pugwash

Whole new language required when you get to the diff!

It's a Pure Highway that I have too. It's pretty much a portable DAB radio modified for car use. I think it can even take batteries so as long as you have an aerial then it should do what you are looking for, but the Pure mag mount was not that cheap. Have you got a friendly auto radio place where you might be able to borrow one for a test? My alternative way of doing things is to use the iPhone as a music source in the 7 into personal earplugs. In the 7 I just use it for stored music. I have been experimenting with streaming music stations too but that does depend on having a broadband signal to the phone for it to maintain the program.

Hi Howard, I won't comment on fitting of radios in 7s, but have fitted a number of after market DAB radios in various cars. I have done several screen mounts but the tip that might be of use for you is regarding mag mount aerials. I bought one a few years ago to experiment with and it really sucks in the signal. It's a pure one with a pure after market radio adapter. It's currently stuck to the rear seat hinge in my range rover and does a fine job. Not tried this in the 7 as I I have a different approach to music but would guess a decent mag mount stuck almost anywhere on the roll bar (even pointing in behind the passenger seat) would give a good result, based on my experience. Mark.

Just read your post and had one of those doh! moments. I don't know how many times I have had mine off to nip up the adjuster. Your idea is simple but really effective. Thanks.

I guess you know this but just in case, the top two poppers should be the type that are "directional". So they don't just pop off if you lean on them.

I have same as Damo (SV). I loosely put the bolts in and then put the poppers on. Takes a bit of force to get them to pop. I then tighten the bolts. I also have the scuttle trim which I have to pull forward slightly to allow the poppers to seat.

Sm25t has a good point. I had a set of these. Fitted and pleased with the effect. Recently took back lights apart to fit carbon fibre housings to find the indicator ones were fine. The stop /tail side had overheated and gone black behind the bulb, no light reflected at all. Maybe I just did a cr*p job of my installation.

Iirc The build manual for the sigma suggests prefilling the heater if you have one. Apart from that I just filled mine up no problems at all. Non of this tilting stuff that the Ks seem to need.

Ned, i do do exactly what you suggested. Straps over each wheel and leave the winch cable attached as back up.

I started thinking epoxy but in the end I used the Watco water based concrete sealer. The one with the grey tint. This followed a previous thread on here and I blatmailed someone who had previously used it. i had 500sq feet to do so used 2 tins. Floor was 10 year old dusty concrete. I just gave it a brush and a vacuum over to get the worst dust off them poured from the tin and pushed it around with a broom. First coat really soaked into the concrete. Second coat flowed nicely over the top. Dries to leave a surface that feels like it is plastic coated. Eight months on, no lifting, I have jacked up cars on it, left cars parked on it for lengths of time, all good. Would recommend.

Peashooter sounds great on my sigma super sport SV. Quiet it is not!

Another vote for the full tonneau. I have trailered with full hood when it was wet once as a test but full tonneau seems to cover most requirements.

Mine arrived safely. Thanks Jonathan. Am considering fitting positions.

Paul, it's not just about the width, it's also about how you strap the car on. When trailer hunting for my SV I phoned BJ and asked the same question. They pointed out that to strap it down over the tyres, the strap ends go through the holes in the floor, generally slightly wider than the car to give you enough strap length to secure it. If the car was the same width as the trailer then there is a risk that you foul the rear wheel arches with the strap as you tighten it up. Of course I am sure other securing methods are available but just so you are aware. In the end I never found out as a good deal on a slightly different trailer came up so I grabbed it. Kev's trailer does sound good though! All the right bits.

The other thing to check is that the pipe or pipes going in to the catch tank don't go all the way to the bottom of the tank, otherwise as soon as you have anything in there you are bubbling through it and creating an oily mist which then vents through the lid.

I think I just tightened mine up by hand with a spanner!

Hi Peter, Also see the earlier thread CARBON FIBER HAND BRAKE LEVER ANYONE? iirc it was discussed there are two types of handbrake used, one with a rubber grip which just slid off and one with a moulded plastic grip which was glued on. The metal under my plastic grip was only roughly finished. Not sure about polar inertia but as I have an SV I have enough room for a polar bear so a few oz is not going to make any difference!

Hi Paul, i cant help specifically but i had the odd drip coming out of mine in about the same place. Turned out that things just needed tightening up a bit. I did not do the work, it was done by CC during a service but it has not dripped since. Engine / gearbox had been out and separated about 1000 miles previously. I have sigma with 5speed so completely different to yours but if things have been out recently for a refresh it could just need a torque up. Mark.

Ash, I don't know how old your current car is but when I assembled mine the whole handbrake level assembly has two different mounting positions, one a bit sticky up and one a bit more flat. Both functionally work fine, it was just a question of which bolt hole you used to mount it. It might be that yours has been built with the mechanism in the slightly more sticky up position. Sorry about the highly technical lexicon! Personally I built mine with the slightly more up position as I found it easier to get my hand around it that way, knowing I could adjust it down later if I needed to.

Duncan's point above is a good one. When I build my Supersport I did my best to follow the manual but iirc I ran out of thread connecting up the three way connector at the rear. Fortunately I noticed and did call the factory for advice. Unfortunately I cannot recall what they said or what I did!

Unless Caterham stuck them on and then peeled them off afterwards, mine did not have labels on it for the IVA. In 2012. Perhaps the rules have changed.

I sprayed two coats of Stoneguard onto mine.

Or drill them and bolt them on. They definitely don't come off then! Unless you want them to and then they are easy to remove.

Chris, I feel your frustration. Pressing the big red button for the first time was one of the highlights of my build. Sorry yours has not got there quite yet....but it will! Lots of good ideas above. You could unplug the two cables from the inertia switch and bridge them to check if you have a faulty switch (or just put a meter across the switch to test it). Not sure if you still have to disassemble the mail ECU plug to fit the wire for the change up light but can't do any harm to unplug and then replug the ECU just to make sure all the pins are fully seated. To unimmobilise my immobiliser I do need to push the little fob upwards slightly so the it is close enough to the sensor aerial, others have loosened it so it dangles down a bit. But if your dashboard light is doing what it is supposed to then that cannot be it. Hope you crack it soon!

They must have changed something as I have an aero filler cap circa 2012 and have never had a problem. I was expecting to have a problem as I had heard about the filling issues and even carry a funnel I bought when first got the car, but I have filled up in a number of different places here and in France and never had a problem. Where did you get your filler from? New old stock?