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ScottR400D

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Everything posted by ScottR400D

  1. In all honesty I’d get someone who really knows what they’re doing to sort this. Just guessing rarely works out.
  2. I think you can occasionally lever it against the mounts and tighten up and hope it stays. As you imply though, something will be stressed. I’m still far from convinced it’s relevant.
  3. That sounds a logical way to go…………..
  4. Fair enough. I hope this is warranty stuff?
  5. Almost 10 years since they stopped recommending butchering the chassis yet they still haven’t sorted the fasteners……..
  6. Still waiting for HWMs words of wisdom.
  7. And as he says the clearance or lack of wasn’t the issue.
  8. As Chris implies, alignment wasn’t the issue. His prop was failing. If you research the alignment issue you’ll see it needs to be far more out of line than a 7 would ever be.
  9. There was/is a spacer that does something but not what you allude to. Not much can be done about engine/box alignment, the front of the engine needs to be down to clear the hood. In any case any angular misalignment is negligible. It’s a red herring. Do we have any words of wisdom from HWM?
  10. Perhaps it’s not the £23 that’s ‘insane’?
  11. I wasn’t replying to you actually. I think all you need to know is that they’re not always well set up from the factory, CC will just make excuses but they can be fixed. I’m afraid in the USA you’ll have even less support than we get. The PBC wouldn’t help as shown above.
  12. If it gets set up properly by someone who knows what they’re doing and cares it will be fine. Just hoping it will get better doesn’t work. I'm not sure I’ve ever read so many posts going over things we’ve discussed so many times over so many years. You clearly haven’t spotted the elephant in the room yet…….
  13. Not until the car’s set up properly often. Been like that for years. My ‘15 car was like that till I had RBTBs fitted and mapping done.
  14. I think you’ll find the answer is yes. Shouldn’t be like that but they very often are.
  15. I’d love to hear what HWM have to say. Caterham didn’t change the chassis when the Mazda box began to be used. Just like when they changed the radiators, diffs and anything else. Engineered? 🤔 By the way, back in 2020 I asked one of CC’s ‘experts’ to confirm that the Duratec sloped forward to clear the hood. His answer? “I have no idea” As I asked, do you have a Titan LSD? Sintered plates? You’ll never enjoy low levels of NVH with that if so. A final comment. The accumulated knowledge and experience in these pages will outweigh that of HWM by orders of magnitude. I would be wary of how much time I wasted.
  16. That’s yet more old news. The Duratec does cant down at the front to clear the hood. About 1.8 degrees. But the diffs also point downwards by a similar amount. As long as the output of the box and input of the diff are parallel there no problem. When we investigated this closely a few years ago the ‘out of parallel’ amount was negligible. What Ollie has told you isn’t true. But it’s a good excuse for the noisy as sin LSD. Search for a thread from ‘21, called PROP SHAFT ALIGNMENT AND VELOCITY I’m assuming you guys have LSDs? If not then it’s probably as good as it gets. If you do then look no further.
  17. There was a post in here recently where a customer’s car was on stop because they had no engines. Caterham say a lot of stuff, it’s not always true. Time will tell.
  18. Any progress with these things? The more I think about it the more I wonder if anything at all is being done re the Titan. CC seem to be having issues getting Duratecs and it seems possible that they won’t be available for too many years to come. Doesn’t seem worth developing a decent LSD now. That will leave just the little Japanese engined cars which hardly need an LSD in any case.
  19. No s**t? If you look at it a cap head allows the bolt to be run in, the nut doesn’t need to turn, you just hold it. Try that with a hex bolt and nut. Anyway, off you go……
  20. As I recall, I had cap heads on that fitting, made it a lot easier to fit.
  21. What clunking? We’re talking about gear chatter and that shouldn’t change other than maybe a tiniest bit as it warms. If there's a clunk beginning it’ll be the diff warming up.
  22. Entirely normal with a non synchro box. Explain the mechanism the stops it.if it’s not if it wer a dragging clutch starting with clutch depressed would help but it does of course.
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