PlastererPete
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Everything posted by PlastererPete
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Nakang AR1s are the only full set of tyres available in the CSR 15" but I don't much like the look of them for wet road driving. I'm not a fan of mixed brands on the car either. I'm no racing driver but I feel more confident with a full set of the same tyres behaving the same.
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Has anyone got wind of a supplier who's going to replace the CSR sizes for a more road biased tyre? Thankfully I've got a set of ZZSs on a new set of wheels in storage while I use up my CR500s (8 years old but still soft). Are Avon stopping production of the tyre completely or just moving it to a different factory/abroad?
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Well that second upright pin was a doozy to get out. Had to get the blowtorch on it and hammer the adjustable to get it to go, complete contrast to the drivers side. The replacement clevis is currently at the anodisers and should be done when he gets his delivery of black this week. HopefullyI should have a safe car by the end of the week. Both original parts so no signs of any fatigue. But that may be because its never been on a trackday in its 17year life, who knows.
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Glad you found it in time! That couldve been nasty. i have anodised mine because thats what the originals were and for the price of it £20 for both. Its a worthwhile thing to do IMO. It doesn't add any thickness to the bracket either (I know its only microns for paints).
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New clevis has arrived and the bolts go in no problem at all. I may have got a first iteration set which needed the holes tapping further but this set is spot on. Just need to get it anodised now.
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David, yep I tried heating it to 200c to soften the blue threadlock for the sheared bolt and to remove the upright pin aswell so I could transfer that to the new good clevis. I even tried freezing it and hoping the thermal expansion properties between the ally and steel would come into play, but alas, it didnt. I managed to get hold of Luke today and whatsapped him some pictures of it, if I hadn't have mullered it then he could've attempted an extraction, but I just ended up buying another one. I'll chalk it up to experience. I've ordered a plug tap which should arrive tomorrow and I'll tap the threads on the clevis I have and fit it tomorrow.
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Best rivet solution for windscreen hood fixing studs
PlastererPete replied to ChrisChurch's topic in TechTalk
Aaah my mistake. I found that tool on an old aeroscreen thread about fitting poppers. -
Best rivet solution for windscreen hood fixing studs
PlastererPete replied to ChrisChurch's topic in TechTalk
I think this is the kind of thing you are after (not sure if this is the exact one), not the cheapest but looks like it has enough width to fit over the frame, may help whittle down any google search results :- Press N Snap Tool I have no experience fitting the pop fasteners. I've only been a 7 owner for the past 18 months -
I'm in Rayleigh. Thanks for the offer but I'll just wait until I can get hold of someone at TL for a new one. I wouldn't be happy putting it on the car anywhere near its current state. I have however (while sat here pondering my choices in life ) been able to partially tap the other clevis/bracket, so it now has only an 19mm gap between clevis face and underside of the bolt. I'll wait until the other tap arrives before attempting to fit it to the car. At least then one side is done and the car is driveable/moveable.
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I've called three machines shops across Essex and none of them were too keen to even attempt it. One that said they would try was £90+vat an hour and he reckoned a couple of hours. So its not viable to repair. I'll try TL tomorrow and see if they still have that spare one when I last called. I'm happy to tap the rest of the threads, ordered an M6 plug tap to be able to do the other holes on the other clevis. Just got to hope TL have that spare one.
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This is my confusion, BUT The penny has just dropped. As SamC said (which I didn't fully understand) its not that the hole isn't deep enough, its just the threads stop too short to allow the bolt to go in enough, so they need extending by running a bottoming tap further into it. If I wind the 35mm bolt in fully it leaves me 22mm. But after marking the bolt the threaded section in hole is only 13mm ish deep.
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So with <7mm of shims and 13mm of ally on the upright i'm looking at 10mm of thread in the bracket. Not ideal but a 30mm bolt could work. I'll get hold of an M6 bottoming tap and run it through all the holes and see if I can squeeze anymore depth. I'm not sure if there is a machine shop local to me that could do it. Yea this car is full of surprises. I was never allowed to touch it while my dad owned it. It always went to a specialist for any and all work. Since inheriting it I'm trying to do more stuff myself. I've serviced my own vehicles for years so not that inexperienced but this is completely different.
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I see, ok well in that case I'll have to spend some time working out just how much thread will be in the bracket in its current setup. It's only ever going to be used on road and I will be keeping it until I can't drive it anymore (another 30years or so hopefully). I'm just trying to avoid having to cut down bolts for a perfect fit and havent got the appropriate tools to make that hole any deeper without potentially mucking up the threads that are already there.
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I'm going to get some 30mm bolts after work today and see how they compare when wound fully in. As you said 10mm of thread on an M6 is fine, especially as the load is always pushing down on the bracket anyway.
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Got the vernier caliper out and the hole depth is 29.7mm on the original and 19.7mm on the TL bracket. So the hole depth on mine is definitely shorter.
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After further investigation, I found the reason (apart from being heavy handed ) It seems the depth of the hole on the new bracket (that I have) is shallower than the original part. Original on the left, TL bracket on the right. Both 35mm bolts.
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Gutted to say the least about it. Managed to get the upright pin out of the bracket and put it into the other one. On closer inspection, it seems that 35mm is too long for my setup (silver/black/blue shims). I was trying to tighten it down and it bottomed out in the bracket. Got a good 3mm of space left before its even flush with the flange on the hub. I tried an easy-out from screwfix (mad panic to get there and get it out before the loctite went off) and the dam thing snapped in the hole I drilled
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Blue7, just a word of warning, don't have stainless bolts. As for the bolt youve shown, socket on that and allen key in the other end and it comes off fairly easy
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Cheers Ben. Hopefully I'll get both sides done by the weekend.
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Thanks Ben, I gave it a go this evening and did almost exactly that. Just cracked the big nut first to make sure I could get it off then the damper bolt and then the others. It was surprisingly easy considering they haven't been touched in 17 years. Gave the old bracket a clean up and can't see a thing wrong with it. Did you use any sort of assembly lube or anything for the collets etc in the damper bolt or was it all dry fitted?
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I usually get them from "Franks Fasteners" on ebay. I went with A2 stainless to avoid corrosion. According to what I've read the strength of 8.8 to stainless is negliable, especially for this kind of application.
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I never got a reply via email when I asked about the brackets, so I called instead. Apparently he is currently on paternity leave aswell.
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David. I tried contacting Titan direct and asking for a couple so I could assemble a whole unit before fitting, but Titan told me they are made to order only for Caterham and don't stock spares (what I expected to hear really). So I will be removing the old ones, cleaning them up and reusing them.
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Ok so I've got a new nuts and bolts and will be attempting the replacement this weekend. I'm soaking everything in WD40 throughout this week so hopefully no issues. Just wanted to clarify the removal procedure. Whats got to be undone first? Big nut on top Long strut bolt on the back Small allen bolts Regular bolts at the front
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Nick, I do the same as BenF. Especially after the first time checking the level with the dipstick. I put in half a litre before a nice hours spirited drive and upon my return found it all in the catch tank.
