Bone Rat

Agree with 7,replacing the rear rigid lines really made a difference. Now able to move the caliper without the inevitable dribble and the wear on the rear pad evened up. Now considering the fronts, mine have been there since 2011!

I agree with Chris, the main thing will be checking with the mk 1 eyeball that the butterfly flaps go from closed to full open. Hopefully the remap over the winter will help considerably, CC weren't very helpful with my teething problems all those years ago. But, once the map was sorted and it was balanced it runs really well. The 150 seems to be regarded by CC as the problem child and was dumped for the 140, but once it's running well it's worth it. Good luck keep us informed of progress! Andy

Hi, Only just come across this, I was the OP! Must admit I've had great results following the detailed information I was given. I use a mechanical synchrometer (a barrel shaped thing with a rubber cone you stuff in the body) & easimap. I must admit mine only pulls an indicated 3.5 to 4 - BUT the important bit is that each bank is equal. It doesn't hunt, only get some idling issues if the stop is set too low. Tend to keep it at about 850 to 900 rpm. The fully depressed throttle should be more than 12,so that may need adjustment. Also I'd get the map updated. There is quite a detailed thread on ere about the issues with the importance of the latest /final map. It doesn't need the small hose connected. I found this made a significant difference to it's running. Trouble was trying to get CC to do it in the first place. Bit of advice is to leave the disconnected tiny hose attached to the bulkhead mounted unit. If you get water in the unit it's not good. Hope it works out Andy

Hi, I've got the S3 with the T9 and have at last worked out the way of getting the plug in. A lot copied from bits of others trials. To remove I use a 15 to 17mm segment of a 10mm Allen key, cut with a Dremel. This is held in a ratcheting spanner with a piece of Duck tape. Undoes and will do up quite nicely. To replace it I hold the plug with a Machine Mart magnetic probe/pickup on the threaded portion, it allows the plug the be held and rotated with the spanner without you getting an arm full of oil or tying to force your fingers in and dropping the plug out each time. After trying to drain the oil I eventually gave up the pain of trying to feed a tube in, it's worse than passing a catheter in the dark. I bit the bullet and drilled and tapped the sump in the T9 box. This was surprisingly easy, a tiny hole initially into the swelling at the bottom of the box , this slowly drained all the oil avoiding the potential deluge if the big hole was done straight off. I then enlarged it with a grease covered 10.5mm drill. Tapped it with a M12 x1.25 tap and flushed it out with cheap oil. Now plugged with magnetic sump plug and can be easily changed. There were a number of guides to this on the web at the time albeit not 7 ones. The point of insertion is through the centre of the magnet in the base of the box. A right angled drill made it easy. It seemed a big step but was has made life so much easier. https://usa7s.net/ips/uploads/monthly_2021_03/693991070_t-9drainplug.JPG.f71e02b05b87a51169997d0c2cb8b2ca.JPG Andy

Hi, I've got a 2010 RoadSport 150 on 14" wheels, can I first say I'm impressed that you've still got the ZV3s on, the most terrifying drive I did was in the damp on 12 year old ZV3s when my wheels were replaced after an off a few years ago, hard and shiny doesn't describe them, it was like Bambi on ice! Like many I expect I first used A021s after taking off the first set of ZV3s until they lost their certification, these were great and transformed the handling albeit they were a bit short lasting. Since then I've run Rain Expert 3s on the 7, Initially I was a little wary of them when they still had the full 8mm tyre blocks and weren't as good as the excellent A021s but as they have worn in I've found the handling to be almost as good as the A021s especially when the blocks got to about 5mm. I should add I only drive on road, mainly the Beacons, we often get damp down here. They have lasted since 2016 doing about 3k miles a season. I've also used the Rain Expert 3 and 5 on my MX5 NC3.5, another car that is very fussy over its tyres. It doesn't have as much power to weight as the 7 or as light but differences between tyres are noticeable, a set of Marshal things being a particular low point. Both the RE 3 and 5 were excellent on this with no noticeable differences between them. Would happily put a set of RE 5 on the 7 when the current set wear out. Best wishes Andy

