ScottR400D
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Everything posted by ScottR400D
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Shouldn't they be following some industry standard recall/tech bulletin procedure?
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#31 Do we really need that demonstrated? I tend to agree with Gridgway, I would be very wary of doing even basic maintenance, let alone work on the brakes, if I didn't understand such a basic principle as oil pressure increasing with engine speed. Please be careful OP!
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That gauge action is normal for any engine, going from the video. That's a significant change in engine speed and not, IMO, what you have led us all to think was the issue. It's nothing to do with dipping the clutch but everything to do with a significant change in engine speed. What did you think would happen? And that doesn't look like a mechanical gauge but a standard one. I'm guessing your mechanical knowledge is, let's say, limited?
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#18 Thanks. That's who I am with.
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Not too surprising. If only CC put as much energy into build quality as they do in tying up suppliers...........
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#4 I was wondering how you'd know exactly where the play was, you can't see the two shafts, the play could be elsewhere in the box.
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Car insurance in the UK almost always includes windscreen cover subject to a small excess, without affecting future premiums, so it's not a major cost to the owner. We're also obliged, I understand, to have a heated screen so can't just get a plain glass fitted. It appears that 7s&Classics ask £288 for a heated screen, another £114 (£402 total) to fit to existing frame. CC ask £840 for a full assembly. Either way it'll cost me £100.
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#5 I would, I'm aware of what they do but firstly I have to contact the insurer who according to their terms limit the payout if you don't go with their preferred supplier. Interestingly if their supplier, as mentioned above, simply supplied an assembly from CC it will cost twice what it would cost from 7&C. But that will be up to them. #6 under no circumstances will they be allowed to fit to the car! Why would you let them try? My car's already set up for screen or Aero and it's a 10 minute job for me to swap. I only use aero on track. Wouldn't have wanted to be a passenger when this happened if there'd been no screen:
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Definitely premix.
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Thank you. I'm more than happy to fit a new assembly. The problem will now be that CC don't have stock..........
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Anyone had a damaged screen replaced by a mainstream repairer, eg Autoglass? I need one doing and fear the insurer will direct me that way but that they won't be able to do it properly.
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When I had issues which turned out to be the diff, at one stage I hunted high and low for a source of either spares for the driveshafts or the shafts themselves. CC seem to have the situation locked down so the they can charge several times more for shafts than other manufacturers seem to do for similar items. Also, other than boot kits they don't seem to supply spares so often you're stuck needing to pay OTT for a full new shaft. I'm sure someone will have sourced parts for some items but doesn't seem easy.
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Neither of the two BMW assemblies I've had have whined, though there was much clunking and banging until I got rid of the Titan LSD. I have heard others, though, that have screamed and I'm sure there are all stages in between. I would suggest that the answer to your question may be that you might expect some whine, though it's not really normal, (if not uncommon) but the bangs or knocks shouldn't be there. I hesitate to ask but is it an LSD?
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No need to disconnect anything if you're using any sort of smart charger. How many years have we all been using these things? Who's had a problem? I'm also struggling to think of any 'sensitive electronics' a 7 might have that the average modern car wouldn't?
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I think you'll find CC now recommend 85Nm.
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The occasional drop to low to mid 70s, assuming it's on winding up again after a spell of easy cruising, isn't uncommon and shouldn't be an issue. As said, it should recover to 80 after a short while. If it's staying in the 70s on a steady cruise it would, IMO, indicate a stat issue.
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It very common, it's the C and P chattering and the reasons I've heard for it include propshaft alignment, due to engine being tilted forward (v unlikely IMO) and the excitement of the C and P from the firing pulses not being damped by the lightened flywheel. (Much more plausible, IMO) Whatever, most do it and it doesn't seem to result in much harm. I find it easy to avoid by keeping the revs up a little and avoiding rolling along with a v light throttle. If it starts, drop a gear or lift off all the way.
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Sure it's not the diff chatter that most of us suffer? Does it stop if you lift off fully or open the throttle?
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I see no reason why it wouldn't work well. It operates on the same principle and should be fine.
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I see no reason why it wouldn't work well. It operates on the same principle and should be fine.
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I see no reason why it wouldn't work well. It operates on the same principle and should be fine.
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I own the tool near Norwich, which is loaned out at the mo. All I'd say is it's chalk and cheese compared to the punch and block. Easy to use, very consistent. Very even and firm crimp. The one shown earlier looks well worth a try though.
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Can a hose leak when hot and not when cold? Also stat house seal failure
ScottR400D replied to anthonym's topic in TechTalk
That's when they're prone to leaking. Hot hose is softer, system is under pressure. 40 yo?? Due a change then I would think! -
Temperature drops when revved - Sigma Supersport 140
ScottR400D replied to W33SVN's topic in TechTalk
That's fair! -
Temperature drops when revved - Sigma Supersport 140
ScottR400D replied to W33SVN's topic in TechTalk
Good news. What make were the dodgy stats, so we can avoid?!
