ScottR400D
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Everything posted by ScottR400D
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Grind/Clunk when selecting reverse gear - 6 speed gearbox
ScottR400D replied to Ant2's topic in TechTalk
It’s normal, not a gearbox issue and not a clutch problem. As said no synchro on reverse so the teeth will grind. Starting in the garage cold, depress the clutch then start it’ll engage cleanly because both shafts are stopped. Start in neutral, go into a forward gear, move, then come out of gear and straight into reverse, griiiiind. Again as said in such a case go in and out of first while stopped then out of first into reverse. Contrary to what PP thought waiting a few seconds with clutch depressed then going into reverse does work. -
I’d get some more, you’ll need it when the rad starts to leak………. 🥴
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I remain of my opinion. And there’s little evidence of any radiator being corroded by coolant. Radtec say don’t use the orange but I and many others have for many years with no issues at all. I’m still of the opinion that the main issue with CC rads is manufacturing quality. As for the hose and bolt ‘solution’ they neither support the radiator nor protect it from vibration. I just don’t get why you would do that.
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You're right.
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It’s the only way.
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I think a race team is the only option. I’m not sure any sensible owner would buy a Titan assembly any more, let alone a used one that, despite what Ollie said, could go bang tomorrow. And I am the owner of a fully rebuilt complete differential assembly that I can’t sell, even to race teams! ☹️
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I think it was too small, JK……….😜
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I’m sorry Andrew, but that’s what I would call a lash up. It doesn’t really sound as if it works given “The rad in the picture has just been swapped for another Radtec due to a leak that has steadily worsened over the past few years ” There is no way that the ‘silicon hose bobbins’ offer any real support to the radiator other than fore and aft. I can’t imagine why you chose to do that rather than fit proper bobbins. Except that the way you’ve fitted the hoses would then mean they were subject to more stress.
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Definitely. The weight of the rad should be supported on the bobbins and the hoses should be so they naturally slip onto the radiator stubs without any side load.
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On the original set up which the CC hose was designed for, it fitted perfectly. Didn’t need to be that flexible.
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Not quite right Jeff. For a few years the 420 was exactly the same as the R400 before it. CC then stopped fitting the smaller rad and separate oil cooler and fitted the ‘420 race radiator and cooler’. There seemed no other reason for doing this than to reduce stock. The new system offered no advantage whatsoever and heralded all sort of issues. To compound the problem, CC couldn’t be arsed to design a new top hose but just continued to supply the hose designed for the original set up, which it fitted nicely. Another self inflicted wound that has been left to fester.
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Nylon nuts and bolts?????!
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Can’t see why the clutch would leak only when the engine was running and the level should clearly fall if there’s a puddle.
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Yes, I got those exact grommets, depinned the connectors, punched a hole in the grommets, fed the cable through and refitted the connector. Worked well. I too was unhappy with leaving a huge hole to fill with crap.
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👍
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For years CC recommended the remove PC and fix to engine mount. Lots of builders will have done that. I’m sure it works and no one gets serious corrosion there but it went against the grain for me to deliberately damage the PC.
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That diagram shows the earth strap going to the M8 rivnut. To be honest I thought they’d changed it after I discussed the possibility in 2015. One lead to the bell housing, one to the rivnut. Back in 2015 I had to make up a short lead to replace the long one supplied but I thought they’d supply a short one now. Connecting to the engine mount was the old way.
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Is that what the manual said? I thought they’d stopped recommending that destructive method.
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Perhaps he means 10psi not 10 bar.
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“The short black one is now under an engine mount and earthed to the block, so that should be good.“ You haven’t scraped off the PC and put one of the ground leads to the chassis at the engine mount have you? Back In 2015 I was reluctant to damage the PC that way and asked why I couldn’t connect the lead to the spare M8 rivnut to the left of the battery. CC had no good reason for not doing that so I did and it’s been fine.
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In that case I’m with 7 Wonders.
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Could be as much to do with the fuelling set up as anything else. Has it been set up since leaving the factory?
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Did you make a fixture to support the diff in the Jack? A few years ago when my Titan expired I had mine in and out several times. First time was a bit of a pain but then I made a very simple fixture and it became pretty easy. As said, note the washers coming out and centring is easy. Since then, 2020, I haven’t needed the diff out having fitted a a Tracsport.
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From first post: “ ……..this is a factory built 2022 car“
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I’m not even sure ‘mass’ production would be necessary. They’re only needed on Duratec cars and they’ve got a finite time to go. Maybe that has something to do with the slow response? Perhaps Titan aren’t happy about making the investment? I very much doubt that CC have the capability of producing their own.
