ScottR400D

I’ve never been a great believer in the rads being damaged because badly mounted. I’ve never seen any real evidence. I know several who have done everything to isolate the rads but they still fail. When I built my car back in 2015 the first three rads all failed almost straight away. I had one pressure tested and repaired by a race rad firm and it’s been fine since. And of course the hoses were designed to fit my car (they’ve been used on the 420R with the layer rad set up but they weren’t designed for it). I’ve always used the Comma Red coolant. Changed at 5 years old and it all came out looking like new. No sign of any damage to anything.

I’ve had a socket directly wired to battery since 2015. First battery lasted 3 years with an Optimate. Since then I always remove from car completely for winter and charge for an hour every 6 weeks or so. Second battery still going strong after 5+ years.

To be fair I wouldn’t have thought it at all likely they’d sell even 50 of them so neither would I put them in stock. Get the order, get the deposit and then start building the product. Get the full price, deliver the product then look for something else to sell is the normal MO isn’t it?

I think they must have decided it’s not their problem. They’ve just sent me a Christmas e mail trying to sell me a watch so they’ve obviously sorted all the real issues. Talk about wood for the trees…..

They’re obviously totally committed………. …… to putting this off as long as possible.

No criticism warranted. You’re right to feel aggrieved. Just because some are happy, apparently, to be abused, no reason you should be.

……. at all?😉

The HWM thing is recent. CC just dumping another responsibility onto someone else who seems determined to milk the opportunity. Having said that, CC were never that special in terms of servicing/repairs. Just expensive. You’d be much better off with one of the established after market places if there’s one close. To be fair most of them seem to charge like wounded buffaloes but HWM, from what I’ve read are up there with the best. (Or worst!)

How right you are. How far they have to go and how little real effort they make. They sidestep every issue and nothing has changed since Laishley took over. Nothing. Its often been says but remains true, there’s no interest from them once you’ve bought.

Left handed?

Just as likely they’re just badly finished. No they’re not built to withstand a British winter with salt on the roads. But I doubt they’re built to any standard that tests corrosion resistance, if I’m honest. But £1500 to change a couple of headlights? If that’s not a joke it’s a;disgrace.

Is this noise definitely there under power? Many of us get a chattering of the CWP when on a very light throttle. Disappears under power or on overrun. I discussed this with Steve P and he thinks it’s the CWP being excited by the firing pulses and light flywheel. It seems to do no harm and is easily avoided by either changing down or giving it a little more or less throttle.

The nylon spacers (for the A frame?) can be got on eBay for a lot less than CC. From memory they’re 30 x 1 with 17mm hole. You might get them with 16mm hole but it’s easy enough to enlarge.

That’s good, glad you like it. Hope the CWP is OK but think it will be as long as the diff hadn’t been run to the point of breaking apart. IMO, and I think anyone who's gone the same route, the Tracsport is streets ahead of the Titan by any metric. More reliable, totally quiet, more effective, you don’t know it’s there except for the way the car becomes much more stable under power. I’d got into the habit, when overtaking things, of pulling out and getting the car straight before planting the throttle. Flooring the throttle then pulling out, the car would slide and squirm, sometimes it would do that if you hit a bump mid acceleration. In hindsight the Titan was pretty well worn for quite some miles before it let go but at only 7k odd miles from brand new, I didn’t question its condition. Never had to do that with the TS. Now the car goes exactly where it points and is much more predictable. Now coming up to the same miles at which the Titan went bang and the preload hasn’t dropped at all, the oil shows mild discolouration only and it functions as it always has. If you're going to just be on road/touring you might consider an ATB but if you plan any track stuff I could only recommend the TS. I drafted a set of instructions for removing and replacing the diff if you’d find it useful, others on here have. PM me if so.

Not necessarily carbon and I’m pretty sure that they started with sintered quite a while before 18, though I could be wrong. Maybe not. Is this the car you were only looking at a few weeks ago? Did you buy?

One thing about RRT’s stuff, plate diffs definitely do not all fit with ‘Turning at lower speeds will cause some noise, slight wheel hopping, and a general lack of smoothness from the differential. This is normal, the friction plates slip and bind causing the noise.’ Certainly the Titan is the epitome of that but the Tracsport shows none of those characteristics.

I wonder what significant involvement DVSA might have other than asking what the remedy was.

I replaced the rear stripes on my car by buying a roll of vinyl on line for not much. It was a perfect match. Still have most of 5m roll! My car has a twin 75mm (iirc) white stripe so colour was easy to match, may not be that easy for you.

They are rather good at can kicking………

Any updates on this? Or is everyone just fitting the Team Leos units and forgetting about it?

I routed the harness over the fuel tank which I think is the best solution but you’ve ruled that out.

Sintered.

The cost of a rebuild varies. If the bearings are OK maybe £4-500. If the whole lot needs renewing, twice that or more. I was charged over £900 for a full rebuild back in 2020. Plus the cost of removing and refitting the diff if you can’t do it yourself. At 9k/5 years I’d be having the diff rebuilt regardless of the preload.

Have you found a source of the same housing that CC use? I believe there are variations on the BMW ‘168’ diff. Other than that the housings appear to be fairly precisely machined for a 7 might not be easy to get accuracy with an angle grinder! And of course you’d need to be sure the CC backplate fitted the housing. I assume you have a 3.9 ratio diff? I have a spare, rebuilt 3.6 with a Titan which I’d sell to you for a lot less than CC will charge but it’s no use if it’s the wrong ratio of course. You could always buy a diff from BMW and strip out the CW and P, I guess.

Yes, you can. Though I doubt that Stuart would take you in the wrong direction if you’re clear in what you want from the car.