ScottR400D
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Everything posted by ScottR400D
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Did you make a fixture to support the diff in the Jack? A few years ago when my Titan expired I had mine in and out several times. First time was a bit of a pain but then I made a very simple fixture and it became pretty easy. As said, note the washers coming out and centring is easy. Since then, 2020, I haven’t needed the diff out having fitted a a Tracsport.
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From first post: “ ……..this is a factory built 2022 car“
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I’m not even sure ‘mass’ production would be necessary. They’re only needed on Duratec cars and they’ve got a finite time to go. Maybe that has something to do with the slow response? Perhaps Titan aren’t happy about making the investment? I very much doubt that CC have the capability of producing their own.
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As Neil (7 wonders) says the Tracsport is proving very good. Nigel B now has best part of 20k miles on his and there are a lot of 7s using them with no issues being reported as far as I’m aware. I’ve done about 6k and the preload is still what it was when new. It’s also been silent and clunk free since the beginning and I think that’s the same for everyone. (Mine was the first installed in a BMW diff I believe, August ‘20) In September 21 Steve Perks told me he had more than 100 Tracsports on the road, there must be many more by now. I’m sure the Drexler is fine but for twice the cost of a Tracsport? Why would you?
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A relic from a past life!!
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A dynamic shift plane balance compared to a static is far more than just a weight position difference and as it’s no more difficult to achieve why wouldn’t you?
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The old Calloways? Given to me by a mate, they’d be more use to me as levers than for golf!! I think there may be a fault with them, they rarely hit the ball properly…….
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To be honest James that’s too far to the front to be a centre balance, and centre balancing (or single plane/static) isn’t really ideal. Shift plane balancing with 1 weight as you show and the other 45mm in from the inside edge is much better. This is my kit which does make it easy! 😉
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As it happens I was in the garage just now. 60 shore is the answer.
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Thanks James.
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What tyre sizes/rims were you running James?
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If there’s an issue then it must be down to poor quality parts being used because greased for life UJs should last years end years. Like they do on millions of cars that have them. I look at mine every year, there’s no play in the joints and they’re quite free but then again the mileage is quite low. I think the fact that both ends are fixed and the angles are very small helps.
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As you say they reacted to it but was there any follow up or contact with CC? I note that it's now almost 6 months since Laishley said he’d get his team on it and come back. I know they’ve sent stalling messages out but nothing of any substance. You’d think a safety issue would deserve more urgent attention than that.
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I doubt the DVSA would be too interested in a handful of cars from a tiny manufacturer. Time will tell, they might surprise us with a solution and compensation. 😉 Around four years now since the Titan issues were raised and nothing’s been done. A good mate (who I met through the club) has just recently had his sigma car rebuilt after a damaging failure. He’s in it for over £3k with two recoveries, (it was still wrong after being ‘rebuilt’) three rebuilds and a new CW&P.
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Judging by CC’s normal standard of customer support they’re probably still fitting the same items to new cars and crossing their fingers and doing SFA about the older cars in the hope the owners will eventually just go away. The same as they seem to have done re the Titan.
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Maybe get an update on the new Titan LSD too?
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I don’t think they’ve been used for years. My 2015 car had and the guide showed cap heads.
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Can you raise the car more so you can get a longer bar on? Neil’s right about method but as you realise that needs to be one of the first jobs. I used to find in gear with handbrake hard on and a quick tap of a 400mm bar would get them loose. Maybe you could try in gear with a bar and a tap if you can raise the car? I guess something through the UJ to lock it might work but not very good practice. Strap wrench round the prop to hold it?
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Any noise is going to be the CWP so a chance that the ‘new’ one might be better. Also you may be able to have the noisy one set up to be less noisy and you have a great spare.
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That’s what I was wondering.
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Been like that for some time now though. Don’t CC correct anything? Fitted your top hose yet? How was that?
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They must have a bin full of broken bits by now.......................... .........what are the odds it gets lost in the move?
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That was actually first censored in the late 90s. A few years back the name was removed from the dog’s memorial at the RAF base.
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All the leaky ones were supplied new by CC. The repair was carried out by a race radiator company in Brackley.
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No, you were just lucky to get a decent radiator! My first one instantly leaked just like that. It went back and was replaced. The second one showed the leak in a day or two. A third one was sent, I kept hold of the second. The third leaked straight away. I had the second fixed and it‘s been fine for the past 8+ years. I still have the third, basically unused but still with a leak, for when the need arises.
