at it a cap head allows the bolt to be run in, the nut doesn’t need to turn, you just hold it. Try that with a hex bolt and nut. Anyway, off you go……

As I recall, I had cap heads on that fitting, made it a lot easier to fit.

What clunking? We’re talking about gear chatter and that shouldn’t change other than maybe a tiniest bit as it warms. If there's a clunk beginning it’ll be the diff warming up.

Entirely normal with a non synchro box. Explain the mechanism the stops it.if it’s not if it wer a dragging clutch starting with clutch depressed would help but it does of course.

It’s normal, not a gearbox issue and not a clutch problem. As said no synchro on reverse so the teeth will grind. Starting in the garage cold, depress the clutch then start it’ll engage cleanly because both shafts are stopped. Start in neutral, go into a forward gear, move, then come out of gear and straight into reverse, griiiiind. Again as said in such a case go in and out of first while stopped then out of first into reverse. Contrary to what PP thought waiting a few seconds with clutch depressed then going into reverse does work.

I’d get some more, you’ll need it when the rad starts to leak………. 🥴

I remain of my opinion. And there’s little evidence of any radiator being corroded by coolant. Radtec say don’t use the orange but I and many others have for many years with no issues at all. I’m still of the opinion that the main issue with CC rads is manufacturing quality. As for the hose and bolt ‘solution’ they neither support the radiator nor protect it from vibration. I just don’t get why you would do that.

You're right.

It’s the only way.

I think a race team is the only option. I’m not sure any sensible owner would buy a Titan assembly any more, let alone a used one that, despite what Ollie said, could go bang tomorrow. And I am the owner of a fully rebuilt complete differential assembly that I can’t sell, even to race teams! ☹️

I think it was too small, JK……….😜

I’m sorry Andrew, but that’s what I would call a lash up. It doesn’t really sound as if it works given “The rad in the picture has just been swapped for another Radtec due to a leak that has steadily worsened over the past few years ” There is no way that the ‘silicon hose bobbins’ offer any real support to the radiator other than fore and aft. I can’t imagine why you chose to do that rather than fit proper bobbins. Except that the way you’ve fitted the hoses would then mean they were subject to more stress.

Definitely. The weight of the rad should be supported on the bobbins and the hoses should be so they naturally slip onto the radiator stubs without any side load.

On the original set up which the CC hose was designed for, it fitted perfectly. Didn’t need to be that flexible.