Smithy77

If you are on throttle bodies, it's a good idea to get the spring loaded version of the Rover TPS.

Any ideas in noise restrictions for Brands GP?

My poppers where held into the scuttle with self tapers. When I fit the aero I remove the poppers and refit them on top of the aero bracket with the same screws. The poppers then act like washers holding down the aero. When I switch back to the windscreen, I just refit the poppers. Simples

JV, will be interested to know how that goes

Would you fancy a swap with a silver aero cap?

JV, the short answer is yes! My dash was the original (I assume) from 15 years ago and was horribly dull and faded (with a brown haze/patina) with the carbon weaves blurring into one another. A good treatment of AG BJ really brought it back to life. I don't have a "before" pic unfortunately, but this was the result... Also works wonders on switches, light blocks and vinyl...

Have you tried rejuvenating before spending out on high cost re-coating/replacement? I've just used Auto Glym Bumper Gel on mine and they have come out looking like new.

There are some for sale on Facebook by Arnie

Well, Jonathan, I'm happy to report that temps (both oil and water, but more importantly water) behaved impeccably all day! Both seemed happy to sit at around the 80-85c mark all day long, both in the colder/wetter/pussy footing sessions and the harder dry sessions. (N.B. the temp guage under-reads by 5-10c at this sort of temp)All in all, very pleased that my own version of the OEM cooling system works very well, and as I've said, I now have the advantage of an accessible thermostat. I'm so happy with it in fact, I'll even put my cock on the block and go on record by saying that I'll do this mod on any future K-series I own! So fingers crossed, I shan't be bothering you with anymore K-cooling threads from me

Ian x2, thanks for the input. The female thread of the tensioner is not magnetic so assume it's aluminium, and the bolt conveniently has 10.9 stamped on the head - grade?

Andrew, thanks also for your digging, much appreciated. I would agree with your conclusion. So, the pulley is off and I can confirm the bolt thread is M8x1.25. It's a flattened cap head type bolt with a 22mm dia. head to clamp the inner part of the bearing. Suggestions on torque setting?

Noble effort Jonathan, thanks for the help. I'll remove the bolt and let you know the size.

Thanks Jonathan

I believe it is a Rover tensioner for the PAS pump

Thanks for that Darren. Unfortunately, that guide doesn't make sense to me at all when it come to fitting the alloy idler pulley: From reading that, it sounds like the bearing is left on the tensioner mechanism and the pulley is fitted over the bearing with it in place. No mention of torque setting for the center bolt holding the bearing to the tensioner mechanism. But the pulley has a flange on the rear face which the bearing is pressed up against. Surely, the bearing needs to be fitted to the pulley first, by pressing it in from the front on the pulley, fit the circlip from the front, and then bolt the pulley/bearing assembly to the tensioner mechanism?? If anyone could clarify (and confirm the torque setting for the centre pulley bolt) it would be much appreciated. New bearing arrives tomorrow and track day on Saturday. Thanks