mantioras

I'd like to insulate the carbon fiber protectors of rear wings from rain and UV, but the clear glossy paint protection film does not look right on them. Tiny air bubbles are trapped as the surface of CF is not smooth. Even larger bubbles form around the rivets. Of cource it can be covered and then riveted, but... I was thinking of clear-coating them, but was warned that clear coat might crack, as these wing protectors are quite flimsy. They don't move much when riveted onto the wing (which itself has some play due to vibrations or gentle push), but I gues I'll have to bite the bullet. Clear coated bumpers on other cars seem to withstand gentle bends, and they also are quite flimsy when taken off, still the coat does not crack.

Hello. A couple of guys on Facebook group recommended this: https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/easygloss-carbon-fibre-polish-protect Just ordered mine, still waiting, will see how it works.

Benton, that was exactly the article which inspired me to add those side deflectors behind the doors :) But the author was trying to drive without any doors, and I guess he still accepts higher buffeting than myself. jbcollier's option is also interesting, but I personally find that my problem is no longer the wind from the sides, but rather from the top-to-back. While driving with the deflectors in place, I noticed that they are under quite strong pressure to be pushed inside, so they definitely protect from the wind entering from the side. Yet I still feel strong cool breeze on the back of my neck and around ears, even with appropriate clothing :/ Hence the urge to solve the air flow going over the windshield.

Kingsley, thanks for the recommendations. Already sent an email to Team Leos. Could you please include the exact contact of the two Steve's? I have trouble googling them out :/ Factory quoted 80 gbp for the remap, plus shipping, so I thought that's a low cost option and keeping still stock. Programmable ECU and a custom map is way more expensive, so at least now I'm not in the mood for that route. At least not when I haven't got the latest factory map. If that does not work, then of course aftermarket options might be the way.

Hello. Has anyone tried to replicate this "stacked" deflector principle on a Caterham, with some kind of an aeroscreen fitted in front of the windscreen? This idea popped in my head after I did some tinkering with my SV to reduce buffeting. Having read about the blocking screen between the headrests, I attached a retractable sunshade, which is usually mounted in cars on their rear shelf. Pics attached. Seems it has helped a bit, and visbility via the internal mirror is quite ok with the share up. However, there still was turbulent air, so I decided to try out side deflectors/blockers from clear plexiglass. I was expecting that some crosswinds might pass into the cabin through the side gap between the rear of the door and the rollbar, ie. this sunshade/windblocker I had installed. While driving with all the setup in place the shade/windblocker was still being pushed into the cabin quite heavily, meaning that the air going above the windscreen is being sucked into the cabin: and some of it is blocked, but a considerable amount still goes right down behind our heads, in front of the windblocker shade. So one idea would be to secure some "aeroscreens" on top of the windscreen (something like Brooklands type, eg. two flaps), or to attach something like a usual aeroscreen to the scuttle or the bonnet in front of the windscreen. The first option should throw the air higher and further up (but might actually increase the vacuum and result in an even stronger suction, so must be tested), while the second one might work as the aeroscreen was intended, with the windscreen serving only the purpose as a shield from bugs/stones/rain/whatever might hit you into your face. I cannot replace the windscreen with aeroscreen due to numerous reasons, and am quite tall (6ft3in), so buffeting is a bit annoying. Hence the idea of an aeroscreen (or two flaps) in front (not on top) of the windscreen, which would not block any view (but I'd still prefer the clear ones). If that works, I would happily remove the rear "curtain" and the side screens, to retain the cleaner original looks, even though 20 euros for the first one and 10 euros in materials for the pivoting screens is a bargain and works somewhat :) BTW might not be obvious from the pictures, but the rear shade can be put up and works with sidescreens in place. They pivot to ease the entry and exit from the car.

