PlastererPete

The one I found is this:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142034511266?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=BfkXD5ZWQaS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=m7NV-5oRR3q&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Its almost exactly the same dimensions so very minimal alterations or packing required to fit in the tray.

My father had this issue with his CSR200 during his ownership. 3 banners in quite a short space of time. The only parasitic drain is the immobiliser so my dad used to take the battery off over winter. Since I inherited the CSR I have kept in on an Optimate battery charger/condition plugged in via the cig lighter between the seats. This will be its third winter plugged in and so far *touch wood* no problems starting it when needed. I am however always on the lookout for a litihum replacement to fit directly into the battery tray (above my legs) and have only found a Magnetti Marelli one thats a straight swap measurement wise.

You had me going then! I was about to go and look at buying a set of 13” wheels and selling the two sets of 15”s I’ve got 😂 It’s certainly not a job I have savoured doing. I’m pleased its done, but I think I’ll be paying someone else next time lol

Well over the past couple of days I’ve finally managed to get the wings fitted. I had to trim down the bighead fasteners as they conflicted with the shape of the aero part. Pictures show the initial stick with cable ties (which remained as a belt and braces approach) to attach the fasteners to the wing. Then I did the big glob of Teroson MS9220 and tape it down. Under the frog tape are four 5mm packers to try and keep the wing spaced correctly. I had to do a second “fill” of Teroson to tidy up the underside and fully encapsulate the rear stay. This is all after multiple fittings and removals to trim the holes to allow the wing to move up. The holes are not just vertical they are angled towards the centre of the hub which threw me off to start with, I assumed they would’ve been straight. Last picture is of the old one (still fitted) alongside the new one. The old ones were beyond saving really.

I've got a manual hammer type tool coming to fit the poppers and various sharp implements. I like the idea of the masking tape though, hadnt thought about that to mark the indentation of the existing floor popper. Cheers. I've had a look at Redline and they want £30 each for "Long" footwell carpets so the £75 for these doesn't seem too bad :- https://www.carnoisseur.com/products/details/autostyle-tailored-car-mats-to-fit-caterham-7-94-22255-3266

YES! Most definitely! 😆 The current ones I have are fitted with poppers, so hoping to replicate this but with something a bit more "luxurious" than the current 17 year old 6ply bog paper that came from CC. Its only a road car so weight wise I'm not too worried.

Has anyone used an aftermarket company for carpets for there seven? I could do with a new set of forward carpets in my CSR for each footwell and have found a place that will do them for £75. But before I pull the trigger I thought I’d ask here if anyone has personal dealings with any? Cheers. i have trolled through the forum with the search function but there only seems to be mention of trimming SV mats to suit.

522 RC Tyre glue is great for plastics. As the name would suggest its good for sticking rubber tyres to plastic RC wheels. I’ve used it numerous times to fix flappy rubber over-moulding back on power tools. For god sake don’t get it on your fingers it’ll stick them together faster than you can blink.

Now SOLD.

Thank god for that. I can get one of them stuck on tomorrow with bighead fasteners and start trimming up the other one.

Do you guys think a 5mm gap on the front edge and the back edge is sufficient? Previously it was 2mm and I’m getting a tad fed up with having to take the wheel on and off, nibble a bit off with the dremel and refit.

Yep. I filled it out again last night just incase. Email came across as it was something new 🙄

Have you got anymore details about the car? Year? Engine?

Just received an email from CC regarding the CSR clevis issue. Another form to fill in. Just a heads up incase it makes its way into someones junk folder.

Yea its currently listed on ebay but would prefer to sell to a forum member. @smartizan I did think about poppers but havent got the tools and don’t really want to spend out for the sake of two poppers.

I only have one crack in a rear but they are all older tyres now so not taking any chances. I was going to replace the wings anyway as the existing carbon ones are 17yrs old and unsalvageable unless they are painted. So it was the perfect time to get the wings set for the taller tyres. Those are exactly the areas I will be trimming and I’ll get some of those bighead fasteners to stick to the wing. Thanks again for the help.

Thanks for the reply David. I did do a forum search prior to my post and found a couple of threads about elongating the hole at the front. Mine seems to need the hole for the top stay altering aswell to gain some added height for the rear. Both gaps are circa 2-3mm which is far too close for my liking. It would only take one rogue stone stuck in the tread to ruin the wing. Love the idea of the bighead fasteners and additional cable ties. I was thinking of going that route as an added security even though the old wings were on 17years without any extra help.

Has anyone got instructions on the method of fitting the front wings on a CSR? Currently fitting a new set in conjunction with new wheels/tyres. I know the rear stay was just stuck on with sealant and obviously the front has the single allen bolt (with penny washer and spring washer) but now I’m fitting a set of ZZS’s so need to modify the wing slightly to make it fit. I’ve read all the manuals and appropriate supplements I have, but nothing mentions front wing fitting other than the standard wings on an S3. My thoughts were to elongate the hole for the allen bolt to allow the front of the wing to move up slightly as its already “fag paper” tight on a mock up. Also the rear could do with being moved up so will be elongating the hole where the stay slides through to raise the back edge up aswell. As for the fitting, is it a case of putting the wing on, then carefully smudging loads of Teroson MS9220 between the wing and stay, fitting the wheel, using spacers on the wheel and taping it down until the “jollop” sets? Thanks in advance.

@ducatidentist, I did install one of them but I wasn’t happy with the look. It just didn't suit the car imo. I’m really fussy and the sidelight “bar” was just too thick for me. The installation itself was straight forward, just needed to flatten out the retaining clips a little by hand as the light unit is thicker than the original glass one.

Strange as my father previously had the CSR serviced at Gatwick and all paperwork, billing address, bank account etc were all labelled “Caterham”. As with others on here, he was not impressed with the work and subsequently went elsewhere. I’ll be giving PGM a go as I’ve read on here that there attention to detail is great (which is what I’m all about, both in trade and life). I’m happy to make the 1.5 hour-ish drive if the work they do is good.

StevehS3, I have various led sidelights in my van and previous daily cars and they haven’t lasted long at all. But the Philips H4 LED headlights in my Transit have been in for 2years and are brilliant. I’ve just bought some of the “expensive” led sidelights from Classic Cars LEDs to give them a go. I only drive my 7 during the day in the summer months but I intend to run with them on all the time actings as DRLs so wanted something brighter than the Osram Cool Blue ones in there now. But the aim is to upgrade to the LED headlight units at some point, mainly to give the car a more modern front end.

Thought I would offer it on here first incase anyone is after one. I purchased the 3D printed phone mount and an AMPS phone cradle from ebay for my 7. Stupid me didn’t look to see if the poppers it mounts under were screwed or riveted. Turns out they are riveted and I don’t trust myself drilling them out at that angle close to the windscreen. £30 posted.

Had a go at the stuck allen bolt after giving it numerous doses of Plusgas (great stuff i wish I had heard of years ago) and after some 15stone careful leverage the bugger, thankfully, undid.

Beat me too it. I was just about to edit my post. I found the manufacturer in Taiwan and you’re 100% right. Sorry for the doubt.

Had a reply from a supplier in germany (via ebay) and apparently the ones they sell are not handed 🤔 they list the “ns 2270”