Bone Rat

Agree with 7,replacing the rear rigid lines really made a difference. Now able to move the caliper without the inevitable dribble and the wear on the rear pad evened up. Now considering the fronts, mine have been there since 2011!

I agree with Chris, the main thing will be checking with the mk 1 eyeball that the butterfly flaps go from closed to full open. Hopefully the remap over the winter will help considerably, CC weren't very helpful with my teething problems all those years ago. But, once the map was sorted and it was balanced it runs really well. The 150 seems to be regarded by CC as the problem child and was dumped for the 140, but once it's running well it's worth it. Good luck keep us informed of progress! Andy

Hi, Only just come across this, I was the OP! Must admit I've had great results following the detailed information I was given. I use a mechanical synchrometer (a barrel shaped thing with a rubber cone you stuff in the body) & easimap. I must admit mine only pulls an indicated 3.5 to 4 - BUT the important bit is that each bank is equal. It doesn't hunt, only get some idling issues if the stop is set too low. Tend to keep it at about 850 to 900 rpm. The fully depressed throttle should be more than 12,so that may need adjustment. Also I'd get the map updated. There is quite a detailed thread on ere about the issues with the importance of the latest /final map. It doesn't need the small hose connected. I found this made a significant difference to it's running. Trouble was trying to get CC to do it in the first place. Bit of advice is to leave the disconnected tiny hose attached to the bulkhead mounted unit. If you get water in the unit it's not good. Hope it works out Andy

Hi, I've got the S3 with the T9 and have at last worked out the way of getting the plug in. A lot copied from bits of others trials. To remove I use a 15 to 17mm segment of a 10mm Allen key, cut with a Dremel. This is held in a ratcheting spanner with a piece of Duck tape. Undoes and will do up quite nicely. To replace it I hold the plug with a Machine Mart magnetic probe/pickup on the threaded portion, it allows the plug the be held and rotated with the spanner without you getting an arm full of oil or tying to force your fingers in and dropping the plug out each time. After trying to drain the oil I eventually gave up the pain of trying to feed a tube in, it's worse than passing a catheter in the dark. I bit the bullet and drilled and tapped the sump in the T9 box. This was surprisingly easy, a tiny hole initially into the swelling at the bottom of the box , this slowly drained all the oil avoiding the potential deluge if the big hole was done straight off. I then enlarged it with a grease covered 10.5mm drill. Tapped it with a M12 x1.25 tap and flushed it out with cheap oil. Now plugged with magnetic sump plug and can be easily changed. There were a number of guides to this on the web at the time albeit not 7 ones. The point of insertion is through the centre of the magnet in the base of the box. A right angled drill made it easy. It seemed a big step but was has made life so much easier. https://usa7s.net/ips/uploads/monthly_2021_03/693991070_t-9drainplug.JPG.f71e02b05b87a51169997d0c2cb8b2ca.JPG Andy

Hi, I've got a 2010 RoadSport 150 on 14" wheels, can I first say I'm impressed that you've still got the ZV3s on, the most terrifying drive I did was in the damp on 12 year old ZV3s when my wheels were replaced after an off a few years ago, hard and shiny doesn't describe them, it was like Bambi on ice! Like many I expect I first used A021s after taking off the first set of ZV3s until they lost their certification, these were great and transformed the handling albeit they were a bit short lasting. Since then I've run Rain Expert 3s on the 7, Initially I was a little wary of them when they still had the full 8mm tyre blocks and weren't as good as the excellent A021s but as they have worn in I've found the handling to be almost as good as the A021s especially when the blocks got to about 5mm. I should add I only drive on road, mainly the Beacons, we often get damp down here. They have lasted since 2016 doing about 3k miles a season. I've also used the Rain Expert 3 and 5 on my MX5 NC3.5, another car that is very fussy over its tyres. It doesn't have as much power to weight as the 7 or as light but differences between tyres are noticeable, a set of Marshal things being a particular low point. Both the RE 3 and 5 were excellent on this with no noticeable differences between them. Would happily put a set of RE 5 on the 7 when the current set wear out. Best wishes Andy

PM sent

South Wales - collection only Clarke 1/2" corded impact wrench, 450Nm - usually sold in machine mart. It's the red and grey one. Few years old but only used for 2 changes of winter wheels, excellent condition. Need to make space in the garage, bit heavy for post carpal tunnel and # elbow. Got fed up with FB muppetry when tried to sell it, so I thought let a fellow 7 owner benefit. Very heavy hence collection only - Bridgend area

Hi, Have a mx5 (NC 3.5 to be anal) along with a 150 Seven. Yup, the 5 speed box is drained on a regular basis - recommended about every 5 years or 60k miles - most do it sooner to maintain the change. The turret is also a regular check and may need a top up as it leaks into the box over the years, can't top up a 5 spd through it. Lots of info on the plugs on line. It's another car that attracts the self maintaining. Andy

Must admit I've used an extractor for the past eight years. No mess, for the first couple of times I took the plug out at the end and there was only a tiny trickle. Have now put the temp sensor into the sump plug and no longer disturb it Andy

Hi all, I thought I'd update everyone with progress, I hate threads being left up in the air and not resolved, hopefully this will help someone else. So far I'd replaced the TPS, the little harness to it, the lambda sensor and the crankcase sensor. No joy. The only problem I could see was the malfunctioning immobiliser LED. So off it went to Eric in Millwood. have spoken to Eric and it was 2 things. The main problem was caused by a failure of the barometric sensor, this is apparently very rare and was detected a little by luck as it was disconnected. The 150 has it mounted on the air filter back plate, possibly it's a bit exposed. He did say he hadn't come across this before. In addition to this the fuse to the immobiliser had also blown which meant it would not run once it did fire. Unfortunately this is also hidden and is not part of the usual fusebox but part of the loom. Feel a little more reassured that this was not a simple problem that I should have been able to fix. Collecting it in a few weeks - will be getting aeroscreen fitted, brass monkey for co-driver for return trip. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions Andy

Hi Hopefully be collected next week, been sitting there for ages since September Be fascinated to know what it is

Just to update things, new lambda, new TPS and harness, new crankcase sensor and plugs. Fuel pump is OK. Still no joy, now waiting for Eric from Millwood to collect it - I give up, a perfect end to 2020. Will update on the eventual solution Andy

Hi John, As far as I'm aware the Sigma can't be read by the usual fault scanner as it's a locked MBE unit. Tried when I first bought it years ago. I've had to use a generic one on my previous TT as this was plagued by emission code errors. I've got the Easimap software as the 150 needs throttle body balancing and TPS setting on a regular basis. This gives a live reading of engine parameters but no codes appear stored (I think). Can't say I'm that familiar with the detailed use of it though Andy

Many thanks for all the suggestions, I've ordered a new crank sensor this afternoon so will give that a try. Very frustrating as I'm in Wales and the lockdown seems to have been embraced. Hopefully it'll arrive early next week. Andy

Hi, Yes, checked the various threads on the forum, unfortunately it seems a common set of symptoms. So far have a new lambda sensor as that had been in 10 years and was covered in soot. No joy. Then replaced the TPS and the small harness (it was on offer), again no joy. Yesterday, tried looking at the fuel pump and wiring, have cleaned the earths in the engine bay, the plug at the fuel pump looked fine with clean contacts, fuses are fine. It's odd in that the pump primes, it turns over readily enough, fires, runs for a few seconds, just as if it's on the priming pressure and dies. The mass of other connections seem buried above the gearbox and would tax a gynaecologist to get to, at least via the engine bay