ScottR400D
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Everything posted by ScottR400D
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Drakman is right. I just looked at the one in my earlier image, which is a:spare, and it's got '3.64 LSD' in white marker pen on the underside.
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Perhaps better:
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The whining and chatter happen regardless of the LS. There's a label on the diff which if still there might indicate LSD or not. Zoom in on attached. Good luck in getting to it!
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Yes, it can. I have a Pela with a standard tube. Car on stands, feed tube up past DD into diff and stand pump and vessel behind car. You can get just about everything out.
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The book used to say 1.2 L which was close to the fill level. It was changed because of leaks from the drive shafts. It seemed that some diffs never leaked. Some always leaked. I've not heard of fill plug leaks nor from the backplate sealant, there's no gasket as such. Favourite would be a shaft but anything's possible. Unless it's massively overfilled that's unlikely to be the cause. I ran mine with 1.2L for years with no issues.
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"I did pose the question as to when a 12v socket is fitted to the car why is it put where no-one can get to it. Because very few people use it was the response. If you cannot get to it easily you wont use it I said." You couldn't make it up.........
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My car has a 6. It isn't a good long distance cruiser though bearable IMO. 70 is about 3800 rpm. Having driven a few 5 speed though, I wouldn't want to change. I love the 'One first and five second gears feel and find it massively better on a track. I too found the 5 speed a little 'flat'. For long distance cruising, which I don't do in the 7, I'm sure the 5 would be better From the OP description a change of final drive might help.
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#8 you'd think after all these years whoever fits the pumps in the tanks at the factory would have twigged that one!
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#4 Mine does that. On the red, drive for miles and till only get 26/7 litres in an SV. They might as well just fit a dipstick.
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Have things changed? I thought the collapsible mechanism was standard on all 7s in the clamp mechanism at the join between the upper and lower columns.
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Ah, yes, my mistake. I'm surprised it would even leak from there as opposed to just run down to the front of the bell housing and come out there. A spill seems more of a possibility now.
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The only time I've seen oil leaking from between the bell housing and block is when the RMS has failed. IME that's not uncommon with a Sigma but is uncommon with a Duratec.
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"I did raise the subject of inspection with George (their Eng Man), explained that mine had been visually inspected and given a clean bill of health by the supplying dealer a few weeks prior (one failed completely and the other was cracked when they were changed)." Best point made in this thread. Inspecting the components, even if it's possible in situ, doesn't mean they won't crack and fail soon after. There's a lot of circumstantial evidence to show that these parts aren't up to the job and will fail sooner or later. The only safe way to proceed is to change for an uprated product. IMO.
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Shouldn't they be following some industry standard recall/tech bulletin procedure?
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#31 Do we really need that demonstrated? I tend to agree with Gridgway, I would be very wary of doing even basic maintenance, let alone work on the brakes, if I didn't understand such a basic principle as oil pressure increasing with engine speed. Please be careful OP!
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That gauge action is normal for any engine, going from the video. That's a significant change in engine speed and not, IMO, what you have led us all to think was the issue. It's nothing to do with dipping the clutch but everything to do with a significant change in engine speed. What did you think would happen? And that doesn't look like a mechanical gauge but a standard one. I'm guessing your mechanical knowledge is, let's say, limited?
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#18 Thanks. That's who I am with.
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Not too surprising. If only CC put as much energy into build quality as they do in tying up suppliers...........
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#4 I was wondering how you'd know exactly where the play was, you can't see the two shafts, the play could be elsewhere in the box.
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Car insurance in the UK almost always includes windscreen cover subject to a small excess, without affecting future premiums, so it's not a major cost to the owner. We're also obliged, I understand, to have a heated screen so can't just get a plain glass fitted. It appears that 7s&Classics ask £288 for a heated screen, another £114 (£402 total) to fit to existing frame. CC ask £840 for a full assembly. Either way it'll cost me £100.
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#5 I would, I'm aware of what they do but firstly I have to contact the insurer who according to their terms limit the payout if you don't go with their preferred supplier. Interestingly if their supplier, as mentioned above, simply supplied an assembly from CC it will cost twice what it would cost from 7&C. But that will be up to them. #6 under no circumstances will they be allowed to fit to the car! Why would you let them try? My car's already set up for screen or Aero and it's a 10 minute job for me to swap. I only use aero on track. Wouldn't have wanted to be a passenger when this happened if there'd been no screen:
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Definitely premix.
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Thank you. I'm more than happy to fit a new assembly. The problem will now be that CC don't have stock..........
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Anyone had a damaged screen replaced by a mainstream repairer, eg Autoglass? I need one doing and fear the insurer will direct me that way but that they won't be able to do it properly.
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When I had issues which turned out to be the diff, at one stage I hunted high and low for a source of either spares for the driveshafts or the shafts themselves. CC seem to have the situation locked down so the they can charge several times more for shafts than other manufacturers seem to do for similar items. Also, other than boot kits they don't seem to supply spares so often you're stuck needing to pay OTT for a full new shaft. I'm sure someone will have sourced parts for some items but doesn't seem easy.
