mph

Tyres — here's Avon's own documentation. It says 22-27 HOT, which I've found tends to be 18psi cold. Avon Tyres Motorsport - Lotus Seven Club - 2021 Edition.pdf

Are you on 15" or 13" wheels? If the former, then the answer is swapping to the latter will vastly improve things. Everyone said that when I bought my car three years ago, and I took it with a pinch of salt. Until I made the swap and couldn't believe the difference 😂

Mine is a PPE 225 and I just run duct tape over the oil cooler on the road. Else it barely gets above 40º 🥶

Good to note @aerobod - near CYYC, thank you.

Nice one @Miker7, thank you. The ammeter in series is the sort of idea I was thinking of. I’d like to be able to “debug” the issue 😊

Spent six hours in the car today (to NHM and back) — the fuse blew twice on the M1 on the way down 😬 Slightly hairy coast across a couple of lanes to get to the hard shoulder. I put a 15 in the third time, and that lasted the rest of the day, including the dyno session. Both blows on the motorway were simply when cruising along. I have a 'Superlight' dashboard, with the silver toggle switches. Is the 'DCM' anything to do with those does any one know? If I stick a meter across that fuse, can I monitor load there? Electrical numpty* asking, apologies if question sounds daft 😂 Thanks folks! * be gentle

In the sump. I’m not sure why you’d want to take the temp from the tank. Surely the most important oil temp is where it’s being useful, ie the engine? Speaking as a layperson and not an engine specialist 😃

Interesting @BigCol — my car is dry sumped. Oil still gets down there though, and it definitely works 😂

PPE, when they were around (sad face) did mine, and it looks like the oil temp sender is in the drain plug.

Update. It wasn't the fuel pump fuse, and that has the correct rating in. All fuses are correct ratings. Just took me a while to marry up the diagrams in the manual to the actual fuse box 😂 The blowing fuse is O - "flasher unit/D.C.M" I did find a severed earth wire on my left cycle wing repeater, which I fixed. Dunno if that would affect things 🤔 On both occasions it's blown, I had the indicator on, and full beans. Hmm. This is gonna be a right pain to find the cause of, I bet.

Anyone know what 'D.C.M' is? (fuse O in the diagram)

The next thing to do is work out if it really is that fuse — and yes, if it is, fitting the correct fuse would be a good start 😃 How does a fuel pump become 'tired'? Less effective at delivering what's being asked of it?

Hmm. If I took the right hand side of figure 28 and rotated it 180º, then it would fit my fuse box and would be 'D', which would be the fuel pump. And a 15A fuse. Where I currently have a 10A, that's blown twice. Under full throttle… This is looking like a duck, walking like a duck, and quacking like a duck. This may be the ticket @Jonathan Kay — thanks for digging that out. I'll have to pull some fuses and see if that hypothesis stacks up. Thanks for the diagrams! --M

Hello folks, Twice now I've had my R400 Duratec cut out — completely dead — under hard acceleration. Pretty much the same scenario both times. Warmed up, headlights on, full throttle, and it dies instantly. 10A fuse, fourth up from the bottom, blows. I'm not sure what this fuse covers, apart from almost everything 😂 Interestingly, the immobiliser light flashes happily away to itself once I've stopped and the rest of the car is dead. I've no doubt every single fuse box is different, but on the off chance they're not (ho ho ho), here's a pic of mine — as mentioned, it's the fourth fuse up from the bottom. Given the intermittency of this, where do I even start to work out what could be causing the problem? 😬 All ideas and thoughts most graciously welcomed! Many thanks! --Mark

Yes, I had to go buy one at Brands Hatch last year when they had a low noise day and my R400 was anything but 😂 I was hitting 98db. They're a rip off for sure — but you can do better than S&C. They get them from Demon Tweeks, and we have a club discount with DT. So just ping them directly and save yourself a few quid.