Andy, Chris, thanks for the responses. I am planing to send the ECU to the factory for a remap in late autumn, when the car is stored for winter. Still want to enjoy a few sunny autumn days:) So another round of fiddling with the TPS, air flow screw and the synchrometer will be after the remap. However, I'm out of ideas on how to achieve the full range of 0-15 for the throttle site :/ I opened the pedal box, and the throttle pedal does not have any links/bolts/adjustment-things to play with it. The end of the throttle cable is secured to the pedal with no possible adjustment, the pedal itself does not have any "pedal stop" that could be adjusted or removed to increase the pedal's throw. I haven't touched the end of the cable which is secured to the TB axle, but right now TBs are closed with the pedal in the topmost position, and if it can be pressed to the full bottom, I do not see how I could achieve more range fiddling with the cable. I presume the TPS itself cannot be adjusted or calibrated in a way that it starts "seeing" the throttle site range of 0-15, instead of current 1-12, can it? I had disconnected the battery for several times, hoping that TPS might "reset" in that direction, but it did not make any effect.

I have a similar clonking noise from the diff area when changing gears, especially 2nd-3rd. Sometimes a single clonk happens when cornering, as if some metal ball changes position and bangs into another sidewall of anything holding it. My mechanic tells me it's tripode bearings in the driveshaft, which has some play. 2009 Ford diff and gearbox.

Yup, it seems CC have made this part unnecessarily "exclusive", when it could be perfectly rebuildable. However, I'm a bit puzzled why a stock bearing of 30.5mm diameter feels loose in its housing, when there are aftermarket ones readily available of that size. Did CC really opt for exclusive 30.7mm size bearings, and mine just happed to wear down to the "aftermarket" size? Well, just got an idea that I should get back to my mechanic and ask him to disassemble _both_ driveshafts, the loose one and the good one, and compare their bearings and housings side by side. Still looks cheaper than forking out 500 euros for one driveshaft :/

Hello. My Caterham 150 (2009) has a metallic clonking noise from the diff area, and the mechanic found that the driveshaft has some play. Decided to change the tripod bearings, but replacement ones (30.4mm or 30.5mm diameter?) still have some play, as their diameter is not that different from the original ones. The housing does not show wear on the inside, so now I'm a bit confused: should I look for new (refurbished?) housings, or try to source the 30.7mm diameter bearings? My mechanic told that they are like LCCF02131, but should be of a larger diameter. However, I cannot google anything out :/ I'm even beginning to accept the option to go for a new aftermarket driveshaft, just not at OEM price :/ Any guidance to the products or parts sellers would be greatly appreciated (even better if these are in the EU).

Hello everyone. Reviving an old thread, as it seems to be one of the most informative on how to balance the Sigma 150. I believe I have an opposite problem regarding the air flow. I connected the Easimap 6, adjusted TPS position to 1.03-1.04v (it was 1.1 or 1.2 initially, throttle site 5...), and then tried to balance the idle at 950±50rpm, and that was tough, as the engine was hunting quite a lot, between 800-1100 rpm. Then removed the air filter to measure the air flow, and it looks it's pulling in around 7-8kg/hour. Probably even a bit over 8, as the synchrometer is mechanical, its scale is not very precise, and the engine was hunting for revs. The good thing is that both banks (cyl 1-2 and 3-4) are pulling similar flows each. So do I adjust the air flow down to the recommended 4-5 kg/hour? Should I go through the "nipple" of each cylinder, or is there a way to tune down all four TBs at once? [Adjustment screws are at an angle, not immediately below the fuel rail, so at least it is a more user-friendly version than for martyn] I suspect the engine would hunt even more, and I should be ready to adjust the idle screw again, at the same time as tweaking the throttle bodies? Or quite the opposite, as now presumably the fuel mixture is too lean and idling should actually improve with less air? On the other hand, is there something else forcing more air to go in? I'm a bit reluctant to go all-in with these adjustments and don't want to mess up everything completely, as previously it was working: not ideal, but at least driveable... :) BTW, the fully depressed throttle reaches only site 12, so I presume this is fixed by adjusting the engine stop nut? New-to-me Caterham Sigma 150 (2009), ECU still not with the newest remap (ie. MAP sensor still connected to the manifold via a hose).