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ScottR400D

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Everything posted by ScottR400D

  1. Oxidised, dried brake fluid I'd say. Tiny amounts built up over time. Make sure the inside of the cylinder isn't like that, though it's unlikely.
  2. No real reason not to mix grades as long as both oils are of suitable spec.
  3. Re the oil leak, they're often very slow. I can take my car out after cleaning, for several decent runs and there'll be nothing. Then there'll be a tell tale dribble down the casting. I wipe it maybe twice a year that's all. I'd run the car for a few weeks and see if there's anything.
  4. Looks like a slight rear seal leak to me. Mine does that and my UJs are sealed for life. Can't see how a UJ flinging grease off would get it there.
  5. I would guess RR are saying CC are using the wrong oil. RR will push there heavily modified oil which hides some symptoms in the Titan.
  6. #7 it's not new is it? Titan won't sell any C7 stuff directly either. I doubt it's just those two, though the bigger suppliers will be clamped down on no doubt. Just another indicator of how CC views its aftermarket.
  7. The Duratecs have a chatter as well, at least mine and most everyone I know with a Duratec has the same and regardless of gearbox. i believe, and was told this by SPC, that it's the CWP as a result of firing pulses and light flywheels. RRT thought it was the CWP and caused because of the engine being canted forward a couple of degrees. That idea has merit but I think the first idea is more likely. Mine is most noticeable in higher gears at low revs. Not to say there's isn't something else in the Mazda box that chatters but the diff chatter on light throttle/light overrun is common on all engine/box variants.
  8. Do Stahlbus do one in the right size for a 7? Edit: apparently yes but almost £30 EACH!? Don't think I'll bother......
  9. As said, it's the CWP that gives the whine. Some cars don't have any significant noise, some do but it can be adjusted out and some never seem curable. I have spoken to a few people who've had unbearable whine and adjustment by the best in the business hasn't cured it. Perhaps a whine caused by poor set up causes damage that then perpetuates the whine.......? Also as said, the Tracsport simply eliminates the grunting and groaning typical of the Titan. It also functions better IME and lasts longer.
  10. When I fitted them the instructions weren't very good, nor was the video because they'd made changes to the fittings but not updated anything. No issues with brake lights or anything though I chose to run the loom over the fuel tank to avoid riddling the rear chassis with even more holes.
  11. I don't think that's a recommendation for use, just how the dimensions are measured. I'd be surprised if anyone runs them at that on a 7. 13" ZZRs are measured at 22, larger sizes 26-30 etc. No mention of them being recommended running pressures which will vary widely depending on vehicle
  12. #14 James, if it were mine I'd fix the issue not just mask it.
  13. #17 Fair enough as long as you know what you're in for. As you say each to their own. I just can't see any benefit whatsoever of an aeroscreen on the road
  14. #11 I guess you only use on track? Nothing worse than a 'Brooklands' or aero screen on the road IMO and E. Much preferable for me to have both a proper screen and aero and swap between as needed. I wouldn't make any hard to reverse changes until you're 100% sure.
  15. The awful clonking and grunting, particularly at low speed is why I ditched the Titan and put in a proper LSD.
  16. Did you check the fasteners as recommended in the other thread? Or have you gone back to supplier?
  17. Just get some helicopter tape of the right width, easy to fit and change as it gets abraded. I use it there and on leading edges of suspension.
  18. Yes, check all those mounting fasteners. Also make sure there's a decent preload on diff still but I would think more likely fasteners somewhere.
  19. You're right about the silicones though I think Mr Sheen became silicone free some time ago. However: Ingredients Contains 5-15% Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, <5% Non Ionic Surfactants, Also contains Perfume, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Geraniol, Preservative (Methylisothiazolinone & Methylchloroisothiazolinone) Not really stuff you'd want on a car. Basically a degreaser solvent blend which will remove wax. There won't be much Limonene in it but: "Limonene can remove oil from machine parts, loosen postage stamps and strip paint from wood. Like acetone, limonene can dissolve polystyrene so can replace acetone for polymer applications. To prepare tissues for histology, D-limonene can replace xylenes for clearing dehydrated specimens."
  20. #4 hasn't the issue been fixed? That's what I understood from post 3?
  21. #4 That would be true in an ideal world but unlikely to be the case in fact. Duratecs in 7s normally tilt forward to get the engine to clear the hood so the gearbox tail is upward relative to the prop. I assume the 620 isn't an exception. My diff also tilts downwards towards the front (possibly to achieve the parallel situation you quite rightly say is desirable) but it tilts at a slightly bigger angle then the engine/box! When the Great LSD Thread was alive this was discussed at length and several of us found the same thing, though the variance from parallel was well within the point that would cause an issue. So, certainly worth a check but don't expect to find all is exactly parallel.
  22. I make sure that the wife or I curb the wheels early on then no one wants them anyway.......
  23. # I see where you're going Tom but spinning one wheel in the dry would indicate a too soft roll bar wouldn't it? I'd have thought there'd be more weight transfer with a softer ARB which would in effect lighten the weight on the inside wheel whilst increasing that on the outside?
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