PM sent

South Wales - collection only Clarke 1/2" corded impact wrench, 450Nm - usually sold in machine mart. It's the red and grey one. Few years old but only used for 2 changes of winter wheels, excellent condition. Need to make space in the garage, bit heavy for post carpal tunnel and # elbow. Got fed up with FB muppetry when tried to sell it, so I thought let a fellow 7 owner benefit. Very heavy hence collection only - Bridgend area

Hi, Have a mx5 (NC 3.5 to be anal) along with a 150 Seven. Yup, the 5 speed box is drained on a regular basis - recommended about every 5 years or 60k miles - most do it sooner to maintain the change. The turret is also a regular check and may need a top up as it leaks into the box over the years, can't top up a 5 spd through it. Lots of info on the plugs on line. It's another car that attracts the self maintaining. Andy

Must admit I've used an extractor for the past eight years. No mess, for the first couple of times I took the plug out at the end and there was only a tiny trickle. Have now put the temp sensor into the sump plug and no longer disturb it Andy

Hi all, I thought I'd update everyone with progress, I hate threads being left up in the air and not resolved, hopefully this will help someone else. So far I'd replaced the TPS, the little harness to it, the lambda sensor and the crankcase sensor. No joy. The only problem I could see was the malfunctioning immobiliser LED. So off it went to Eric in Millwood. have spoken to Eric and it was 2 things. The main problem was caused by a failure of the barometric sensor, this is apparently very rare and was detected a little by luck as it was disconnected. The 150 has it mounted on the air filter back plate, possibly it's a bit exposed. He did say he hadn't come across this before. In addition to this the fuse to the immobiliser had also blown which meant it would not run once it did fire. Unfortunately this is also hidden and is not part of the usual fusebox but part of the loom. Feel a little more reassured that this was not a simple problem that I should have been able to fix. Collecting it in a few weeks - will be getting aeroscreen fitted, brass monkey for co-driver for return trip. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions Andy

Hi Hopefully be collected next week, been sitting there for ages since September Be fascinated to know what it is

Just to update things, new lambda, new TPS and harness, new crankcase sensor and plugs. Fuel pump is OK. Still no joy, now waiting for Eric from Millwood to collect it - I give up, a perfect end to 2020. Will update on the eventual solution Andy

Hi John, As far as I'm aware the Sigma can't be read by the usual fault scanner as it's a locked MBE unit. Tried when I first bought it years ago. I've had to use a generic one on my previous TT as this was plagued by emission code errors. I've got the Easimap software as the 150 needs throttle body balancing and TPS setting on a regular basis. This gives a live reading of engine parameters but no codes appear stored (I think). Can't say I'm that familiar with the detailed use of it though Andy

Many thanks for all the suggestions, I've ordered a new crank sensor this afternoon so will give that a try. Very frustrating as I'm in Wales and the lockdown seems to have been embraced. Hopefully it'll arrive early next week. Andy

Hi, Yes, checked the various threads on the forum, unfortunately it seems a common set of symptoms. So far have a new lambda sensor as that had been in 10 years and was covered in soot. No joy. Then replaced the TPS and the small harness (it was on offer), again no joy. Yesterday, tried looking at the fuel pump and wiring, have cleaned the earths in the engine bay, the plug at the fuel pump looked fine with clean contacts, fuses are fine. It's odd in that the pump primes, it turns over readily enough, fires, runs for a few seconds, just as if it's on the priming pressure and dies. The mass of other connections seem buried above the gearbox and would tax a gynaecologist to get to, at least via the engine bay

Thank you everyone, they can be incredibly frustrating little cars at times. Winter is going to be interesting Andy

