PlastererPete
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Everything posted by PlastererPete
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When I tested fitted my chinese versions of the same lights you had to widen the clips slightly to allow for the extra depth of the unit.
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I give my spherical joints a little dose of silicone/ptfe lubricant. Any kind of “dry” lubricant should be ok as not to attract dirt.
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@JP I haven’t got one myself as my primaries are on the opposite side. I have got DEI exhaust sleeves and Funk Motorsport cable heat shields. The cable shields are just cut to length things so I assume the starter motor shield would be a similar thing.
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Grind/Clunk when selecting reverse gear - 6 speed gearbox
PlastererPete replied to Ant2's topic in TechTalk
Always had this intermittently on my 2005 CSR with a 6speed box. I found the same as 7_Malc. Select first then reverse. Its usually after a drive and reversing on the drive. Sometimes just waiting a few seconds in neutral works aswell, but thats not applicable to your situation. -
“DEI”do heatshield blankets for starter motors (available from Demon Tweeks) as do “Funk Motorsport”. Both priced around the same. They look thinner than the one you have but are probably a better grade of materials.
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I,d probably have to agree with Ainsley. I wouldn't feel comfortable putting more than 20-25kgs in the boot. Its one thing being able to hold it while the car is stationary, its another asking it to sustain the load and then the additional momentum once it gets lifted slightly and then falls again after going over an unexpected bump on your journey. It could end up being the equivalent to 30-35kgs or more.
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Haven't experienced it myself but probably worthwhile checking any earth points relevant to the speedo.
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I use one of these for all sorts:- https://amzn.eu/d/3h02kyG Although its not available on amazon at the moment there are alternatives. I’ve changed oil, bled brakes, changed PS fluid etc. Great bit of kit for the garage and saves a fair amount of mess and clean up.
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I use this one for my van car and anything else I need to check pressures on. Cheap but surprisingly accurate and well built. https://amzn.eu/d/fUtVEfV
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Well today was the day. Full of “man flu” I’ve spent the morning changing the joints. It was well needed as two of them were very very stiff and one was unmovable. Initially had trouble getting the lower bolts out as I didn't have the correct imperial allen socket but a T30, a pair of mole grips and some heat persuaded them out. Thanks @SamC for the specs of bolts and for pre-warning me about the potential difficulty of those lower bolts. Just a quick note that I couldn’t find the correct bolts for the rocker arm off the shelf, so bought 70mm versions and cut them down. Its worked a treat with the shank/thread ratio.
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60deg taper as far as I’m aware….. i’ll check it though Edit:- Yep both measure the same angle. Just the new ones have a longer angle section
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So just got home and took some photos and measurements. Old nuts:- 21mm New Nuts:- 25mm Unengaged thread is on the new nut is around 3mm. All of the old nuts are engaged with the stud so I’ve got 21mm on the new nuts that are engaged so guessing its still ok?
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The wheels are another set of the standard 15” 10spokes. The nuts are around 3-5mm taller than the old ones. When I get home later I’ll take a couple of pictures, everything's easier with pictures. I’m not a fan of fitting longer studs as its only a road use 7. The occasional high speed “70mph” and some country lanes. I can’t justify the cost of the longer studs and fitting when I can just put the old nuts back on, although they are tired and tatty.
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So I’ve replaced the wheels and tyres on my 2005 CSR and purchased some nice black wheel nuts from Elise Parts as recommended by a member on here. No issue with the quality, but, the new ones are taller than the old ones so I now have spare threads showing on the nut. The stud doesn’t reach all the way to the end of the nut anymore. In my mind I still have the same number of threads engaging the stud (as per the shallower original ones) but now the stud is recessed in the nut. Is this ok or should I find shallower nuts?
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To be honest I didn't even think about that lol. I've always used metric as its what I was taught, so this is a foray into imperial for me that I wasn't expecting 😄 I'm just searching for those specific dimensions then all these options appeared.
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Wonderful Thanks Sam.
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Ok so next question (sorry 😬). Are those bolts, UNC, UNF, BSW, BSF?
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Cheers Sam. I’ll definitely give it a go. I was lucky with the other bolts on the rear end so maybe, as you say, soak with plus gas and give it a whirl. Cheers for all the help.
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😆 It's suddenly something I think I should've done over winter, but I was preoccupied with replacing the "fancy bits (carbon)". Maybe I'll get PGM to do it when it goes for its service this year. Just incase I have to replace the bolts too, what are the specs for those lower ones? 😁
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Cheers gents. I'll get in contact with Redline and see if they have them. For Mcgills I would need to know the details (bore size, thread size/pitch etc) which after scouring the various manuals I have, they aren't listed. EDIT: SamC, superb!! Thanks. I'll get them ordered. I take it fitting is a simple as jacking the car up, removing the wheel and unbolting the pushrod?
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Evening all, Looking at the front suspension on my 2005 CSR it seems there is some corrosion creeping into the spherical joints on the pushrod. Looking at CC parts website they list a couple for “pushrod” but I’m unsure which one(s) I need (CC’s need to improve there description of the parts 🙄). Can someone point me in the right direction and also possibly name a different supplier? As CC are currently doing there relocation. Thanks in advance, Peter
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As Ray has already said it should be fine. The only water I know of thats of concern is the water that comes out the condense pipe of the boiler as its corrosive.
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Had a short day at work so had the tyres stripped and disposed of.
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Evening all, In the coming weeks I will be putting on a new set of wheels and tyres on my CSR. Just wondering if anyone has use of two CR500s? Manufacturer date is 2019 and they have 4-5mm tread left on them. They have got the lettering painted white, but I’m sure it can be removed easily. Rears will be disposed of as one has the obligatory cracking (found at the cars last MOT in October) and I don’t trust the other, hence the switch to a new set of ZZS’s. Free to a good home. But collection would need to be from Rayleigh, Essex. Cheers.
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Not sure if its exactly what you are after but have you seen these:- Uber Niche
