PlastererPete

Found this thread about having to use a cut down allen key. Not having much experience with caterhams I can’t help much further, but it may point you in the right direction.

I did this on mine as I had a "wobbly" speedo needle for quite some time. jack the back drivers wheel up switched the ignition on and span the rear wheel. I had a light on mine which illuminated everytime a trigger wheel tooth went past. Took about 5-10mins to get the distance correct. After that its been fine.

Thats a good shout. Fords are known for leaky dipstick to sump tubes. Currently got one on my transit and had one on my connect and also on my ST170. Nice easy fix if it is aswell.

I think thats the route I’ll have to go. I just wanted to be prepared rather than have loads of oil drop out. Went out for a drive today so will check on the drip status tomorrow.

Finger filter and cap - 51nm ”Air outlet” to the right of the finger filter is 25nm Just need to know how much oil that part of the sump may hold before I take it off. Also are nitrile o-rings the preferred material or is something else more suitable?

Not sure I have that manual Jonathan.

Afternoon all, I’ve noticed a minor oil leak since my CSR’s service and would like to change the O-ring of the plug where it seems to be emanating from. I’m not blaming the service as I know the dry sump caps/plugs are soft and all round not the best design. The leak is very minor. A couple of drips a week while not in use, but still I’d like to sort it. So the right hand (smaller cap) is where it’s coming from and before I attempt to swap out the o-ring for a new nitrile one, I’d like to know how much oil I’m likely to lose. Also what kind of torque figure should these be tightened to?

Can’t see anything in the CSR supplement book. Only thing thats mentioned is rear diff fitting. Nothing about the propshaft. Only thing that is logical is the drill the rivets out and take the cover off.

I’ve got the same on my CSR200 (2005 vintage). Great trap for stones and debris from the road. I blow it out so often with a blower I use for work.

Good luck, don't forget to report back your findings

Again, just something to check, have you got any sort of dangling wires either in the arches or tied up inside the body by the headlights that may have corroded/shorted? AFAIK the only difference is the stalk module on the column and the wiring related to that.

Had a similar issue when I retrofitted a usb charger to my old work radio. I went through 5 or 6 before finding one that didn’t mess with the radio signal. Strangely it was a brand I never heard of. Is there any type of shielding you could wrap round it to mitigate the problem?

This may not be a solution but its worth a shot. I had issues with my CSR indicators (swoopy dash with column stalks) and after checking fuses switches and taking the column cowling apart I tracked it down to a blown side repeater bulb in the wing. I never would’ve thought a single bulb would wipe out the indicators but it did. Might be worth a check.

The wind deflectors do a little but not as much as you may want. I prefer to run with them on as when poodling about they’re ok. Anything over 50-60mph they are useless. I prefer them over any doors (half or full) as its a more enjoyable experience for the drives I do. Long distance i have full doors on though. They do just hook into the door hinges so easily swapped in a few minutes. I always tend to wear sunglasses or safety type glasses when driving anyway, to alleviate getting my eyelids blown about too much. They are SPA Carbon mirrors. Came with the car when my late father bought it second hand back in 2009. I’ve managed to get them to stay put with the aid of a couple of extra o-rings in the base. Although the DPR mounts are preferable as a more permanent solution. Feel free to PM me if you want anymore info. I won’t hijack the thread anymore 🙂

Not sure if this is much help. It was a quick picture to send to the guy that welded my exhaust up.