Hi to all, I was wondering if I could pick some brains about what is 'normal'. I've got a 2011 SIgma 150 Roadsport which I tend to look after myself. Cambelt done professionally but all servicing is in house. Up to now all has been fine. In September I was driving along the A48 at Bridgend when the car just stopped running when I stopped at one of the major roundabouts. Not good being stuck in the outside lane of a fast A road. Pushed to the side and waited for the RAC. The engine would turn over, fire for about a second but not run. There was a spark, the fuel pump primes, the TPS was fine. After a few hours by the side of the road - a big thank you to Dave in Porthcawl for checking up on me, I got home on a flat bed. Since then have checked over repeatedly, it turns over, fires but doesn't run for more than 1 -2 sec. Have browsed the site and changed TPS and lambda to no effect. Earths cleaned, battery fully charged, new plugs 2 years ago (3k miles), inertia wotsit checked & bypassed. Checking the immobiliser today, it's the Sterling type with the dongle and loop around the lock. The LED does not illuminate at rest at all, on turning the key to the power on position it gives 1 flash then nothing, turning off it gives 1 flash then nothing at all. There is no steady light when in the starting position or flashing LED when the key is removed. I was just wondering if the collective experience of the elders would be that it's not working correctly and stuffed. If so any suggestions about what to do or where to go, would this be a job for a local electrician to sort? I am game to remove one after many years of dealing with 1970s Fiat electrics! Many thanks Andy

By the agricultural college, was in silver mx5. Sod's law in force, last day of leave, lovely autumn day and spent all day trying to get my Roadsport 150 to start. It had a brainfart last week and marooned my at Pyle for hours. Decompression needed. Usually be out in green and yellow (traditionally boring) 150, hey ho....

Hi, Yes spotted you, only just recovering from it! Bridgend to Aber & back via Black Mountain pass. Hot, sticky but great time, many Bewildebeasts out for a quiet time Andy

Selling 1 minator 14x6 wheel, not a set! Had to replace all of mine after a disagreement with the central reservation. As these were unfortunately out of production I had to source a second hand set. These came as 5. This is the spare of the set so never been used, I think it was rear mounted, I don't have a spare fitting so it just sits around in the garage. Has an unused Avon ZV3 from 2005 fitted if you feel really brave. Collection from Bridgend/Cardiff /Swansea area Andy

Hi, Yes, that was me. Just spent ages in a convoy coming down into Llandovery behind multiple motorhomes, very hot and frustrated. Was heading over to the Black Mountain road (A4069) then home. It's a 2010 Sigma 150 and for once running smoothly... Andy

Hi, Have a road use only RoadSport 150 - one of the fairly rare critters but it has the 14" wheels. Really would look at changing the tyres first if you still have the OEM Avon ZV3 fitted. Was one of the first things I changed after purchase, initially had the late lamented A021s which were like night and day. Could stop confidently and corner. Now have RainExpert 3 fitted while not as good as the A021 are still light years ahead of the Avons. Not a huge difference in power but never felt the need to upgrade the brakes for road use once the tyres were sorted Andy

Hi, Had my 2010 Sigma 150's belt replaced last year at Millwood because of the potch with the timing, would also recommend have the water pump or aux tensioner replaced as per other manufacturers (e.g. VAG). The tensioner seized up causing the water pump to leak. This needed another trip to have that replaced. I was chatting there and anecdotally they were getting a number back after the cambelt was replaced. The aux belt has to come off first obviously. All were about the same age and type. From what I understood the disruption of the change upset the custom built Caterham tensioner so that it constantly increased the aux belt tension putting lateral strain on the pump, ended up with a leak down the front of the block. The aux belt twanged like a violin string it was so tight. It's not a usual Ford Sigma part so doesn't figure on the Ford manual. All a bit of a pain Andy

Aww, but the they look so shiny! They take a really good polish, now like a set of round jackboots. I'm just impressed they lasted so long. Last year I picked up a 2011 MX5 with its original Yokohamas on & they were a mess, 6mm tread (6000 miles from new), deep splits all around the circumference. These seem pristine. ZV3 must be the tyre equivalent of the post nuclear war cockroach, indestructible! Will leave them on while it's laid up over the winter & get something softer. Suppose they may be of use if anyone wants them for drifting...

Hi, Collected the car from repairs and had have only now had a good look over it. The ZV3s have a load of depth left but the date of manufacture 2005! Think they'll be off pretty rapid - tempted to go back to the Uniroyals as they were good in summer & just not be a prat in the winter. Andy