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ScottR400D

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Everything posted by ScottR400D

  1. ScottR400D
    Any progress with these things? The more I think about it the more I wonder if anything at all is being done re the Titan. CC seem to be having issues getting Duratecs and it seems possible that they won’t be available for too many years to come. Doesn’t seem worth developing a decent LSD now. That will leave just the little Japanese engined cars which hardly need an LSD in any case.
  2. ScottR400D
    No s**t? If you look at it a cap head allows the bolt to be run in, the nut doesn’t need to turn, you just hold it. Try that with a hex bolt and nut. Anyway, off you go……
  3. ScottR400D
    As I recall, I had cap heads on that fitting, made it a lot easier to fit.
  4. ScottR400D
    What clunking? We’re talking about gear chatter and that shouldn’t change other than maybe a tiniest bit as it warms. If there's a clunk beginning it’ll be the diff warming up.
  5. ScottR400D
    Entirely normal with a non synchro box. Explain the mechanism the stops it.if it’s not if it wer a dragging clutch starting with clutch depressed would help but it does of course.
  6. ScottR400D
    It’s normal, not a gearbox issue and not a clutch problem. As said no synchro on reverse so the teeth will grind. Starting in the garage cold, depress the clutch then start it’ll engage cleanly because both shafts are stopped. Start in neutral, go into a forward gear, move, then come out of gear and straight into reverse, griiiiind. Again as said in such a case go in and out of first while stopped then out of first into reverse. Contrary to what PP thought waiting a few seconds with clutch depressed then going into reverse does work.
  7. ScottR400D
    I’d get some more, you’ll need it when the rad starts to leak………. 🥴
  8. ScottR400D
    I remain of my opinion. And there’s little evidence of any radiator being corroded by coolant. Radtec say don’t use the orange but I and many others have for many years with no issues at all. I’m still of the opinion that the main issue with CC rads is manufacturing quality. As for the hose and bolt ‘solution’ they neither support the radiator nor protect it from vibration. I just don’t get why you would do that.
  9. ScottR400D
    You're right.
  10. ScottR400D
    It’s the only way.
  11. ScottR400D
    I think a race team is the only option. I’m not sure any sensible owner would buy a Titan assembly any more, let alone a used one that, despite what Ollie said, could go bang tomorrow. And I am the owner of a fully rebuilt complete differential assembly that I can’t sell, even to race teams! ☹️
  12. ScottR400D
    I think it was too small, JK……….😜
  13. ScottR400D
    I’m sorry Andrew, but that’s what I would call a lash up. It doesn’t really sound as if it works given “The rad in the picture has just been swapped for another Radtec due to a leak that has steadily worsened over the past few years ” There is no way that the ‘silicon hose bobbins’ offer any real support to the radiator other than fore and aft. I can’t imagine why you chose to do that rather than fit proper bobbins. Except that the way you’ve fitted the hoses would then mean they were subject to more stress.
  14. ScottR400D
    Definitely. The weight of the rad should be supported on the bobbins and the hoses should be so they naturally slip onto the radiator stubs without any side load.
  15. ScottR400D
    On the original set up which the CC hose was designed for, it fitted perfectly. Didn’t need to be that flexible.
  16. ScottR400D
    Not quite right Jeff. For a few years the 420 was exactly the same as the R400 before it. CC then stopped fitting the smaller rad and separate oil cooler and fitted the ‘420 race radiator and cooler’. There seemed no other reason for doing this than to reduce stock. The new system offered no advantage whatsoever and heralded all sort of issues. To compound the problem, CC couldn’t be arsed to design a new top hose but just continued to supply the hose designed for the original set up, which it fitted nicely. Another self inflicted wound that has been left to fester.
  17. ScottR400D
    Nylon nuts and bolts?????!
  18. ScottR400D
    Can’t see why the clutch would leak only when the engine was running and the level should clearly fall if there’s a puddle.
  19. ScottR400D
    Yes, I got those exact grommets, depinned the connectors, punched a hole in the grommets, fed the cable through and refitted the connector. Worked well. I too was unhappy with leaving a huge hole to fill with crap.
  20. ScottR400D
    👍
  21. ScottR400D
    For years CC recommended the remove PC and fix to engine mount. Lots of builders will have done that. I’m sure it works and no one gets serious corrosion there but it went against the grain for me to deliberately damage the PC.
  22. ScottR400D
    That diagram shows the earth strap going to the M8 rivnut. To be honest I thought they’d changed it after I discussed the possibility in 2015. One lead to the bell housing, one to the rivnut. Back in 2015 I had to make up a short lead to replace the long one supplied but I thought they’d supply a short one now. Connecting to the engine mount was the old way.
  23. ScottR400D
    Is that what the manual said? I thought they’d stopped recommending that destructive method.
  24. ScottR400D
    Perhaps he means 10psi not 10 bar.
  25. ScottR400D
    “The short black one is now under an engine mount and earthed to the block, so that should be good.“ You haven’t scraped off the PC and put one of the ground leads to the chassis at the engine mount have you? Back In 2015 I was reluctant to damage the PC that way and asked why I couldn’t connect the lead to the spare M8 rivnut to the left of the battery. CC had no good reason for not doing that so I did and it’s been fine.
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